Builds Family haulin'

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weekly update

I found out this weekend that I suck at body work. I tried 3 layers with sanding inbetween and I gave up. So it looks like I'll need to get some texture on the quarters to hide the imperfections and mask some of the wavyness. At least now I have a better appreciation for those who can do it well. I just threw on some primer to keep rust from starting. Here are my results :frown:

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Testing continues:

My first test drive with the 38s was pulling a trailer going to get a load of wood. On the way back it's probably the heaviest load I've had on the trailer and towed with the diesel so far. I really like the 38s. Smooth, not very loud, and more comfortable than those worn out 35s. It even tracked better. I did notice an increase on my pyro but the 4bt pulled great. I did get the tranny pretty hot, 240F on the gauge, and had to pull over and let it cool off (stop and go, warmer day, in hilly terrain pulling a heavy load). I am reconsidering about using that heat exchanger and thinking about ditching it for just a cooler. Before I do that I'm going to get a fan for that radiator and redesign the lower coolant hose since it's got a kink in it now from readjusting the motor mounts. I'll probably build an inlet port for the engine side that's the same size as the radiator outlet so I can use one size of hose. Should be much easier to deal with leaks although suprisingly my frankenstein hose isn't leaking a drop. I'll plan on using a tranny cooler with the exchanger and see what happens.

The next day we hooked the trailer back up and picked up a swing set for my daughter's Bday. As we pulled onto the street it was really sluggish and felt like a dog. I wasn't registering any boost on the gauge but could hear the turbo spinning, just not as much as it should. I kept thinking about what it could be as we drove there and back with our load and when I got home to start investigating I noticed the tubing for my boost gauge had come off of the t-fitting for a boost signal. I hooked it back up and we went to pick up some plants. It was boosting like normal and then as I had my foot in it the boost dropped and it became sluggish again. I pulled over and saw the tubing had popped off again so later that evening I fastened it with a hose clamp and used some glue to bond the tubing to the rubber fitting that goes on the T.

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So if you notice an immediate drop in boost, it's not registering on your gauge, and your engine feels like a dog then there could be a pressure leak somewhere, mine was easy to find. This was good to find because I'll be increasing the boost pretty soon by playing with my wastegate. The tranny was running hot again so I hope to finally hit the junkyard this weekend and will add a fan to my list. I'll also do a fluid flush before a big trip to California at the end of May.

The front tires are rubbing on hard turns and I'm getting some slicing so I'll be cutting some chunks out of the fender very soon.

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So the testing continues and hopefully one of these weekends I'll get some springs to reconfigure the fronts and flex it!
 
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You have some guts, chopping and welding your rig like that. The new molding looks really great. Planning any rubber-like coating there?
 
I haven't quite decided what to use yet. I like the rust bullet I've been using on everything else so that's probably in the lead but I'll still need something with texture to go underneath. I've seen some spray-on stuff that's suppost to mimick that factory look on the lower panels you see on newer cars but I don't know if that will be enough texture. I'm sure using a roller with rustbullet will also help give texture so that might be enough with the other stuff underneath. I'm not too fond of herculiner as I did it on my last truck and the UV chewed on it. Then there is that plastidip stuff I was looking into earlier. That might make a good project down in Cali since it will be warmer and drier so I've got a few weeks to decide.
 
:cheers:WOW AS ALWAYS WELL DONE:cheers:
 
I would consider Body Schutz or 3m Rubberized Undercoating in the Aerosol can for some light texture.

I haven't quite decided what to use yet. I like the rust bullet I've been using on everything else so that's probably in the lead but I'll still need something with texture to go underneath. I've seen some spray-on stuff that's suppost to mimick that factory look on the lower panels you see on newer cars but I don't know if that will be enough texture. I'm sure using a roller with rustbullet will also help give texture so that might be enough with the other stuff underneath. I'm not too fond of herculiner as I did it on my last truck and the UV chewed on it. Then there is that plastidip stuff I was looking into earlier. That might make a good project down in Cali since it will be warmer and drier so I've got a few weeks to decide.
 
I would consider Body Schutz or 3m Rubberized Undercoating in the Aerosol can for some light texture.

