does your tr rub when you turn left to right vise versa, i know you got some clearance but make sue thats turned both ways
looks good
looks good
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- Thread starter
- #522
At ride height I get no rubbing turning left or right and that's without the steering stops back on the axle yet. Now when stuffing the tire that's a different story. That will require more trimming, something I planned on anyways.
- Thread starter
- #523
weekly update
Just worked on a few little things last break. I lost a day replacing all the hard metal lines on an older toyota Camry from Ohio. Her brake lines had rusted through and was pissing on the ground every time she stepped on the brakes. My hat is off to you guys who have to work on "rust-belt" vehicles, it was no fun.
I ordered a newer water temp sender to work with my spal controller. This was pretty cheap and I like the screw-on wire connection instead of the slip-on that comes on these 4bts. I didn't get a chance to re-set my controller yet but the cruiser temp gauge is reading better. Before if it made it 1/4" up the bar part on the gauge it was over 200F. Now it's just shy of the middle at 190F. With a couple of hot days it will be easy to get the controller set up since on cold days it's harder to get the engine hot.
I did some research and decided that the intelligent solenoid from National Luna was what I wanted to charge and isolate my dual batteries. It's mostly aimed toward the expedition crowd who need their stuff dependable when out in the middle of no where for long periods of time. The wiring challenge I have is that I need to run 12v for the vehicle system and then want to be able to hook up in series (24v) for the ready welder for trail repairs. From a couple people I briefly chatted with it seems the best way will be a system of disconnecting. I've got some ideas and need to get to a welding store to grab some wire and see what kind of connectors they have.
I worked on my shifter linkages. A group of wheelers will be at the local stomping grounds and I'm planning on meeting them out there to do a little wheeling this weekend. This is the 2-4wd linkage. I made it out of thicker material since I needed to put a bend in it for clearance and out of my three levers, this one shifts the easiest. I played with the shifters and it will get me by for now.
I painted both drive shafts (you can see part of the front in the pic above) and a few other parts while I was underneath. I must admit, having a ramp to flex on in the work area is helpful. I checked for clearance and found my rear tires do rub on the body mounts.
So I cut out a piece for additional clearance. I found that there is a point of diminishing returns in trying to get my rear tires to stuff much more. The leaves contact the frame in two places and the shock finally contacts the spring plate along with fender contact. I worked on bump stops but my first round was greatly underestimated so it was back to the drawing table to take another stab.
These are the way-to-short front extensions.
Here are two pics of stuff and droop from a different angle when I was looking for clearances.
More than enough travel on my extended brake hose going to the axle.
Then I had a little distraction curious in what I was doing.
I was looking in my scrap pile for something to extend the bump stops with and got the urge to clean up so I started getting ready for a metal run. My wife was happy about that one.
I conveniently ran out of wire and steam while working on the rear stops at the same time so that ended my break.
I'm going to try and get the temp sender programmed, finish my bump stops, and finish sealing up the rear quarters before the wheeling trip. Hoping to have a few wheeling pics next week.
Just worked on a few little things last break. I lost a day replacing all the hard metal lines on an older toyota Camry from Ohio. Her brake lines had rusted through and was pissing on the ground every time she stepped on the brakes. My hat is off to you guys who have to work on "rust-belt" vehicles, it was no fun.
I ordered a newer water temp sender to work with my spal controller. This was pretty cheap and I like the screw-on wire connection instead of the slip-on that comes on these 4bts. I didn't get a chance to re-set my controller yet but the cruiser temp gauge is reading better. Before if it made it 1/4" up the bar part on the gauge it was over 200F. Now it's just shy of the middle at 190F. With a couple of hot days it will be easy to get the controller set up since on cold days it's harder to get the engine hot.
I did some research and decided that the intelligent solenoid from National Luna was what I wanted to charge and isolate my dual batteries. It's mostly aimed toward the expedition crowd who need their stuff dependable when out in the middle of no where for long periods of time. The wiring challenge I have is that I need to run 12v for the vehicle system and then want to be able to hook up in series (24v) for the ready welder for trail repairs. From a couple people I briefly chatted with it seems the best way will be a system of disconnecting. I've got some ideas and need to get to a welding store to grab some wire and see what kind of connectors they have.
I worked on my shifter linkages. A group of wheelers will be at the local stomping grounds and I'm planning on meeting them out there to do a little wheeling this weekend. This is the 2-4wd linkage. I made it out of thicker material since I needed to put a bend in it for clearance and out of my three levers, this one shifts the easiest. I played with the shifters and it will get me by for now.
I painted both drive shafts (you can see part of the front in the pic above) and a few other parts while I was underneath. I must admit, having a ramp to flex on in the work area is helpful. I checked for clearance and found my rear tires do rub on the body mounts.
So I cut out a piece for additional clearance. I found that there is a point of diminishing returns in trying to get my rear tires to stuff much more. The leaves contact the frame in two places and the shock finally contacts the spring plate along with fender contact. I worked on bump stops but my first round was greatly underestimated so it was back to the drawing table to take another stab.
These are the way-to-short front extensions.
