Factory Subwoofer Info Guide (1 Viewer)

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Gents, who can advise me on how to release the speaker leads from the terminals without breaking the plastic clip/housing? Nothing I’m trying is working. I would prefer to preserve the factory speaker leads, etc.

thx,
Tim
So you want to remove the pinned wires?
Then you’ll want a set it two of unpinning tools.

Amazon product ASIN B07MJKCM81
Or similar, never know which one is the one you need
 
So I just looked a the JBL System in the FSM. It is really different from the Mark Levinson!

Most of the action is on F58 at the receiver and F55 at the amp. You also get two separate fused power pins at the Amp on the power ground/acc connector, so adding a DSP and one amp is pretty manageable, could reuse the factory wiring maybe.

I see that 6v MOST signal for power on and ACC, it's the newer 6v carrier wave type acc.

What is different is that instead of L and R (edit again, looks like L and R may be the MOST signals on F62, see a couple posts down) (F55 is speaker level outputs that are already filtered probably). Awkward. A competent DSP can mix these signals together (for example the Alpine PXE-850S I'm using can do it) to derive the full range, there is a shield ground in the mix, which will be no fun.

The telematics etc is also there as separate signals if you want to mess with it.

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@grinchy , thanks for the diagram.

Apologies if this is a basic question, but if I look at this schematic, are the component sets are wired together? and if so I'm guessing there has to be a passive x-over for the mid and tweeter... The front 6x9 are confirmed to only receive midbass frequencies from the amp so maybe the dash and tweets just have some high pass filter on from the amp and then the passive x-over kicks in?

ultimately, I'm wondering if i actually need a DSP (tuning / timing abilities aside) - if i'm ok with how the JBL is processing the sound and i just want more output, in theory couldn't i just take the specific after factory amp signals i want, route them through a high level input of an amp, then back out to factory speaker wire?
 
@grinchy , thanks for the diagram.

Apologies if this is a basic question, but if I look at this schematic, are the component sets are wired together? and if so I'm guessing there has to be a passive x-over for the mid and tweeter... The front 6x9 are confirmed to only receive midbass frequencies from the amp so maybe the dash and tweets just have some high pass filter on from the amp and then the passive x-over kicks in?

ultimately, I'm wondering if i actually need a DSP (tuning / timing abilities aside) - if i'm ok with how the JBL is processing the sound and i just want more output, in theory couldn't i just take the specific after factory amp signals i want, route them through a high level input of an amp, then back out to factory speaker wire?
You absolutely can. The main reason you would want some type of processor is to regain the lost bass. The factory system lowers the bass level as you increase the volume to protect the speakers. Beyond that, it is so you can adjust the sound to your liking.
 
Yeah if your factory amp is functional you can run off high level. As @Ratchey said you will only get what the factory xover and dsp is set for. Yes I think the mid tweets have a Passive xover. You can amp the house sound but it will remain the house sound. This is where the various dsp types try to improve is by backing out the house processing and allowing for unbound sound.
Remember that audio is not prioritized in design or given a large budget/bom even in a $90k car.
 
I recently added a sub amp and the GROM VLine2.
Re the amp, if anyone is on the fence, I highly recommend it. As @grinchy suggested, it makes a huge difference. I cannot believe how much output is coming out of my CDT 8" sub in the factory enclosure. The best part about it is - completely OEM look and no sacrifice of trunk space with an external sub box. Again, i'm using a CDT 8" 2 ohm DVC.... i did this to match factory impedence while i did not have an external amp. Prior to external amp installed, the sub sounded good, but its presence was lacking. I'm not confused on what to expect from an 8 and when i had it running off the factory amp i was left with a "meh" feeling and really wanting more. Now, with a modest Alpine MRV250 (150x1) driving this sub in 4 ohm mono (wired the 2 ohm DVC in series because i was wary of the amp handling a 1 ohm mono load) the output is signficant and to the point where adding a bass knob was a critical move so i could lower its volume on the fly (i have not gone past a quarter turn). Ahead of the amp, there is an AudioControl LC2i converting the factory speaker level sub line to a low level signal.
Re the GROM, it is amazing. Works perfect in my 2014. I know there are other threads on the forum going into detail about this.. but just want to highly recommend for anyone with 200 series (pre 2016).

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Got the CDT 8" subwoofer. Thanks to @Murckman for sharing info. Installed yesterday. I have to say this was very easy to do. And this sub makes a big difference, even being fed from stock amp. Definitely better sounding than stock. Very impressed.

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Also upgraded the rear hatch speakers to Infinity Reference 4032CFX. Sounds so much cleaner and clearer than stock, especially at higher volume. I think I will also change out the front corner dash speakers to these.

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Finally, changed out the front OEM 6x9 with a Infinity Kappa 6x9 but was disappointed. Not with the Kappa speaker but with the output signal to the 6x9. The signal is split from the A pillar tweeter but the output sound level is so low it made no difference having the new speaker. So I took out and put OEM back in.
 
Got the CDT 8" subwoofer. Thanks to @Murckman for sharing info. Installed yesterday. I have to say this was very easy to do. And this sub makes a big difference, even being fed from stock amp. Definitely better sounding than stock. Very impressed.

View attachment 2293839

Also upgraded the rear hatch speakers to Infinity Reference 4032CFX. Sounds so much cleaner and clearer than stock, especially at higher volume. I think I will also change out the front corner dash speakers to these.

