Factory sub tank - sourcing and fitment discussion

[AnyMal]

Full replace.



Either option uses the venturi bits. The full pump replacement replaces the original pump (that doesn't have the venturi) with a pump that has it. The rebuild just retrofits the venturi bits into the original pump, presumably cheaper.

Thanks for the synopsis LOL. Just to confirm, you still need two fillers correct?

 

[grinchy]

Thanks for the synopsis LOL. Just to confirm, you still need two fillers correct?

THere is one hole in the filler to put gas in.
There is a y bung a few inches down that runs into the sub tank.
Then the end of the filler goes into the main tank.

If one had a split fillers (two holes to put gas in), that would also work.

 

[FerrisBueller]

@grinchy what path did you route the canister's wire / cable extension under the vehicle?

 

[grinchy]

Eek. I don’t remember. I know for the sender I went in at the grommet behind the rear wheel on driver side.

Probably ran the canister up the tunnel behind the heat shielding as much as possible. I do remember putting it in a corrugated abrasion split tube.

 

[FerrisBueller]

Eek. I don’t remember. I know for the sender I went in at the grommet behind the rear wheel on driver side.

Probably ran the canister up the tunnel behind the heat shielding as much as possible. I do remember putting it in a corrugated abrasion split tube.

I was thinking of making it follow the hard fuel lines as much as possible (which I think mostly go up the tunnel as you said), but they do go awfully close to the hot exhaust pipes. I have corrugated loom for the cable, so maybe that helps keep the heat at bay. The cable is also external, weather-rated cable for temperatures up to 105 C (higher than most cables), so I think it should be okay as long as it hugs those fuel lines. Just a bit paranoid, though.

 

[grinchy]

Yeah I hate running stuff by the manifolds and headers, but there isn’t any other outside option. It is t too hard to tuck it behind the heat shields.

 

[grinchy]

Spent the afternoon making a 36AH size hole in the right front. Moved the charcoal canister back parallel with the air box. Had to remake the brackets and move the PS reservoir over to the radiator.

The PS reservoir isn't quite installed yet, but I've trimmed the bracket and identified where the hole needs to go for the nutsert.

I also managed to drop my last green clip for the Evap hoses. If i recall they aren't available separately, so i've got a zip tie in the channel for now, and it seems to be holding it fine. Guess we'll find out next self test.

This new position has slightly better bend radius for the evap connection and much better for the electrical.

I've got about 4.5 wide, 7.5 long, and 8.5 tall for the 36AH.

 

[AcmeSys]

I just ordered the parts for this- thanks for the details and parts list. I did find there is another PN for the filler and shows in stock at several UAE vendors- 7720160E80 that looks like the correct setup for the sub tank install. Cost was ~1000 for the parts and ~500 for the shipping to the US

 

[grinchy]

I just ordered the parts for this- thanks for the details and parts list. I did find there is another PN for the filler and shows in stock at several UAE vendors- 7720160E80 that looks like the correct setup for the sub tank install. Cost was ~1000 for the parts and ~500 for the shipping to the US

Nice find! $100 plus shipping and a stocked part will be a boon for future installs

 

[AcmeSys]

Toyota Part numbers
Assume 1, other quantity specified
The filler 77201-60B00, or 77201-60B10 or 77201-60B90. I used 77201-60B10.
The sub tank Tank Sub-Assy, Fuel 77001-60831
Fuel Pump Assembly 77020-60372
Tube Sub-Assy Fuel 77017-60550
Tube Sub-assy, Fuel 77108-60160
Tube Sub-Assy, Fuel 77108-60170
Gasket, Fuel Suction Tube Set 77169-47030
Tube Sub-Assy, Fuel 77206-60461
Hose, Fuel Tank to 77213-60320
Clip, Tube Joint 77241-33011 (3)
Tube, Fuel Main, No. 3 77253-60331
Hose, Fuel 77259-60880
Shield, Fuel Tank 77291-60120
Gasket, Fuel Tank Cap 77316-52040
Ring, Fuel Inlet Box 77371-35010
Ring, Fuel Inlet Box 77391-35020
Hose, Fuel, No.3 77419-60020
Band Sub-Assy, Fuel Tank, No.2 RH 77603-60040
Band Sub Assy, Fuel Tank, No.2 LH 77604-60040
Bolt, W/ Washer 90119-10816 (2)
Wire, Floor, No. 3 82163-60410
Gage Assy, Fuel 83320-69535
Screw, W/Washer 90159-50129 (6)
Clamp Hose 90460-46005 (2)
Clamp 90460-22001 (3)
Clip, 90959-04001
Hose, Breather 95313-13020
Clip, Hose 96135-51300
Clip, Hose 96137-41501

