No doubt ......
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If you're turning off the motor @ 300 deg., that is plenty. By those temps the oil is cooled enough so there is no cokeing effect.
Also, if the seals are bad on the turbo, the temp in which you kill the motor really has no relevance.
- Thread starter
- #504
weekly update
Guess what today is... it's my year aniversary of when I started this thread!! Not to bad, I took a completely stock fj60 and basically took it down to the frame and body and built it up from there. Sure there is more left to do but it's come along way already considering that this is my first major build and I'm building it all myself including small parts like brackets from scratch, doing it outside regardless the season, work a full time job, have kids to raise, am trying out systems that never came off a showroom floor together, and am still happily married! I've been driving it for several months working out the bugs and improving parts.
Anyways, never hurts to remember the past to motivate for the future. This break I had a dumba$$ moment, let me explain. My symptoms were low boost and kind of a laggy turbo so I figured I needed to take the intercooler out for a cleaning. I called a couple places and once I found a place that would clean the intercooler it was only a flush so I did my research online and concluded that I could do it myself and save the $75 they wanted. It came out of the rig just fine and I mixed up some degreaser solution in hot water to put in the intercooler. While I let it sit I started taking other parts of the intake system apart.
Here is the tube from the turbo to the intercooler. You can see the swirl the turbo does to the airflow but the important part is that the tube wasn't juicy.
This is the intake side of the intercooler. Moist but not bad really.
The output side was juicy and you can see the oil puddling.
I wiped it up and mixed up my solution of 303 aerospace cleaner in hot water to pour into the intercooler.
To agitate I taped up the ends and shook it every 20mins or so.
The tube connecting the intercooler to the intake manifold. It too was a little wet.
Inside of the same tube dirty.
Here's the clincher. If oil was getting by the seals due to shutting off the turbo too hot then the compressor wheel and housing would show it. It was clean as a bell just like I installed it so I'll have to agree with Fred that turning off the turbo @ 300F wasn't causing the problem.
This hose connects the turbo output to the tube in the first pic. I never got it completely clean the first time but it looked like debris was getting in. The compressor wheel's fin edges did show a tiny bit of wear and I traced that to a leak in the fitting I put together to mate the 4" intake to a 3" hose. I resealed that and cleaned out this hose.
All of this while the intercooler was still soaking. I emptied the solution and it was clear. I knew it wasn't that clean in there so I pulled out the
parts cleaner and sloshed some gasoline around inside. I did that twice and it pulled out the oil but no globs or massively dirty gas came out. I put in some soapy water and just as I grabbed the hose to flush it out I notice the corner of something pink inside the inlet side of the intercooler. I grabbed something to pick at it and this started to come up.
I thought how in the world did this get in there. Then I pulled it all the way out and noticed what character was on it. Dora the explorer. This was a shirt my wife had cut up for rag use and I had put it in the opening to keep stuff from getting inside. So this thing has been in my intercooler blocking at least half of the passages and it's been in there ever since I put the intercooler in the rig so I've always driven with it.
At least I found a smoking gun. Let it dry, put it all back together and found myself excited to see what the difference would be. I started it up and it idled reaaally low so I had to adjust the idle. I was definitely getting more air into the cylinders now. Since I was at the injection pump I might as well turn it up a little so that's what I did. Up to 3/4 turn on the full power, 1/4 turn on the star wheel and reset the idle. I'm going conservative so I don't spew out smoke. Turbo response was better and smoother now and the engine feels more lively. I know I'll turn it up some more but it sure gave me a smile on my face.
Since I felt like a dumba$$ now was the perfect time to do something stupid. I build a quick ramp out of stacking wood and a pair of 2x12s I had laying around so I could get some measurements for a front shaft. It was getting dark outside so the pics aren't all that great. I ordered a downturn for the exhaust last week so I'll clean off the butt stain once I get that installed to redirect the exhaust flow.
Stuffs awesome, if only I didn't need to turn my tire when I wheel. I have about an inch left in shock uptravel so this should be about as far as I want it to stuff so the lip will eventually be trimmed.