View attachment 2293844

Finally, changed out the front OEM 6x9 with a Infinity Kappa 6x9 but was disappointed. Not with the Kappa speaker but with the output signal to the 6x9. The signal is split from the A pillar tweeter but the output sound level is so low it made no difference having the new speaker. So I took out and put OEM back in.

The Kappas require more power than the reference line. They would sound really good if you boosted the power going to them. You are also not receiving a full signal to them so the tweeter is basically useless. You would have to capture the signal before it gets cut at the pillar tweeter.
 
Got the CDT 8" subwoofer. Thanks to @Murckman for sharing info. Installed yesterday. I have to say this was very easy to do. And this sub makes a big difference, even being fed from stock amp. Definitely better sounding than stock. Very impressed.

View attachment 2293839

Also upgraded the rear hatch speakers to Infinity Reference 4032CFX. Sounds so much cleaner and clearer than stock, especially at higher volume. I think I will also change out the front corner dash speakers to these.

View attachment 2293844

Finally, changed out the front OEM 6x9 with a Infinity Kappa 6x9 but was disappointed. Not with the Kappa speaker but with the output signal to the 6x9. The signal is split from the A pillar tweeter but the output sound level is so low it made no difference having the new speaker. So I took out and put OEM back in.
The side dash speakers are a little tricky, probably the most difficult of all the speakers. You will need to trim part of the plastic opening to get the new speakers to fit, and you will need to tap a new hole for one of the screws. If you have a small right angle Phillips that will help with the install. I went with the JBL GX series 2.3 ohm. It made a huge difference.
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The side dash speakers are a little tricky, probably the most difficult of all the speakers. You will need to trim part of the plastic opening to get the new speakers to fit, and you will need to tap a new hole for one of the screws. If you have a small right angle Phillips that will help with the install. I went with the JBL GX series 2.3 ohm. It made a huge difference.View attachment 2294251View attachment 2294252
When you say trim, did you have enough room to use a Dremel like tool or trim by hand?

Also, do the factory grilles pop back in place or do the speakers stick up too far?
 
When you say trim, did you have enough room to use a Dremel like tool or trim by hand?

Also, do the factory grilles pop back in place or do the speakers stick up too far?
It’s only a couple of millimeters that need to be removed. I used really sharp snips and also a dremel. It was actually easier to use the snips in there as long as you have ones that are sharp. Just see where it has the restriction and cut just a little at a time. The bottom magnet will basically touch the AC ducting but it has a little play and that won’t be an issue. The cover will go back on as long as you get the speaker screwed down tight in both locations.
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When you say trim, did you have enough room to use a Dremel like tool or trim by hand?

Also, do the factory grilles pop back in place or do the speakers stick up too far?
Also wanted to mention that you will need to take two of the four screw tabs off when you try to fit the speaker in on the dash sides. The ones that would face the front and rear need to be removed or it won’t fit, and the ones facing right and left will get screwed into place. If you take some pliers and bend the tabs back and forth they will break off pretty cleanly. Just make sure you break the entire tab off or it won’t fit in the opening.
 
I decided it was time to redo the sub and mount it correctly so the panel would snap in place. I tried to make a new adapter from 13/16s MDF but the sub is just a bit too big. I routed it to counter sink the plate and then routed the other side to counter sink the sub. As I came around on the last cut you can see where I went through the remaining material. Just not enough to work with.

I thought about buying a new sub but couldn't find anything I liked that would fit for under $200 so decided to keep working with the JL I had.

I found a guy on ebay to make a plate out of steel for me. Drilled out a few holes and mounted it up. Used some weather stripping from Home Depot to make it air tight.

Had some scrap CLD left over from another project so added that to the box to try to reduce the flex and vibration. This was more than enough to make it a pretty solid box.

Got her wired up and everything put back together. Replaced a few broken clips and now no more rattling panel.

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Sweet! I want one!

I need to go back in and update my mounting ring to, but I've got to space out instead of in as I used a 10" sub and it won't clear the top shoulder without the additional depth. I have the 8 gauge for the sub amp to the left hand rear quarter, just need to pull the seats and rear quarters and run it across. I had to trim the rear quarter cover as it was threatening to dent into the sub face . . .
 
Sweet! I want one!

I need to go back in and update my mounting ring to, but I've got to space out instead of in as I used a 10" sub and it won't clear the top shoulder without the additional depth. I have the 8 gauge for the sub amp to the left hand rear quarter, just need to pull the seats and rear quarters and run it across. I had to trim the rear quarter cover as it was threatening to dent into the sub face . . .
Yeah, you need to make sure it isn't hitting the panel. I have a grill cover on my Alpine sub and one day I noticed bits of rubber at the bottom of it. Turns out the sub was hitting the guard and chipping away at the surround. Never thought the sub would travel out that far.
 
Yeah, you need to make sure it isn't hitting the panel. I have a grill cover on my Alpine sub and one day I noticed bits of rubber at the bottom of it. Turns out the sub was hitting the guard and chipping away at the surround. Never thought the sub would travel out that far.
The panel definitely has a 'spacer' in a crescent shape that I cut flush. It interacts with the spacer that is mounted on our factory sub. No rubbing I can hear, but when I pull it apart it'll be interesting to see if there's some interaction. Thinking I might order some matting too . . .
 

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