Ordered, but didn't use
Retainer, Fuel Pump 77144-47020
Tube, Fuel Emission 77263-60120
Tube, Fuel Emission 77263-60110
Bolt (For Automatic Transmission) 91651-B0820 (4)
Gasket 77169-32010 (siphon, one came with it)
Screw w Washer 93319-A4010 (6) sender gauge came with screws

Total Cost:
Partsouq orders with freight (tank, pump, all the rest of stuff) - $1240. (Note if you rebuild your fuel pump should be $300 less)
Filler from Australia - $180.
Tools, hose, clamps, brass barbs - $150 (estimated, it was less than I thought it would be). Note that if you reuse the manifold hardline this is $40 less)
$1200 to $1570 (includes tax, freight, incidentals)

Time - Car down for four weeks, I estimate 40 - 50 hours total. Doing it again I think it's a full weekend project (15 hours?). I assume it'll go a lot faster now that the recipe is in place. I spent literal days working on stuff that now can be done in a couple hours (example spent six hours trying to fit new filler, when with body lift took 15 min. Running hose to engine bay vs using hardline - 4 hours probably saved. Trying to find a place for the charcoal canister - 4 hours saved. Just cutting off the vent fitting instead of trying to remove it and inventing a tool to do so - 6 hours, Knowing it will work so don't have to make everything reversible, 6 hours.)

FYSA- I think there there is a minor typo/transposition on two PNs in the list-
Tube Sub-assy, Fuel 77108-60160 ***SHOULD BE 77018-60160?
Tube Sub-Assy, Fuel 77108-60170 ***SHOULD BE 77018-60170?

 

[grinchy]

FYSA- I think there there is a minor typo/transposition on two PNs in the list-
Tube Sub-assy, Fuel 77108-60160 ***SHOULD BE 77018-60160?
Tube Sub-Assy, Fuel 77108-60170 ***SHOULD BE 77018-60170?

You are correct, I just looked up my order with Partsouq. I’ll go fix the original post. I hope this didn’t cause too much issue!

 

[unclemat]

I love the idea of this mod I will try to do it in my 2015.

@grinchy - big thank you for blazing the path. Any long term updates re the sub-tank? Anyone else successfully installed it?

 

[unclemat]

Either option uses the venturi bits. The full pump replacement replaces the original pump (that doesn't have the venturi) with a pump that has it. The rebuild just retrofits the venturi bits into the original pump, presumably cheaper.

Can I get a clarification here? 77020-60372 part number is available in USA. Are we saying the ROW part has the venturi, but USA one does not, despite having the same part #?

 

[grinchy]

I love the idea of this mod I will try to do it in my 2015.

@grinchy - big thank you for blazing the path. Any long term updates re the sub-tank? Anyone else successfully installed it?

There have been two installs I know of.

I am having an ongoing fail of the charcoal canister self test. Either my wire extension broke so it isn’t powering the canister valves or I lost the seal on the input evap hose to my canister relo. It’s a non issue except every three ir four days I have to reset codes on start, which takes about 30 seconds.

I tried sealing the hose a new way this weekend, too soon to get aFailed self test to see if it worked. I dropped one of the green evap clips and couldn’t find it . . . Like six months ago. Definitely not a very big issue, I didn’t even try to fix it for 6 months.

