Builds Family haulin' (1 Viewer)

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On our trip out to the coast I hit a couple of climbs that I pulled in 3rd tconverter locked and hit close to 1100F doing 70mph. Climbing in 4th locked I could see 1200F doing 70mph. This is with 17-18psi of boost (wastegate signal plugged) and if I got more I could probably safely add more fuel. I did see higher boost in 3rd than in 4th due to more revs but I'm tach-less still so I don't know the actual rpm. If I can get the boost gauge to mellow out (find the leaks) I'll probably play with adding just a little more fuel to see what EGTs do. If I push more air in there the EGTs will come down from what I have on my current settings so I'd probably have a little more room for more fuel.

As for engine temps with one fan going I stay at 190-200F.

When I was wheeling I just left the one fan going the whole time and temps never got hotter than 190F. The tranny ran up to 190F when in tcase high and would stay around 170F when going around in tcase low running the one fan.

I need to reset my spal controller as the temp range is too close together right now and it cycles between high speed and low speed. It's harder to get the temps up to 205F for my high fan setting just idling when it's not getting as hot outside anymore. The other fan still isn't hooked up as I was troubleshooting the relay wiring and haven't gotten back to it so it's disconnected right now.

As for restictions like a butterfly valve there is no valve, it's all open.
 
This turbo should be able to get me in the 30s without a problem (leaks fixed and correct fueling/timing) and having a little bigger compressor will give me a little better topend. The head gasket at factory torque specs is generally safe up to the low 40s if it's in good condition. If you retorque the head following the 12v 6bt guys some are running 50-80 psi on stock head gaskets with over torqued bolts. It's amazing what some of these guys are pushing through their engines and laying down on the road! While I'm not a 6bt, only seeing 18-20psi max on my 4bt seems small when there is much more potential. In the future I can see bigger injectors and another turbo combo but since I doubt I'm close to maxing out this setup I'm going to get to know it better and get those leaks fixed. Obviously I'm convinced I have leaks and that there is more potential to be had in my current setup.

Some things just take me a while, for example, I finally realized why re-indexing the throttle lever will get the idle back down from when I added the 366 spring to the injection pump and turned up the power screw. Re-indexing the lever will add more spring tension returning it to my idle setting. Turning in the power screw more has caused a higher idle so I need more tension to overcome that and return the throttle lever to my idle setting.
 
here ya go Mike... sorry I've been making my cruiser levitate.

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about 40 extended and about 30 compressed.
 
boots4 said:
This turbo should be able to get me in the 30s without a problem (leaks fixed and correct fueling/timing) and having a little bigger compressor will give me a little better topend. The head gasket at factory torque specs is generally safe up to the low 40s if it's in good condition. If you retorque the head following the 12v 6bt guys some are running 50-80 psi on stock head gaskets with over torqued bolts. It's amazing what some of these guys are pushing through their engines and laying down on the road! While I'm not a 6bt, only seeing 18-20psi max on my 4bt seems small when there is much more potential. In the future I can see bigger injectors and another turbo combo but since I doubt I'm close to maxing out this setup I'm going to get to know it better and get those leaks fixed. Obviously I'm convinced I have leaks and that there is more potential to be had in my current setup.
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damn ! Mike those are serious numbers .. up to 40 PSI factory head&gasket and bolts .. damn ! those rods, pistons and else can hold fine this king of pressure .. ?

Thought I need to move to a 4BT soon !
 
Boots, which H1C are you running? What year Dodge did it come off of? Was it an intercooled or non-intercooled? (changes the impeller size). I'm running a 52MM compressor H1C on my 4BT, with a 12CM nonWC housing. Right now, it can hit 1200 F without even a hill... and has very low boost... 12-15psi.
 
gifu said:
Boots, which H1C are you running? What year Dodge did it come off of? Was it an intercooled or non-intercooled? (changes the impeller size). I'm running a 52MM compressor H1C on my 4BT, with a 12CM nonWC housing. Right now, it can hit 1200 F without even a hill... and has very low boost... 12-15psi.
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I got the H1C from a 93 6bt a friend gave me (thought it was intercooled but not sure). I replaced its exhaust housing with my 12cm wastegated housing and currently have plugged the signal to the wastegate with no increase in boost. I measured the inducer at 54mm and the turbine sizes were the same.

My reasoning on why this combo should get more boost is because the H1C turbines looked the same and the angle on the compressor wheels looked the same, just a bigger inducer. If some guys are getting easy 20s and some with low 30s (with enough fuel) with H1C why can't we. A bigger inducer should mean it can move more air. Maybe we're not spinning our engines high enough to get that full potential (could see this if the compressor vane angles were different), we don't have enough fuel going in (although with high EGTs we're inclined not to add more fuel), or there are other issues like cylinder blowby and psi leaks. Does your gauge flutter and where are you tapped for your signal?
 
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my gauge doesn't flutter. the boost gauge is tapped at the manifold. I have yet to move any fuel or timing settings since pulling the motor from the breadvan. Correction: mine is a 54MM compressor. Same-same as yours. My buddy is running the baby H1C, i think it's a 46 or 44MM compressor, and he's using a 12CM housing (assembly #3523322). His truck will boost to about 20PSI pretty, and pretty fast. But he sees some EGT... about 1100 Pre-Turbo on a long hill. That's pretty hot.
 