Here are two pics of stuff and droop from a different angle when I was looking for clearances.
More than enough travel on my extended brake hose going to the axle.
Then I had a little distraction curious in what I was doing.
I was looking in my scrap pile for something to extend the bump stops with and got the urge to clean up so I started getting ready for a metal run. My wife was happy about that one.
I conveniently ran out of wire and steam while working on the rear stops at the same time so that ended my break.
I'm going to try and get the temp sender programmed, finish my bump stops, and finish sealing up the rear quarters before the wheeling trip. Hoping to have a few wheeling pics next week.
Last edited:
- Joined
- Apr 4, 2006
- Threads
- 162
- Messages
- 4,044
- Location
- Hillsboro, OR
- Website
- www.cascadecruisers.com
wish I could join you guys this weekend but I'll be at my daughter's soccer tourny this weekend. Have fun and bring your camera!
- Thread starter
- #526
Filled up today and got 18.6mpg on half a tank. It's a little easier to stomach filling half a tank instead of a full tank. I did drive a little more judiciously this tank. The goal is mid 20s so I've got more tuning to do. Still, not bad for fat tires. Hate to see what the 2F would be getting with my current setup.
You just reminded me that I still need to make bump stops!
Looking good.
Looking good.
- Thread starter
- #529
weekly update
These are the rear bump stops. They did get tested and as far as I could tell kept the tire from rubbing anything (I was mostly focused on the front tires rubbing on stuff.
I did some more pump tweaking adding more timing, 1/2 turn more on the star wheel, turning the AFC diaphragm more, and added 1/4 more turn on the full power screw. It idles faster, has good power, and is smoother. I'll have to drive it around a little to see how it goes. I shifted gears a little and started making some housings for the rear speakers.
I wanted to mount them up high to get them out of the storage area so they won't be useless on loaded trips. I'm going to put them up here after I get them cleaned up and painted.
So I finally got out to wheel it and see what it's like. Obvious fixes are trimming on the front to get those tires to turn and stuff. I also wasn't happy with the tcase shifters. They work but aren't easy to use so I'll be reworking those to make them easier to shift and engage. The best way ended up being to turn off the engine, shift whatever lever, start and go. I aired down to 18psi up front and 15psi out back. I'll try lower next time but I had plenty of traction. I didn't get to try out stupid low but I did play around with the tconverter locked and unlocked in 4wd-low. It feels like a manual meaning it lurches when you put on the throttle. With more experience in this rig I'll have the left foot brake action worked out. In all I'm excited to see what I'll be able to do with a little more body and underbelly protection. Enough already, here are the pics.
These are the rear bump stops. They did get tested and as far as I could tell kept the tire from rubbing anything (I was mostly focused on the front tires rubbing on stuff.
I did some more pump tweaking adding more timing, 1/2 turn more on the star wheel, turning the AFC diaphragm more, and added 1/4 more turn on the full power screw. It idles faster, has good power, and is smoother. I'll have to drive it around a little to see how it goes. I shifted gears a little and started making some housings for the rear speakers.
I wanted to mount them up high to get them out of the storage area so they won't be useless on loaded trips. I'm going to put them up here after I get them cleaned up and painted.
So I finally got out to wheel it and see what it's like. Obvious fixes are trimming on the front to get those tires to turn and stuff. I also wasn't happy with the tcase shifters. They work but aren't easy to use so I'll be reworking those to make them easier to shift and engage. The best way ended up being to turn off the engine, shift whatever lever, start and go. I aired down to 18psi up front and 15psi out back. I'll try lower next time but I had plenty of traction. I didn't get to try out stupid low but I did play around with the tconverter locked and unlocked in 4wd-low. It feels like a manual meaning it lurches when you put on the throttle. With more experience in this rig I'll have the left foot brake action worked out. In all I'm excited to see what I'll be able to do with a little more body and underbelly protection. Enough already, here are the pics.
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So sweet and all that in 365 days!!
Hats off to you!!!!
I could care less about stereo in my rig, but I gave in about a year ago.
I am running a Scion XB head unit for the sounds in my 60.
Nice unit, Ipod and satellite compatible and it was only $50.00 on Ebay.
Coupled with some Infinity speakers in the doors, I can jam out as I wheel.
Happy Fourth of July to you and yours!!!
john
Hats off to you!!!!
I could care less about stereo in my rig, but I gave in about a year ago.
I am running a Scion XB head unit for the sounds in my 60.
Nice unit, Ipod and satellite compatible and it was only $50.00 on Ebay.
Coupled with some Infinity speakers in the doors, I can jam out as I wheel.
Happy Fourth of July to you and yours!!!
john
- Joined
- Apr 4, 2006
- Threads
- 162
- Messages
- 4,044
- Location
- Hillsboro, OR
- Website
- www.cascadecruisers.com
Where's all the pics of you going up lil'rube, can opener, and waterfall? Just kiddin... looking good boots. I'm going to head out there hopefully on Sat. if I can find some peeps to go with me.
I sure like the way the pic turned out shooting into Dani's side veiw mirror... The 60 did great! Keep ironning out the bugs and lets get that thing up Lil Rubi!