The rear clears just fine. I'll be dropping the bump stops to keep it from going much higher.
In a real situation I will be able to drop the front more. The shackle angle isn't even verticle yet and I've got room for the shocks to let out.
Other side
Shock contacts the exhaust so I might need to build in a little more hump at that point in the exhaust but the rear shock does clear the spring plate.
Guess what today is... it's my year aniversary of when I started this thread!! Not to bad, I took a completely stock fj60 and basically took it down to the frame and body and built it up from there. Sure there is more left to do but it's come along way already considering that this is my first major build and I'm building it all myself including small parts like brackets from scratch, doing it outside regardless the season, work a full time job, have kids to raise, am trying out systems that never came off a showroom floor together, and am still happily married! I've been driving it for several months working out the bugs and improving parts.
Anyways, never hurts to remember the past to motivate for the future. This break I had a dumba$$ moment, let me explain. My symptoms were low boost and kind of a laggy turbo so I figured I needed to take the intercooler out for a cleaning. I called a couple places and once I found a place that would clean the intercooler it was only a flush so I did my research online and concluded that I could do it myself and save the $75 they wanted. It came out of the rig just fine and I mixed up some degreaser solution in hot water to put in the intercooler. While I let it sit I started taking other parts of the intake system apart.
Here is the tube from the turbo to the intercooler. You can see the swirl the turbo does to the airflow but the important part is that the tube wasn't juicy.
This is the intake side of the intercooler. Moist but not bad really.
The output side was juicy and you can see the oil puddling.
I wiped it up and mixed up my solution of 303 aerospace cleaner in hot water to pour into the intercooler.
To agitate I taped up the ends and shook it every 20mins or so.
The tube connecting the intercooler to the intake manifold. It too was a little wet.
Inside of the same tube dirty.
Here's the clincher. If oil was getting by the seals due to shutting off the turbo too hot then the compressor wheel and housing would show it. It was clean as a bell just like I installed it so I'll have to agree with Fred that turning off the turbo @ 300F wasn't causing the problem.
This hose connects the turbo output to the tube in the first pic. I never got it completely clean the first time but it looked like debris was getting in. The compressor wheel's fin edges did show a tiny bit of wear and I traced that to a leak in the fitting I put together to mate the 4" intake to a 3" hose. I resealed that and cleaned out this hose.
All of this while the intercooler was still soaking. I emptied the solution and it was clear. I knew it wasn't that clean in there so I pulled out the
parts cleaner and sloshed some gasoline around inside. I did that twice and it pulled out the oil but no globs or massively dirty gas came out. I put in some soapy water and just as I grabbed the hose to flush it out I notice the corner of something pink inside the inlet side of the intercooler. I grabbed something to pick at it and this started to come up.
I thought how in the world did this get in there. Then I pulled it all the way out and noticed what character was on it. Dora the explorer. This was a shirt my wife had cut up for rag use and I had put it in the opening to keep stuff from getting inside. So this thing has been in my intercooler blocking at least half of the passages and it's been in there ever since I put the intercooler in the rig so I've always driven with it.
At least I found a smoking gun. Let it dry, put it all back together and found myself excited to see what the difference would be. I started it up and it idled reaaally low so I had to adjust the idle. I was definitely getting more air into the cylinders now. Since I was at the injection pump I might as well turn it up a little so that's what I did. Up to 3/4 turn on the full power, 1/4 turn on the star wheel and reset the idle. I'm going conservative so I don't spew out smoke. Turbo response was better and smoother now and the engine feels more lively. I know I'll turn it up some more but it sure gave me a smile on my face.
Since I felt like a dumba$$ now was the perfect time to do something stupid. I build a quick ramp out of stacking wood and a pair of 2x12s I had laying around so I could get some measurements for a front shaft. It was getting dark outside so the pics aren't all that great. I ordered a downturn for the exhaust last week so I'll clean off the butt stain once I get that installed to redirect the exhaust flow.
Stuffs awesome, if only I didn't need to turn my tire when I wheel. I have about an inch left in shock uptravel so this should be about as far as I want it to stuff so the lip will eventually be trimmed.