The other small issue is that the tanks seem to fill at the same pace, then the sub tank will be full and click off the pump via back pressure and it won’t let me fuel more into the main. So I can put in about 20 gal max. So I typically just fill up when the. Main tank is at 1/2. If I am less than 1/2 and need to put in every last drop, then 10 min idling in the gas station will transfer over all the sub tank contents and I can then refill the sub. Usually this can be overlapped with a bathroom break or meal stop, so it isn’t that big a deal. Crops up once or twice a year. Definitely not around town, usually when I want to be max full before a long trail weekend, and usually time pressure isn’t an issue then.

Otherwise, functionally it works with absolutely no drama.

 

[unclemat]

There have been two installs I know of.

I am having an ongoing fail of the charcoal canister self test. Either my wire extension broke so it isn’t powering the canister valves or I lost the seal on the input evap hose to my canister relo. It’s a non issue except every three ir four days I have to reset codes on start, which takes about 30 seconds.

I tried sealing the hose a new way this weekend, too soon to get aFailed self test to see if it worked. I dropped one of the green evap clips and couldn’t find it . . . Like six months ago. Definitely not a very big issue, I didn’t even try to fix it for 6 months.

The other small issue is that the tanks seem to fill at the same pace, then the sub tank will be full and click off the pump via back pressure and it won’t let me fuel more into the main. So I can put in about 20 gal max. So I typically just fill up when the. Main tank is at 1/2. If I am less than 1/2 and need to put in every last drop, then 10 min idling in the gas station will transfer over all the sub tank contents and I can then refill the sub. Usually this can be overlapped with a bathroom break or meal stop, so it isn’t that big a deal. Crops up once or twice a year. Definitely not around town, usually when I want to be max full before a long trail weekend, and usually time pressure isn’t an issue then.

Otherwise, functionally it works with absolutely no drama.

Awesome, I just re-read the thread!

Can I ask for one clarification? Re the part number of the fuel pump assembly. The part appears to be a valid USA part, is it same part but different assembly? That would be unusual.

Also which parts required to modify the existing assembly to add venturi, I did not see this explained clearly.

This is a daunting project, but looks doable, so might do it. I am bit disappointed about the spare being like 2 inch down from standard location. I thought the tank fit above the existing spare location. 2 inches down might negate quite a bit of departure angle I plan to get from my swing-less Slee rear bumper I need yet to install.

Much appreciated!

 

[FerrisBueller]

@unclemat Yes, it is a different assembly. I don't think anyone has been able to find just the individual venturi parts sold separately. You will likely need to purchase the entire assembly. For ROW, there are two fuel pump options, one with and one without the venturi stuff for the subtank. Looking up the parts on partsouq makes it somewhat more convenient to keep part numbers straight since it shows the full diagrams, including when the subtank is present vs not present.

 

[grinchy]

@AcmeSys - did you complete your install ?

 

[lx200inAR]

Wonder if you can fit that box where the SAIS pumps normally go in the passenger fender well? I removed mine recently and there's a ton of room in there. There's also already a pathway for a couple hoses where the SAIS hoses go from the top of the motor to the fender well. You'd have to bypass your SAIS to use this spot, but a lot of us have already done that.

 

[Casual Cruiser]

Awesome, I just re-read the thread!

Can I ask for one clarification? Re the part number of the fuel pump assembly. The part appears to be a valid USA part, is it same part but different assembly? That would be unusual.

Also which parts required to modify the existing assembly to add venturi, I did not see this explained clearly.

This is a daunting project, but looks doable, so might do it. I am bit disappointed about the spare being like 2 inch down from standard location. I thought the tank fit above the existing spare location. 2 inches down might negate quite a bit of departure angle I plan to get from my swing-less Slee rear bumper I need yet to install.

Much appreciated!

I am considering this subtank but plan to do a body lift of 1.5" in advance to mitigate the spare dropping so far. Also may make installing the charcoal canister in the wing area easier for me in a land cruiser.

 

[grinchy]

I am considering this subtank but plan to do a body lift of 1.5" in advance to mitigate the spare dropping so far. Also may make installing the charcoal canister in the wing area easier for me in a land cruiser.

And it’ll make fitting the filler no problem too.