Thanks for the synopsis LOL. Just to confirm, you still need two fillers correct?
Factory sub tank - sourcing and fitment discussion (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter grinchy
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Thanks for the synopsis LOL. Just to confirm, you still need two fillers correct?
- Thread starter
- #322
THere is one hole in the filler to put gas in.
There is a y bung a few inches down that runs into the sub tank.
Then the end of the filler goes into the main tank.
If one had a split fillers (two holes to put gas in), that would also work.
- Thread starter
- #324
Eek. I don’t remember. I know for the sender I went in at the grommet behind the rear wheel on driver side.
Probably ran the canister up the tunnel behind the heat shielding as much as possible. I do remember putting it in a corrugated abrasion split tube.
Probably ran the canister up the tunnel behind the heat shielding as much as possible. I do remember putting it in a corrugated abrasion split tube.
I was thinking of making it follow the hard fuel lines as much as possible (which I think mostly go up the tunnel as you said), but they do go awfully close to the hot exhaust pipes. I have corrugated loom for the cable, so maybe that helps keep the heat at bay. The cable is also external, weather-rated cable for temperatures up to 105 C (higher than most cables), so I think it should be okay as long as it hugs those fuel lines. Just a bit paranoid, though.
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- #326
Yeah I hate running stuff by the manifolds and headers, but there isn’t any other outside option. It is t too hard to tuck it behind the heat shields.
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- #327
Spent the afternoon making a 36AH size hole in the right front. Moved the charcoal canister back parallel with the air box. Had to remake the brackets and move the PS reservoir over to the radiator.
The PS reservoir isn't quite installed yet, but I've trimmed the bracket and identified where the hole needs to go for the nutsert.
I also managed to drop my last green clip for the Evap hoses. If i recall they aren't available separately, so i've got a zip tie in the channel for now, and it seems to be holding it fine. Guess we'll find out next self test.
This new position has slightly better bend radius for the evap connection and much better for the electrical.
I've got about 4.5 wide, 7.5 long, and 8.5 tall for the 36AH.
The PS reservoir isn't quite installed yet, but I've trimmed the bracket and identified where the hole needs to go for the nutsert.
I also managed to drop my last green clip for the Evap hoses. If i recall they aren't available separately, so i've got a zip tie in the channel for now, and it seems to be holding it fine. Guess we'll find out next self test.
This new position has slightly better bend radius for the evap connection and much better for the electrical.
I've got about 4.5 wide, 7.5 long, and 8.5 tall for the 36AH.
I just ordered the parts for this- thanks for the details and parts list. I did find there is another PN for the filler and shows in stock at several UAE vendors- 7720160E80 that looks like the correct setup for the sub tank install. Cost was ~1000 for the parts and ~500 for the shipping to the US
- Thread starter
- #329
Nice find! $100 plus shipping and a stocked part will be a boon for future installs
FYSA- I think there there is a minor typo/transposition on two PNs in the list-
Tube Sub-assy, Fuel 77108-60160 ***SHOULD BE 77018-60160?
Tube Sub-Assy, Fuel 77108-60170 ***SHOULD BE 77018-60170?
- Thread starter
- #331
You are correct, I just looked up my order with Partsouq. I’ll go fix the original post. I hope this didn’t cause too much issue!
Can I get a clarification here? 77020-60372 part number is available in USA. Are we saying the ROW part has the venturi, but USA one does not, despite having the same part #?
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- #334
There have been two installs I know of.
I am having an ongoing fail of the charcoal canister self test. Either my wire extension broke so it isn’t powering the canister valves or I lost the seal on the input evap hose to my canister relo. It’s a non issue except every three ir four days I have to reset codes on start, which takes about 30 seconds.
I tried sealing the hose a new way this weekend, too soon to get aFailed self test to see if it worked. I dropped one of the green evap clips and couldn’t find it . . . Like six months ago. Definitely not a very big issue, I didn’t even try to fix it for 6 months.
The other small issue is that the tanks seem to fill at the same pace, then the sub tank will be full and click off the pump via back pressure and it won’t let me fuel more into the main. So I can put in about 20 gal max. So I typically just fill up when the. Main tank is at 1/2. If I am less than 1/2 and need to put in every last drop, then 10 min idling in the gas station will transfer over all the sub tank contents and I can then refill the sub. Usually this can be overlapped with a bathroom break or meal stop, so it isn’t that big a deal. Crops up once or twice a year. Definitely not around town, usually when I want to be max full before a long trail weekend, and usually time pressure isn’t an issue then.
Otherwise, functionally it works with absolutely no drama.
Awesome, I just re-read the thread!
Can I ask for one clarification? Re the part number of the fuel pump assembly. The part appears to be a valid USA part, is it same part but different assembly? That would be unusual.
Also which parts required to modify the existing assembly to add venturi, I did not see this explained clearly.
This is a daunting project, but looks doable, so might do it. I am bit disappointed about the spare being like 2 inch down from standard location. I thought the tank fit above the existing spare location. 2 inches down might negate quite a bit of departure angle I plan to get from my swing-less Slee rear bumper I need yet to install.
Much appreciated!
@unclemat Yes, it is a different assembly. I don't think anyone has been able to find just the individual venturi parts sold separately. You will likely need to purchase the entire assembly. For ROW, there are two fuel pump options, one with and one without the venturi stuff for the subtank. Looking up the parts on partsouq makes it somewhat more convenient to keep part numbers straight since it shows the full diagrams, including when the subtank is present vs not present.
Wonder if you can fit that box where the SAIS pumps normally go in the passenger fender well? I removed mine recently and there's a ton of room in there. There's also already a pathway for a couple hoses where the SAIS hoses go from the top of the motor to the fender well. You'd have to bypass your SAIS to use this spot, but a lot of us have already done that.
I am considering this subtank but plan to do a body lift of 1.5" in advance to mitigate the spare dropping so far. Also may make installing the charcoal canister in the wing area easier for me in a land cruiser.
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- #340
And it’ll make fitting the filler no problem too.