The rear clears just fine. I'll be dropping the bump stops to keep it from going much higher.
In a real situation I will be able to drop the front more. The shackle angle isn't even verticle yet and I've got room for the shocks to let out.
Other side
Shock contacts the exhaust so I might need to build in a little more hump at that point in the exhaust but the rear shock does clear the spring plate.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #505
Two more:
Found this and felt inspired so I started to build my own out of the two front shafts I have.
cheap long travel driveshaft - Pirate4x4.Com Bulletin Board
I was curious how the front protector was fastened on the shaft so I did some cutting to find out. Turns out the protection cover is just pressed on.
I cut the female slip off the other yoke and used the longer male spline (come on now this is techincal) to line them up.
Lined up the male spline in a jig.
I started layin' in the weld. I built it up by welding, rotate, welding, rotate, until I filled it in so that I could grind down the finish.
These are now the parts I have to work with and that's as far as I got on the front driveshaft. There was a lot of lining up, rechecking, and cleaning weld balls out of the splines so that's what took up my time. There is a toyota trails article about DANA tube found at NAPA that can be used to sleave the toyota tube. If I can find the tube that will allow me to adjust the shaft to the length I'll need and sleave it for strength. Do I know if this will hold up? I have no idea but I'm hoping it will buy me time to have a one build for me. 4wd will only be used on the trail so if it breaks I'll be going slow. I might as well give it a try since I'm building a bunch of other stuff on the rig.
Found this and felt inspired so I started to build my own out of the two front shafts I have.
cheap long travel driveshaft - Pirate4x4.Com Bulletin Board
I was curious how the front protector was fastened on the shaft so I did some cutting to find out. Turns out the protection cover is just pressed on.
I cut the female slip off the other yoke and used the longer male spline (come on now this is techincal) to line them up.
Lined up the male spline in a jig.
I started layin' in the weld. I built it up by welding, rotate, welding, rotate, until I filled it in so that I could grind down the finish.
These are now the parts I have to work with and that's as far as I got on the front driveshaft. There was a lot of lining up, rechecking, and cleaning weld balls out of the splines so that's what took up my time. There is a toyota trails article about DANA tube found at NAPA that can be used to sleave the toyota tube. If I can find the tube that will allow me to adjust the shaft to the length I'll need and sleave it for strength. Do I know if this will hold up? I have no idea but I'm hoping it will buy me time to have a one build for me. 4wd will only be used on the trail so if it breaks I'll be going slow. I might as well give it a try since I'm building a bunch of other stuff on the rig.
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Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
One expresion ..
You are getting really great flex .. and building your own long spline .. well .. nice !
You are getting really great flex .. and building your own long spline .. well .. nice !
I'm glad it was not Diego stuffed into the intercooler.....that could have got ugly.
Great build and props to your wife for being a team player allowing you this year of creativity and taking on the additional childcare so you could achieve this concept!
Believe me, I know what it's like Mike.
Happy Fathers Day!
john
Great build and props to your wife for being a team player allowing you this year of creativity and taking on the additional childcare so you could achieve this concept!
Believe me, I know what it's like Mike.
Happy Fathers Day!
john
What a build!
Mike,
This is an awsome effort: the build, documentation, innovation, committment, everything. I am sitting in the hospital with my kid and have read the entire thing, start to finish. Great job!
My favorite line from the entire thread that pretty much sums things up is a quote from you in post 485:
"I brought a couple of projects with me and the very next day I started on the radiator fan."
This is outstanding. Keep up the good work and thanks for the excellent write up and photos for those of us who prefer picture books.
Mike,
This is an awsome effort: the build, documentation, innovation, committment, everything. I am sitting in the hospital with my kid and have read the entire thing, start to finish. Great job!
My favorite line from the entire thread that pretty much sums things up is a quote from you in post 485:
"I brought a couple of projects with me and the very next day I started on the radiator fan."
This is outstanding. Keep up the good work and thanks for the excellent write up and photos for those of us who prefer picture books.