The undercoating I've used before on my tralier wheel wells (probably wasn't 3M) ended up with bubbles in the skin. I'm not sure how it would take paint over the top nicely but I probably put it on too thick and used the cheap stuff. Maybe better stuff would go on without forming bubble holes in the skin.
 
Good to hear from you Redcorn, I hadn't seen you post for a little while.

I finally got out to the U-Pull It and found a couple of items. I got a pair of rear ranger springs to play with. I found a contour dual fan. There was only one in the whole yard and I don't know why it was in that particular contour because it was sporting a 4 banger and I thought the dual fan only came in the v6 option. Regardless I was happy to find it and all I had to do was cut some wires and it was mine. I also found an aftermarket tranny cooler that I should be able to use.

Contour fan

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I haven't done any research yet but does anyone know what this part of the wiring does?

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Tranny cooler

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I think I might have some air bubbles in the system and that might be helping cause the tranny to run warmer than I want. One of my coolant hoses runs higher than the radiator so that might help trap some air. I know the bigger tires are more of a load but I wouldn't expect them to cause that much heat in the tranny.

We had a club event in a huge shop and I took the opportunity of being inside to reconfigure the front packs. We had to get a little creative on jacking up the frame to drop out the axle and springs and this is what we ended up with. :hillbilly:

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I still had to take the front tires off to get the axle to drop far enough but I needed to take them off anyways.

I took my time, pulled off the springs and decided how I wanted to stack them. You can see the way I had it in the back and the way I re-did it in the front. I originally took the other main ranger spring and heated up just part of the eye to bend it out to create a military wrap but that just didn't seat well so I ended up cutting the eyes off and putting it underneath my main. I stacked the springs so that I had about 3" of underlap (hope that makes sense). It was suggested to help make the pack work together to taper the ends of the spring a little in width and thickness. I was running out of time so I didn't do that part but I thought it's worth mentioning for anyone else trying to tune leaves.

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I got them back on and did some quick cuts on the front fenders so I could at least flex it a little. I'll clean up the lines and will need to modify that core support as it will rub it I try to flex and turn.

The piggy next to me was swapping on longer alcans and we were pretty even for awhile but he got his on the ground before me.

Passenger

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Driver

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With and open rear and no 4wd that's as good as I could get in the gravel.

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That jeep got owned that day. It was undented and this was after a couple of cruisers romped on it. Wish I got in more time watching than wrenching but next year I plan to contribute to the car crushing.

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I knew 2wd wasn't going to get me very far but this was the first time flinging mud with it so I had to see if the cummins would spin those wheels. Spinning was no problem, traction was.

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Felt worst in the rig and I didn't want to chance even the thought of rolling on a wheeling pre-trip.

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Just a great pic. We got everything that day in the weather department and when it really started to snow around 7PM it was time to go.

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Another of the front cut. I'll clean up the cut, modify the core support, and I'll take a little off of the rear.

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Two more of the reconfigured packs.

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I can't wait to go wheelin'!
 
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Not sure if I could tell the difference on Chad's rig but Cameron (Duane's son) did blow a hub on his father's 40.
 
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Pretty fast your spring packs job ..

I thought now you are in the best flex that you can get from your spring packs .. nice, really nice. But I miss the part when you post a video with your 4BT spining your rear tires in the muddy hill !
 
No one grabbed one so I'll add that to the list. I'm still working on the sound video comparison I promised a couple pages ago :o
 
:beer::beer::beer:
Looks like tweaking and adjusting really takes time, especially when you're exploring that kind of terra incognita. Congrats and please keep posting pics of the beast in action!
 
weekly update

Lets start out with troubleshooting.

I was driving up to an intersection at lunch time last week and the engine just died. No stumbling, sputtering or struggling, just turned off. It turned over fine but would not start. I fiddled some with no success and called a co-worker to give me a tow back to work (1/2 mile, I didn't get very far). I fiddled some more in the parking lot but gave up when the 40mph winds were blowing the sideways rain drops up my nose! I got it towed home and continued my troubleshooting the next day. I have two fuel filters: 1 is pre lift pump and 2 is post lift pump. 1 was full of diesel and 2 was more than half empty. The lift pump seemed to prime fine but the engine still didn't fire. I cracked a banjo bolt before filter 2 and tested the lift pump. The pressure seemed fine but at the end of the pump I got some bubbles from the line. I figured it was a hole in the diaphram on my lift pump and air was getting in. I thought about a piston style pump but due to time and funding I just replaced it with another diaphram style pump.