- Thread starter
- #535
Yeah, I'm wanting more sound again and I didn't mind sniffing wood dust compared to metal dust for a change. I didn't buy great stuff in case it gets stolen or ruined from wheeling but stuff that sounds decent. It's stuff I already had in there before the build, just putting it in a different spot now since I want to do something else with the rear panels. I'm still debating about the sub design I was planning on. It'll be bigger than I wanted.
Me too, another favorite.
Your rig on the road 
, nice pics mate, 
, nice pics mate, 
- Thread starter
- #539
weekly update
Family was in town so I spent time with them but I did get a little done.
I found the air filter I wanted. It was the powercore by Donaldson that Volant sold in a universal application. I put in my first order 6 months ago. After three months and a couple of emails saying the manufacture didn't have any dates on when they'd ship it out I cancelled my order and tried another store. After another three months the store I ordered it from cancelled my order and refunded my money. I was bummed because I really liked the features of this powercore filter. I hopped on the internet to search for something else and decided on an Amsoil Ea air filter (ironically also made by donaldson) and put in an order. I also got some fittings from Intake Hoses, IntakeTubing, and Intake Clamps to hook things up.
Everything showed up on tuesday and I got some time yesterday to throw it on. The air filter is the EaAF04090 and I decided to stick with a 4" since that's what the turbo inlet is.
I got the cobra head fitting thinking it would help out on the space constraints. It is deceptively small looking on the website pics and I was amazed to see how big it actually is when I got it.
If I ever need an elbow brace on the trail I now have one I can scavenge from my rig.
Here's my inside-of-the-filter artsy shot.
Old Macgyvered setup.
4" is big and I had to trim down the lip on the cobra head to get it to move over enough to get the oil filter back on. A light coat on the filter case allowed it to slip on the rubber fitting but it touches and perhaps an oil filter relocation kit is going to be needed after all.
Trimming the lip on the cobra head also made it touch the housing by the outlet. There were a couple of touching spots but none that I think will cause a problem. I'll say it again, 4" is big! I ended up rotating the compressor housing to get the inlet to point up some more for fender well clearance.
I got some 4" aluminum tubing to go inside the joints. This is how it turned out. I do plan on fabbing up a heat shield/air filter box and cut out a few more holes for more cool air flow.
I feel better now about dusty conditions since my BHAF had what looked like tears in the pleets. In my quest to get more boost I looked at my modified intake tube going from the intercooler to the intake manifold and saw just a little oil.
I took it off and put a couple of spot welds on it and found more holes. I patched what I could find and I put it back on. I pushed it this morning to get on the freeway but didn't see an increase in boost so I'll be using some soapy water to track down any other leaks I might have.
My new master cylinder showed up yesterday and I hope to get it on next break and get a better feel and response out of my braking system.
Family was in town so I spent time with them but I did get a little done.
I found the air filter I wanted. It was the powercore by Donaldson that Volant sold in a universal application. I put in my first order 6 months ago. After three months and a couple of emails saying the manufacture didn't have any dates on when they'd ship it out I cancelled my order and tried another store. After another three months the store I ordered it from cancelled my order and refunded my money. I was bummed because I really liked the features of this powercore filter. I hopped on the internet to search for something else and decided on an Amsoil Ea air filter (ironically also made by donaldson) and put in an order. I also got some fittings from Intake Hoses, IntakeTubing, and Intake Clamps to hook things up.
Everything showed up on tuesday and I got some time yesterday to throw it on. The air filter is the EaAF04090 and I decided to stick with a 4" since that's what the turbo inlet is.
I got the cobra head fitting thinking it would help out on the space constraints. It is deceptively small looking on the website pics and I was amazed to see how big it actually is when I got it.
If I ever need an elbow brace on the trail I now have one I can scavenge from my rig.
Here's my inside-of-the-filter artsy shot.
Old Macgyvered setup.
4" is big and I had to trim down the lip on the cobra head to get it to move over enough to get the oil filter back on. A light coat on the filter case allowed it to slip on the rubber fitting but it touches and perhaps an oil filter relocation kit is going to be needed after all.
Trimming the lip on the cobra head also made it touch the housing by the outlet. There were a couple of touching spots but none that I think will cause a problem. I'll say it again, 4" is big! I ended up rotating the compressor housing to get the inlet to point up some more for fender well clearance.
I got some 4" aluminum tubing to go inside the joints. This is how it turned out. I do plan on fabbing up a heat shield/air filter box and cut out a few more holes for more cool air flow.
I feel better now about dusty conditions since my BHAF had what looked like tears in the pleets. In my quest to get more boost I looked at my modified intake tube going from the intercooler to the intake manifold and saw just a little oil.
I took it off and put a couple of spot welds on it and found more holes. I patched what I could find and I put it back on. I pushed it this morning to get on the freeway but didn't see an increase in boost so I'll be using some soapy water to track down any other leaks I might have.
My new master cylinder showed up yesterday and I hope to get it on next break and get a better feel and response out of my braking system.
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