- Thread starter
- #509
Lol... Out of several child's charaters I thought it was funny that Dora was exploring the inside of my intercooler. Of course she could say that I pushed her in. I am greatful for my wife to allow me the time it takes, she's been a great support and a good sport whenever I come in and drag her outside to show her the next best thing that I came up with. BTW when are you showing up in oregon?
Mike,
This is an awsome effort: the build, documentation, innovation, committment, everything. I am sitting in the hospital with my kid and have read the entire thing, start to finish. Great job!
My favorite line from the entire thread that pretty much sums things up is a quote from you in post 485:
"I brought a couple of projects with me and the very next day I started on the radiator fan."
This is outstanding. Keep up the good work and thanks for the excellent write up and photos for those of us who prefer picture books.
Thanks for taking the time to go through 17 pages! Hope your daugther gets better.
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Wow, all that work in 1 year! I've only been working on mine for 4 years now, and I still haven't driven it.
I love the work that you do. Did Dora mention how clean the intercooler is now?
I love the work that you do. Did Dora mention how clean the intercooler is now?
- Thread starter
- #511
LoL, the turbo does build boost quicker now when I've got the t.converter locked up then it did before with Dora hanging out. You know, this episode just may have named my cruiser. Maybe I need to call it Dora the explorer. No worries, I won't be sporting any Dora stickers.
You've had a bigger non-cruiser related challenge than I so you have the right to take a little longer. I think it's great that you keep pluging away on that 40, plus you are so close now. I know for me having the project keeps my mine a little sharper and something to look forward to.
- Joined
- Apr 4, 2006
- Threads
- 162
- Messages
- 4,044
- Location
- Hillsboro, OR
- Website
- www.cascadecruisers.com
no doubt about it... your cruiser is now Dora. 
"I won't be sporting any Dora stickers. "
don't be too sure of that.... see you soon
clint
don't be too sure of that.... see you soon
clint
Uh-oh... maybe I'll be driving the car to the cruiser meeting next week instead of taking the 60 just in case someone decides to sticker it for me.
This guys looks like he might do something.
Werd...
Sticker is being made as we speak...
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Creepy...
Nevermind... Cancelled sticker order after seeing this...
Nevermind... Cancelled sticker order after seeing this...
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- Thread starter
- #518
weekly update
I did some more ordering last week and one of the parts that came in was my downturn. Didn't need it to be chrome but that's all I found. I moved the baffle so that it spans between the downturn and the exhaust. I just quickly put it on but plan on finalizing it later.
I had a hard time getting the male spline to slide in and out of the female so I smoothed the first set of splines and removed the second set of splines. It slid in and out fine after that. The left mark is where I wanted ride height to be and the right mark was right before the shaft would hit the cap on the yoke. That cap did pop out eariler so I tacked it back on to help keep the muck out. I determined travel by ramping it and decided I wanted more slip when extending the driveshaft due to the shackle angles I was seeing (it is going to allow the axle to travel forward more than backwards). It will give me about 8-9" of total slip travel with about 6" of it for extention.
Called NAPA like the toyota trails article did and they didn't know anything so I called the six states distributers that was nearby and they had something. The toyota tube was 2.557 OD and they had a 2.75 tube with a .083 wall making that 2.667 ID. I measured that I needed 12" and it cost me $8. If the shaft holds that makes it a $50 drive shaft since I bought an earlier fj60 shaft for the DC joint and had the regular one that came on my rig.
I cut and cleaned up the tubes on the two pieces.
Tubes slid in no problems but weren't loose.
I didn't trust some of the surfaces I had to give me a level reading so I ended up using a piece of straight angle iron to get the yokes phased.
From there I tacked it, tested it on the rig and found I needed just a little more length on the tube so I slid them out just a tad and welded it up. I used the 85' axle side yoke so the bolt pattern was the same but the tcase pattern was different.
The nice thing about the flanges is that it's hubcentric meaning it centers on lip on the yoke and hole on the flange so I rotated it, marked and drilled holes. I marked it like this and then drilled it separately.
I took time to get the holes the right size so I could use my studs again, got it all together and I couldn't find where I put the nuts. After looking for a while with no luck I ran to the hardware store and grabbed some fine grade 8s. I drove out the studs and put the shaft on and used my new hardware. Drove up the ramp to test extention and 4wd. Locker works good and I got another foot up my ramp. I still have plenty of travel on the slip.
