Factory Subwoofer Info Guide (2 Viewers)

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I installed an 8" JL 8W3 in the factory enclosure. I am powering it with an Alpine 600.1 sub amp.
The enclosure seems to be holding up fine but I am getting some rattling at certain frequencies. Part of that is coming from the fact that the grill cover is just tall enough to be pushing on the panel and not letting one of the clips stay in place. I can't remove the cover though since I have to build a 10" to 8" adapter so the sub already sits higher in place.
I may take it back apart and add some CLD to the actual enclosure. I had already added some to the quarter panel since it was being vibrated by the stock ML sub.
Over all I am pleased and surprised by the amount of bass from this setup. On certain songs I am able to shake the rear view mirror to the point it is completely unusable.
Once I get some type or drawer system in there I can move the amp and processor to that and pull out the box and 10" Alpine Type R sub and gain back that room.
Good info thanks for posting. I replaced the ml amp earlier this year and probably will do the sub soon.
 
For that amount of work, I'd expect Led Zeppelin sitting in the back performing for me!:clap:
 
@Murkman- Thanks for starting this thread. I too have been looking for audio upgrade options for my 2014 LC and have not found much intel on the matter. My goals are simple (at least in my head)... upgrade the JBL system while keeping everything looking stock. i.e. add 4 channel amp to drive component speakers up front and rear door speakers and swap out the factory sub - either using factory sub enclosure or go with a fiberglass custom enclosure in the same location... Have you noticed any improvement using the RF sub? I'm curious if the factory sub enclosure is rigid enough to handle an aftermarket speaker.... this would make everything a whole lot simpler (and less expensive).

For your install, if you're not getting enough out of the factory amp, i would definitely just add a sub amp and hide it behind that panel - use an AudioControl LC2i to tap into the factory sub output then go to a small mono aftermarket amp - i did this in my Audi and it sounded great.

I'm in the process of getting the GROM VL2 installed for Android Auto and will also look to upgrade the rest of the sound system in stages.
The RF subwoofer is still breaking in (about 12 hours so far) but sounding better every day. Certain songs it hits great, but really low frequencies are still somewhat hollow. The sub could definitely handle more power than the stock amp is giving it, and would likely sound much better with a small amp powering just the sub. I’m not quite there on wanting to go that route yet. My previous 2002 100 series had a 6.5 dual two ohm that sounded great with the factory amp. If it comes down to it I’ll put in a different sub, but again I’m still giving the RF a shot for now.
My main goal with replacement was just to make it sound better overall, not really to create something that would rattle the windows.
 
The RF subwoofer is still breaking in (about 12 hours so far) but sounding better every day. Certain songs it hits great, but really low frequencies are still somewhat hollow. The sub could definitely handle more power than the stock amp is giving it, and would likely sound much better with a small amp powering just the sub. I’m not quite there on wanting to go that route yet. My previous 2002 100 series had a 6.5 dual two ohm that sounded great with the factory amp. If it comes down to it I’ll put in a different sub, but again I’m still giving the RF a shot for now.
My main goal with replacement was just to make it sound better overall, not really to create something that would rattle the windows.
Genuinely curious, how does a subwoofer get broken in? What is involved in the break in? What changes in the sub?
 
Genuinely curious, how does a subwoofer get broken in? What is involved in the break in? What changes in the sub?
I was skeptical about that too but this came with it.
80127DAC-0BA3-4FC9-9404-C79808FCB517.png
 
Eric, these pictures are incredibly helpful. Thanks for sharing. For that install, did your installer keep the factory subwoofer enclosure and just add dampening material to it? Were you able to listen to the finished product? really curious if the factory enclosure held up... the dynomat added to that project is critical - the cabin must be amazingly quiet now
Thanks. Yes I have listened to it. It’s incredible. We Dynomatted the entire vehicle. Floors, sides, doors.
 