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I also took out the fuel cut-off solenoid thinking that was why the engine just stopped without any stumbling. I should have tried a hot 12v to it first but I didn't, here's what it looks like.

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If the solenoid is faulty and you need to take this out so you can get diesel to your injection pump just take the plunger and spring out and reinstall the body back in the hole.

Don't forget to put the o-ring back on the solenoid or it won't seal and you'll get air sucked in the injection pump and that will lead to air in your injection lines. I did find this out the hard way and cost me a couple hours of head scratching.

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Once I figured out air was coming in and no amount of bleeding the injectors was going help I put the o-ring back in and re-bled. I went through a charge on the battery and had to wait while a battery charger gave it juice for a few more turnovers for the bleeding process. I finally got enough air out of the line that it started. It stumbled for 10-15 seconds, ran rough for 20 seconds while it purged the rest of the air out and then started purring again. I turned it off and made sure it would start back up and it did. I then re-installed the plunger on the fuel cut-off solenoid and found it was working fine.

The other culprit I didn't consider is that I actually ran out of diesel. Since the rear quarter cut I hadn't drilled a new hole for the fuel sender wire to pass through the body and connect with the harness so my fuel gauge wasn't working. I figured I was getting close but was going off of mileage. What I forgot to consider is the difference in the tire size :doh: (from 35s to 38s) When I drilled a hole and connected it back up the gauge read empty. However, it's one of those areas where it's degrees of emptiness but apparently I was close to the last degree. I put 2 gallons in to make it to a diesel station so I wouldn't have to do this again. So I'm not absolutely sure the lift pump was shot. The air bubbles were compelling enough for me and now I've got a spare I can carry around. So it turned into an exercise to get to know my engine better and what to do if I ever run out of diesel again. Moral is, don't run out of diesel!

With that experience and success under my belt I turned to getting the lock-up wired. When I called transgo several months ago about wiring up the solenoid in the tranny I was told to step down the voltage. Well, another tried that out and it didn't work. He talked to his tranny guys and ended up running straight 12v to it and it worked fine so that's what I planned. I went to radio shack thinking they'd have the biggest selection of switches but only found toggle style switches that were rated for 12v. I ended up getting and automotive toggle rated for 12v/20amp. I also picked up LEDs with a built-in resistor so all I'd have to do it wire it in with the switch. I bought two LEDS thinking I'd put one in the dash eventually. Cost me $7

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I took my shifter apart, decided on a location, drilled some holes and put them in.

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Pulled a 12v source from the fuse block and wired it up.

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Found some connectors that would fit the tranny pins and hooked them up. I want to finish this up better but for tryouts this will do.

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Put it all back together and went for a quick test. I flick the switch and the lock-up engages. I'll do a little learning on when it should and shouldn't be engaged but sure makes it feel like a direct connection between the engine and the tires. Success.

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update cont.

On my last day my baffles showed up and I was excited to try them out so I started in on the exhaust.

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I decided to put one in the downpipe and one at the end of the exhaust. It'll be an experiment. My downpipe wasn't long enough so I added in a section. I then marked a drilled some holes for the baffle to be bolted in.

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There it is inside.

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So I'm hoping that this is my final and complete downpipe.

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Over-the-tranny downpipe installed.

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I ran out of steam trying to figure out how I wanted to mount the rest of the exhaust so I just grabbed this piece with a little turndown and threw it on until this weekend.

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I think I'm just about ready to start counting for mileage.
 
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Maybe .. and just maybe the extra fuel filter made your IP plunger do more heavy work . ? in my case with 2 filters I add a electric pump that also help to deliver more diesel to my engine .. :grinpimp:

3" exhaust . ? niiiiceee . .

First time that I saw a baffle .? which it's the idea .. ( thought a sound in the exhaust .? )
 

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