This is stuff on my shock travel. The tire is being limited by the fender right now so I will drop the bumpstops to this point and trim the fenders.
I have 1/8" clearance between the leaf pack and the tie rod. I was thinking about adding one more leaf but after seeing this I think I'll stay with the slight slinkbug appearance. I do tow with this so my stingbug stance is useful.
I drove around the yard a little with the front engaged and left a few marks on the lawn. I told my wife that it was just like arrating it for root stimulation. I don't think she bought it. I didn't try taking the shaft up to speed so I don't know if or how bad it will vibrate but I'll try it out soon. Time for more fender trimming and getting my linkage on my shifters dialed in.
I did some more ordering last week and one of the parts that came in was my downturn. Didn't need it to be chrome but that's all I found. I moved the baffle so that it spans between the downturn and the exhaust. I just quickly put it on but plan on finalizing it later.
I had a hard time getting the male spline to slide in and out of the female so I smoothed the first set of splines and removed the second set of splines. It slid in and out fine after that. The left mark is where I wanted ride height to be and the right mark was right before the shaft would hit the cap on the yoke. That cap did pop out eariler so I tacked it back on to help keep the muck out. I determined travel by ramping it and decided I wanted more slip when extending the driveshaft due to the shackle angles I was seeing (it is going to allow the axle to travel forward more than backwards). It will give me about 8-9" of total slip travel with about 6" of it for extention.
Called NAPA like the toyota trails article did and they didn't know anything so I called the six states distributers that was nearby and they had something. The toyota tube was 2.557 OD and they had a 2.75 tube with a .083 wall making that 2.667 ID. I measured that I needed 12" and it cost me $8. If the shaft holds that makes it a $50 drive shaft since I bought an earlier fj60 shaft for the DC joint and had the regular one that came on my rig.
I cut and cleaned up the tubes on the two pieces.
Tubes slid in no problems but weren't loose.
I didn't trust some of the surfaces I had to give me a level reading so I ended up using a piece of straight angle iron to get the yokes phased.
From there I tacked it, tested it on the rig and found I needed just a little more length on the tube so I slid them out just a tad and welded it up. I used the 85' axle side yoke so the bolt pattern was the same but the tcase pattern was different.
The nice thing about the flanges is that it's hubcentric meaning it centers on lip on the yoke and hole on the flange so I rotated it, marked and drilled holes. I marked it like this and then drilled it separately.
I took time to get the holes the right size so I could use my studs again, got it all together and I couldn't find where I put the nuts. After looking for a while with no luck I ran to the hardware store and grabbed some fine grade 8s. I drove out the studs and put the shaft on and used my new hardware. Drove up the
ramp to test extention and 4wd. Locker works good and I got another foot up my ramp. I still have plenty of travel on the slip.
This is stuff on my shock travel. The tire is being limited by the fender right now so I will drop the bumpstops to this point and trim the fenders.
I have 1/8" clearance between the leaf pack and the tie rod. I was thinking about adding one more leaf but after seeing this I think I'll stay with the slight slinkbug appearance. I do tow with this so my stingbug stance is useful.
I drove around the yard a little with the front engaged and left a few marks on the lawn. I told my wife that it was just like arrating it for root stimulation. I don't think she bought it. I didn't try taking the shaft up to speed so I don't know if or how bad it will vibrate but I'll try it out soon. Time for more fender trimming and getting my linkage on my shifters dialed in.
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Nice excuse........core arration(sic)...
I'll have to remember that one.
I just buried my 60 @ the river while swimming my dogs.
Time to rebuild my front axle and get back to 4 wheel drive....
glad you are making progress!!
john
I'll have to remember that one.
I just buried my 60 @ the river while swimming my dogs.
Time to rebuild my front axle and get back to 4 wheel drive....
glad you are making progress!!
john
Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
I maybe be more carefull with the compresion travel of the fron DS with shackle reversal due to the leng of your shackles and the softness of your springs ..