Update on the RF sub:
It just wasn’t doing it. Don’t get me wrong it worked ok and was really good with tight bass notes, but it just wasn’t producing any deeper frequencies the way I hoped it would. It could just be a thing with all shallow mount subs, and I had decided earlier in the week to get something else. I had previously refitted my 100 series with all CDT Audio speakers and sub. I was really pleased with that set up, which was powered by the factory amp. I decided to pull the trigger on the CDT Audio HD-800 CF 8” DVC 2 ohm sub, and it got delivered yesterday. Very well made heavy magnet sub with a depth of 3.69”, so it fits nicely. Installed it today and am finally pleased with the way it sounds.
Link below for short video I did. For reference volume was at 40 and bass was set to +2. Powered by the factory amp.

iCloud
 
Update on the RF sub:
It just wasn’t doing it. Don’t get me wrong it worked ok and was really good with tight bass notes, but it just wasn’t producing any deeper frequencies the way I hoped it would. It could just be a thing with all shallow mount subs, and I had decided earlier in the week to get something else. I had previously refitted my 100 series with all CDT Audio speakers and sub. I was really pleased with that set up, which was powered by the factory amp. I decided to pull the trigger on the CDT Audio HD-800 CF 8” DVC 2 ohm sub, and it got delivered yesterday. Very well made heavy magnet sub with a depth of 3.69”, so it fits nicely. Installed it today and am finally pleased with the way it sounds.
Link below for short video I did. For reference volume was at 40 and bass was set to +2. Powered by the factory amp.

iCloud
That is a much more efficient sub at 87 so it should sound much better. Nice find.
 
Update on the RF sub:
It just wasn’t doing it. Don’t get me wrong it worked ok and was really good with tight bass notes, but it just wasn’t producing any deeper frequencies the way I hoped it would. It could just be a thing with all shallow mount subs, and I had decided earlier in the week to get something else. I had previously refitted my 100 series with all CDT Audio speakers and sub. I was really pleased with that set up, which was powered by the factory amp. I decided to pull the trigger on the CDT Audio HD-800 CF 8” DVC 2 ohm sub, and it got delivered yesterday. Very well made heavy magnet sub with a depth of 3.69”, so it fits nicely. Installed it today and am finally pleased with the way it sounds.
Link below for short video I did. For reference volume was at 40 and bass was set to +2. Powered by the factory amp.

iCloud

That sounds great, Is that using the factory amp? cost?
 
This topic doesn’t seem to have been covered much so I thought I would post some usable info on the factory subwoofer enclosure and subwoofer replacement.
Before ordering an 8 inch subwoofer replacement for my 08 LC I searched long and hard for info on mounting depth of the factory enclosure along with info on speaker impedance. I didn’t have much luck finding info on the 200 Series but it had to be similar in respect to other Toyota’s with factory subwoofer enclosures. Based on the info on the 4Runner sites I decided to pull the trigger on an 8” dual 2 ohm shallow mount subwoofer. The panel is pretty complex to take apart but definitely not impossible, just time consuming. I ordered my subwoofer from Crutchfield and they emailed me installation instructions specifically for the 200 Series (about 70 pages long) that helps guide you in the removal process.
Hope this can help others.

Factory enclosure with subwoofer removed:
View attachment 2225381

Factory enclosure depth at shallowest point, just shy of 4-1/2”:
View attachment 2225385

Factory sub depth:
View attachment 2225380

Factory impedance (same on other coil):
View attachment 2225382

New subwoofer installed:
View attachment 2225383
Is that depth 4 7/8 or 4 1/2" and the factory sub is 3 3/4? Thanks for detailing the install!
 
Is that depth 4 7/8 or 4 1/2" and the factory sub is 3 3/4? Thanks for detailing the install!
Factory sub is 3-3/4”. Enclosure depth varies as it is curved inside, but the shortest depth is 4-1/2” at the top edge (12 o’clock). I should have measured in the middle as it is slightly deeper, but I didn’t measure that. If you found a 2 ohm DVC sub that’s 4-7/8” it should fit. Going off Ratchey’s advice, you should try to find one that has a higher decibel rating than 82 or 83. The CDT is rated at 87 and it’s working good on the factory amp.
 
Thanks @Murckman

The really cool double stack magnet, 15 lb 8" subs all seem to be around 5" plus mounting depth and have lower sensitivities. I also didn't want to have to mess with fitment.

I looked a bit on amazon and narrowed it down to these three.

Rockville $44 4ohm vas 6.1 88db mounting depth 2.91. sealed 0.5
CT Sounds $60 2ohm dual 85db vas 9.6 depth 4.5 no box recommendation
JBL 810 $60 in stock, ($49 out of stock). 4ohm 88db vas 15.9 depth 4" sealed 0.35. Bought via JBL site . . .

I went with the JBL. It'll fit no problem, it has good reviews, and it is recommended for a small box.

 
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Thanks @Murckman

The really cool double stack magnet, 15 lb 8" subs all seem to be around 5" plus and have lower sensitivities. I also didn't want to have to mess with fitment.

I looked a bit on amazon and narrowed it down to these three.