Gifu as you know advancing the timing will bring down your EGTs a little. Perhaps the way you routed your exhaust is somewhat restrictive (more stuff you already know) and that shows up as more heat. Something I haven't started looking at yet since I still got psi leaks are the injectors. Maybe they are worn out and not atomizing fuel well enough. What kinds of thing have yout tried already to increase boost? It's not uncommon for the stepvan engines to be timing retarded and power screw deficient. Do you have an intercooler?
 
But if you have enought fuel, no matter what if you advance of retard your IP timing, you would get the same boost as always ( at lease in Toyota Factory turbo engines ) .. more fuel at low rpm ( low boost condicions ) of decreased top speed but the same level of boost ..
 
I haven't done... a thing. Haven't checked timing, injectors, pump, etc. Soon. I wonder, if the injectors are drippy/pissers, would it cause excessive smoke? I mean, could you have poor atomization, causing poor burn, causing high EGT... but still have very little/no smoke?
 
Tapage said:
But if you have enought fuel, no matter what if you advance of retard your IP timing, you would get the same boost as always ( at lease in Toyota Factory turbo engines ) .. more fuel at low rpm ( low boost condicions ) of decreased top speed but the same level of boost ..
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True, I was suggesting timing to bring his EGTs down. That way he could add more fuel and see if he gets more boost.
 
gifu said:
I haven't done... a thing. Haven't checked timing, injectors, pump, etc. Soon. I wonder, if the injectors are drippy/pissers, would it cause excessive smoke? I mean, could you have poor atomization, causing poor burn, causing high EGT... but still have very little/no smoke?
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I'll have to study up on injectors to see what symptoms are caused by what conditions, just haven't looked into those yet.
 
weekly update

After my warning for flares and mud flaps I wanted to at least get something on there and had planned to put mud flaps on it anyways. I looked online at kits and quickly decided I'd make my own. I found some trucker flaps at the local Flying J truck stop. They were only $12.99 per flap, way cheaper than what I found online. They are massive (and these were the smaller ones).

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I went to the hardware store to see about square tubing and again quickly decided I was going to find scrap at home that I can get to work. I found some pipe that would work so I could make them removeable.

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The law as explained to me states that mud flaps must extend down to the center of the axle. I don't need all the length that I have but might leave these until they become a problem. They were pretty simple to make.

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Here's a close-up of the disconnects. The larger pipe had a seam on the inside that I needed to file off to get the smaller tube to slide in. The only other thing I'll probably do it to retain the flap so it doesn't catch a lug and get pulled over the tire. I've taken them on the freeway and they flap some but haven't been pulled over the tire yet.

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Thanks to Zach (brokenparts), I got another front shaft to play with. After looking and measuring I decided to cut off my CV and weld it on his old shaft. This is cutting the single joint yoke off the new shaft. Then I just took a hammer and punch to tap out the yoke.

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I've got more parts to play with now.

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I put the tube in the vice to hold it and put the slip in the tube to get some measurments. I leveled the yoke so I had something to match.

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I inserted the CV on the other end and aligned it so the joints would be in phase. I matched the level and then welded it up. I used two passes to make sure all was well.

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Here it is complete. I might end up retubing it later since it was three inches shorter than my ideal length; however, with 10" of slip I still have plenty of engagement. I put it on and called it a day.

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I've been having some dash light issues. The left combo gauge was acting like a strobe and blinking quickly and my tranny temp gauge light went out. I pulled the dash to investigate and retraced my wiring. I then pulled and tested the bulbs. The bulb I used in the combo gauge was a 5-led and only three were working and for some reason blinking. I swapped it with my non-functioning tack gauge and had no problems so I think that bulb was on it's way out. I figure the tranny temp bulb burned out so I didn't get to it since I have to take the gauge out of the pod to get to it. I'll get some on order and get a few spares now that I found that I like that white color I was using.

I reindexed my throttle arm on my injection pump to the 2-3 marks instead of the 1-4 marks it was lined up with. This made the idle screw useful again and readjusted the idle. I did this because when I turned up the power screw the idle wouldn't return to the setting I had, not a run-away condition just not idling low enough.

I then started to detail the front end with a compound and final polish. The paint has oxidization and is dirty. This has really improved the shine and finish. It takes time to get it all done but it will be easier to maintain once I finish the process. I'm sure this hasn't been done to the vehicle for years if ever.
 
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brokenparts said:
dang you're quick... looks good man!
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It ended up being real simple with what I had so I threw it together. Hopefully I'll get a chance to test it out at Cruise the Woods when I'm done with the check point.
 
Yep it was intercooled.

Boots, props on one of the best diesel build up threads ever!
 
boots4 said:
True, I was suggesting timing to bring his EGTs down. That way he could add more fuel and see if he gets more boost.
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actually I have my rotoy pump advanced 4 degrees ( from totally of 8 that you can advance it ) and my EGT fly really fast .. also I have plenty of diesel available under my skiny pedal anycase ..
 
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