Builds "Falcor" the 1984 FJ60 (1 Viewer)

[77CruiserDog]

Work resumes....

Built the engine stand

After photos of pressure washing the frame

As you can see it didn't exactly clean up very well.... media blasting will take all of this other stuff off.


Tomorrow I'll pluck the engine out and mount it in the stand and strip the frame of all the brake lines and fuel lines in prep for full c-channel removal.

 

[cruisecontrol3]

Keep up the great work. You are inspiring a lot of while I'm in there ideas for my 60... like its already gutted so i might as well lift it off with the same method and get it all nice on the underside.

 

[77CruiserDog]

Keep up the great work. You are inspiring a lot of while I'm in there ideas for my 60... like its already gutted so i might as well lift it off with the same method and get it all nice on the underside.

Thanks! I appreciate it. All of these repairs/improvements needed to be done and rather than pick them off one at at time, it just made sense to take it apart and do it once.

Picking the body off the frame from start to finish took about 6 hours at most. I did it carefully and baged/tagged everything so it can go back together easy too. I will document how I did it in a post below sometime soon. It's pretty straight forward. I followed the same method @LazarusTaxa did with a number of small differences... two of which were mistakes and I'll document those as well. I'm also doing this in a very small 2 car garage... it's smaller than most. So, it's not out of the realm of the average person.

 

[cruisecontrol3]

Yes I have been following along with @LazarusTaxa and your discussion on the method but a write up is always beneficial.

Don't forget a non-flat driveway...

 

[77CruiserDog]

Yes I have been following along with @LazarusTaxa and your discussion on the method but a write up is always beneficial.

Don't forget a non-flat driveway...

Yeah, I feel like my driveway is the beginning of the Olympic long jump for skiing. I have nightmares about my ebrake failing and one of my rigs ending up at the bottom of our neighborhood.

 

[77CruiserDog]

Engine plucked and in it’s new home for a bit before the RMS and oil pan gasket replacement.

 

[77CruiserDog]

Frame stripped and ready to be lifted off the axles.

Once I do this I’ll bring it out to the driveway and finish the c-channel fitment.

 

[77CruiserDog]

Boom

Time to make these c-channels my bi@$h

And yes, my neighbors hate me.

 

[77CruiserDog]

Each rivet comes out in less than 2 seconds.

I found heating them up with a torch makes it nice and easy.

 

[77CruiserDog]

I must have jinxed myself because the rest of them took me another 3 hours. That job pretty much sucks but I think it's much easier to do with the body off.

In the end, it was a combo of air hammer and heat.

Those of you who know, understand the value in terms of time for each one of these....

I'll test fit the @TRAIL TAILOR c-channels tomorrow.

 

[77CruiserDog]

Looking back on the c-channel replacement job, I would have been better off doing it with the axles still on and just saving the 3 rivets that hold the spring perches on until I removed the axles. Having the stability of the tires on the ground could have saved me some time. Just FYI if you're planning on doing this job. Also, wear some ear protection. I've been around a handful of loud things, the air hammer was by far the loudest. Much louder than even some guns I've shot.

I am also still amazed that people can do this job with the body on the vehicle. The entire job took me 3.5 hours. I'm guessing it would have taken 3.5 days if I did it with the body on.

 

[77CruiserDog]

Also, it just hit me... this is the turning point in some respects. Other than a rear main seal and oil pan gasket, this is the furthest Falcor will be torn down. So I guess it's all downhill from here.

 

[Bullzi]

I just did this job with the body on a few months ago...it sucked! it took about 3hrs per side. I drilled the heads off the rivets and punched them out with an air hammer. Access to the upper rivets was a nightmare!

Nice work, your progress is really good! I'm sure our paths will cross at some point, as I am in the Seattle area as well. I was in Seattle proper, but am now on the peninsula.

I did this exact job a few months ago and also used the Trail Tailor SS c-channels...and learned a few things. You can check it out here...but the biggest lesson learned is that the holes in the frame (where you punched out the rivets) need to be expanded to fit the Trail Tailor hardware. I did not know this and had to go back after I had painted and bore them out. You might already know this, but I figured it might be worth mentioning so you don't have a shiny powder-coated frame that needs to be drilled out. You may even want to drill them out a little wider to account for the powder-coating thickness.
One other thing is that you may want to use grade 8 hardware for the bolts that attach the spring hangers to the frame. The stainless ones were too short and I wanted something a little stronger - you can see what I mean on my thread.

Anyways, great job and keep it up!

 

[77CruiserDog]

I just did this job with the body on a few months ago...it sucked! it took about 3hrs per side. I drilled the heads off the rivets and punched them out with an air hammer. Access to the upper rivets was a nightmare!

Nice work, your progress is really good! I'm sure our paths will cross at some point, as I am in the Seattle area as well. I was in Seattle proper, but am now on the peninsula.

I did this exact job a few months ago and also used the Trail Tailor SS c-channels...and learned a few things. You can check it out here...but the biggest lesson learned is that the holes in the frame (where you punched out the rivets) need to be expanded to fit the Trail Tailor hardware. I did not know this and had to go back after I had painted and bore them out. You might already know this, but I figured it might be worth mentioning so you don't have a shiny powder-coated frame that needs to be drilled out. You may even want to drill them out a little wider to account for the powder-coating thickness.
One other thing is that you may want to use grade 8 hardware for the bolts that attach the spring hangers to the frame. The stainless ones were too short and I wanted something a little stronger - you can see what I mean on my thread.

Anyways, great job and keep it up!

Yeah Bullzi, let's grab a beer next time you're in my neck of the woods. I'll reach out if I'm over on the Peninsula. I've read your build, it's awesome!! Very nice work. I think your c-channel replacement was what got me to thinking I should use the air hammer.

Yep, the holes certainly need to be enlarged, but thanks very much for sharing. Had I not known, I would have been frustrated to drill a freshly powder coated frame. I appreciate you looking out.

I started on the fitment today but unfortunately the bit that comes with the kit was wasted after 4 holes. I'm pretty sure it's my fault as I was pushing pretty hard on the bit and didn't use any oil to help it along. I ordered a few more step bits which should be here today.

It appears that the kit I received has some grade 8 bolts that are longer than the SS ones also included, I've not dug in to the hardware too much just yet as once the step bit failed I was done for the day.

 

[77CruiserDog]

5spd bell housing fitment complete

 

[77CruiserDog]

Confirmed - I was using the drill bit like a rental car and that's why it was wasted after just 4 holes.

I tried a new step bit with some cutting oil and going a touch slower and it worked much better... I'll finish this fitment up tomorrow and maybe have enough time to get everything over to the powder coater.

 

[LazarusTaxa]

No, that bit that came with the c-channels was garbage... mine didnt even make it through one hole.

My other step bit took care of the rest by itself.

 

[77CruiserDog]

C-channels fitted

 

[77CruiserDog]

All parts at powder

 

[cruisecontrol3]

I'm excited about how awesome all these parts are going to look.