Rockville $44 4ohm vas 6.1 88db mounting depth 2.91. sealed 0.5
CT Sounds $60 2ohm dual 85db vas 9.6 depth 4.5 no box recommendation
JBL 810 $60 in stock, ($49 out of stock). 4ohm 88db vas 15.9 depth 4" sealed 0.35. Bought via JBL site . . .

I went with the JBL. It'll fit no problem, it has good reviews, and it is recommended for a small box.

Thanks @Murckman

The really cool double stack magnet, 15 lb 8" subs all seem to be around 5" plus and have lower sensitivities. I also didn't want to have to mess with fitment.

I looked a bit on amazon and narrowed it down to these three.

Rockville $44 4ohm vas 6.1 88db mounting depth 2.91. sealed 0.5
CT Sounds $60 2ohm dual 85db vas 9.6 depth 4.5 no box recommendation
JBL 810 $60 in stock, ($49 out of stock). 4ohm 88db vas 15.9 depth 4" sealed 0.35. Bought via JBL site . . .

I went with the JBL. It'll fit no problem, it has good reviews, and it is recommended for a small box.

I don’t think you are going to be happy with a single voice coil 4 ohm sub. The inputs coming from the amp are 2 ohm x 2 channels. You’ll be eliminating a channel to run one 2 ohm channel to a single voice coil 4 ohm sub. So essentially the power that runs that sub now will be cut in half. Unless your doing an aftermarket amp I wouldn’t go that route. Maybe someone on the forum knows how to wire it up differently to make it work and still utilize full power from the factory amp, but I don’t think it’s going to work right.
 
I don’t think you are going to be happy with a single voice coil 4 ohm sub. The inputs coming from the amp are 2 ohm x 2 channels. You’ll be eliminating a channel to run one 2 ohm channel to a single voice coil 4 ohm sub. So essentially the power that runs that sub now will be cut in half. Unless your doing an aftermarket amp I wouldn’t go that route. Maybe someone on the forum knows how to wire it up differently to make it work and still utilize full power from the factory amp, but I don’t think it’s going to work right.
Thanks - yeah, I see what you mean, but I am in a different situation than most.

I have an aftermarket amp. I have an LX570 and the Mark Levinson amplifier crapped out a few months ago. After some struggle I got 12 channels of amplification and DSPs to shape the sound to fit under the driver seat. It was a small adventure. In any case, the LX570 may treat the sub differently than the TLC, as it has only one pair going to the sub out from the ML amp.
Sub - WF1+ W 1, WF1- B 6 (8 ohm) (F3)

1585081677671.png


The other side of this channel on my amp is the center (6 ohm), so as long as I'm in the 4 - 8 ohm window it shouldn't be too stressful on the amp. A DVC 3ohm would be ideal, but I'm not buying a JL Audio sub for this application.

*Edit, i see not all mappings are on the pin out. The four speakers on this plug are: Ctr, Sub, rear door woofers L and R*
 
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Thanks - yeah, I see what you mean, but I am in a different situation than most.

I have an aftermarket amp. I have an LX570 and the Mark Levinson amplifier crapped out a few months ago. After some struggle I got 12 channels of amplification and DSPs to shape the sound to fit under the driver seat. It was a small adventure. In any case, the LX570 may treat the sub differently than the TLC, as it has only one pair going to the sub out from the ML amp.
Sub - WF1+ W 1, WF1- B 6 (8 ohm) (F3)

View attachment 2247800

The other side of this channel on my amp is the center (6 ohm), so as long as I'm in the 4 - 8 ohm window it shouldn't be too stressful on the amp. A DVC 3ohm would be ideal, but I'm not buying a JL Audio sub for this application.

*Edit, i see not all mappings are on the pin out. The four speakers on this plug are: Ctr, Sub, rear door woofers L and R*

You will be fine with an aftermarket amp. The only issue is you bought an 8" sub. The stock ML sub is 10". You will need to make an adapter. Our boxes seem to be different than the LC JBL boxes.
 
You will be fine with an aftermarket amp. The only issue is you bought an 8" sub. The stock ML sub is 10". You will need to make an adapter. Our boxes seem to be different than the LC JBL boxes.
houston we have a problem!
I won't be building an adapter. JBL claims free returns. Assuming the box is still 4" deep or so . ..
 
Looks like I'm trying the JBL Club 10" WS1000, 3 5/16" mounting. I didn't do as much searching, looks like most were 89 to 91 db.
 

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