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Bob's got a 60 rear axle.
So, stock FJ60 master :)
 
Update

Spent some time at Dirtgypy's this week and we successfully got his diesel started. That's going to be a fun truck. I did get a day to myself and started in on the 14bolt. The hubs are separated from the drums and I'm playing with the idea of replacing bearings.

Andy, what application did you search for at autozone to get your bearings?

To go any further I finally had to drain it.

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Once drained I took out the carrier and the pinion. There was a snapped bolt on the pinion but it didn't put up any fuss when I could get some vice-grips on it.

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Then I started cutting and grinding. The spring perches didn't cause me much grief either. I also trimmed the lower lip down to about the lowest bolt line. I'll fill in that bolt hole and make a mount somewhere else for the lowest hole. That took me a while since I smoothed out the lip and contoured it up to the tubes. I really wanted to shave it and remove some ring gear but with too many things going on I'll have to attempt that at a later time. At least for now there is no lip to get snagged on, just a smooth bottom to slide over rocks on.

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So I took a perfectly good axle and cut it up. This is where I stopped. I'm thinking of calling six states locally to see if they have any driveshaft tube that I could use to insert in the tubes to help line it up. I'll need a tube with OD ~2.75-2.80. I need to get another battery for my digital calipers to make sure I was reading that right.

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Ruffstuff sent out the right and missing parts and I sent back what needed to be returned. I also finally have a lead on some 17" rims that I hope to pick up this weekend. Used tires that I want are hard to find so I'm thinking I'll have to pony up for some new ones. Been doing research on that.
 
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I think on the application I used 1980 3/4 ton pick up with the bigger engine. They will ask if it has the 10.5 inch ring gear and that's the one you want.

I think 1 ton will work as well even though that's a Dana70, but the 14b and Dana70 use the same bearings in the hub. I want to say the bearings were $16 each.

Looks good-going to cut mine next week. Luke said he would turn some tube down to the right diameter.
 
Did your C&C hubs have a retaining clip for the outer bearing located on the inside of the hub meaning you have to access it from the back side? How did you get that out if you did have one? The ol' screw driver picking ain't getting me anywhere.

BTW thanks for the application, I just looked them up and they are very reasonably priced. I think I'll do my diff bearings too since those are cheap.
 
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Did your C&C hubs have a retaining clip for the outer bearing located on the inside of the hub meaning you have to access it from the back side? How did you get that out if you did have one? The ol' screw driver picking ain't getting me anywhere.

BTW thanks for the application, I just looked them up and they are very reasonably priced. I think I'll do my diff bearings too since those are cheap.


All the 14bff hubs have that inner clip. There is no other way to get the outer bearing out. I just pinched the clip hooks together with a needle nose and it came right out.

When you put the bearing back in, dont forget the cone-it has to be in there first because you can't fit it from the front.

Also drive in the outer race to just past the clip grove, fit the clip and back the race up to the clip.

Curious what style of spindle nuts you have. Do you have the one with the keyway and clip or the 2 stacked nuts similar to Toyota? I thought the key way and clip thing was great and super easy to use.
 
I'll hunt for a better set of needle nose.

Yes I have the keyway style nut and I agree it does look easy to set up and not loosen accidently like I've had with my cruiser front end.
 
Found my rims and at a good price. They're used and I'm not sure on the brand but they are 17 x 10 with a backspacing of 4.5". I'm thinking of removing the button heads (just pressed in), tapping the holes and get some scrape rings made to protect the lip of the rim. Not sure if I'd prefer steel, aluminum or some kind of high density plastic as the material for a scrape ring, any opinions? In the future I plan to get some inner air bladders for a double bead lock.

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Wheel adapters that go from 6 to 8 lug. They are a two-piece adapter. Looking at having these guys make me a set, not sure on the price yet.

motorsport-tech.com/wheel_adapters

That way, when you part out your rig I'll grab your D60 front end. :p

EDIT: removed link because I am disappointed with their customer service and don't recommend using them.
 
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are you sure about 2 pieces adapters Mike .? there is no other option in the 60 series front hub .. some sort of re fab .. ?
 
I'll also need the width from the adapters to match the 14 bolt rear. Like I did for my current spacers I'll do the maintenance of rechecking/re torquing frequently up front and then as needed. If I do the maintenance, I don't see me having a problem with them.
 
don't get me wrong Mike .. and long time wheel spacers user .. and 0 issues with 'em .. ( also not that much maintenance on 'em ) but puting 2 pieces wheel spacers don't make me feel ( well actually it's not my 60 at all .. ) comfy about that .. and just wonder if there is no other option for 'em keeping in mind your mind and craftmanship ..
 
the 8 lug and 6 lug patterns have too much overlap to make a one piece adapter.
 
the 8 lug and 6 lug patterns have too much overlap to make a one piece adapter.

I was thinking more some sort of new 8 lugs hub .? ( or whatever it's the name of the piece in the front axle where the wheel studs are )
 
I was thinking more some sort of new 8 lugs hub .? ( or whatever it's the name of the piece in the front axle where the wheel studs are )

I would think that machining new hubs would cost more than most of this build ;)

Cool, but damn, what a single application!
 
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