Factory sub tank - sourcing and fitment discussion

[grinchy]

Wonder if you can fit that box where the SAIS pumps normally go in the passenger fender well? I removed mine recently and there's a ton of room in there. There's also already a pathway for a couple hoses where the SAIS hoses go from the top of the motor to the fender well. You'd have to bypass your SAIS to use this spot, but a lot of us have already done that.

Yes, that would be a great relo place for the evap canister, assuming SAIS wasn’t using it.

 

[unclemat]

I am considering this subtank but plan to do a body lift of 1.5" in advance to mitigate the spare dropping so far. Also may make installing the charcoal canister in the wing area easier for me in a land cruiser.

Yeah, but I wonder what other pandora box of issues a body lift brings... But indeed having the subtank and keeping the spare in the same location vs. the frame sounds nice.

 

[unclemat]

The damn charcoal canister relocation is really the worst aspect of this mod. The OEM is yuuge. Really not great spot for it. Like the engine bay spot on the passenger side is where I need to put another battery.

If only the smaller Aussie one could be made to work. Does any one have access to Aussie wiring diagrams?

EDIT: it does not look like it has any electrical connections? Is VSV separate on these?

EDIT #2: It seems it just has a simple check valve on a separate hose before the vent.

 

[unclemat]

Idea of yanking SAIS pumps is interesting.

Yes, that would be a great relo place for the evap canister, assuming SAIS wasn’t using it.

The idea of yanking SAIS completely is certainly very interesting. But we do know not for sure if the big ass canister would actually fit there...

 

[grinchy]

If you don’t have a snorkel in that right fender then I think the evap can would fit with the SAIS pumps. Unfortunately to find out by measuring, you have to pull the tire and the wheel liner, which would take an hour.

You can also reduce the canister size by removing the solenoids and whatnot, that’s what the GX sub tank installer @Toyoland66 did if I recall.

As far as second batteries, I am running a second battery next to the relocated canister, kind of. It’s a 20AH lithium cranking battery for a motorcycle. I have a group 31 supercap in the left hand battery position. But yes, no chance a group 24 or similar would fit if you use that front right space for the canister.

It may be the canister could be made to fit between the firewall and the air box, I don’t think I looked at that spot long enough.

You have a TLC @unclemat ? Why not the right rear wing?

 

[unclemat]

If you don’t have a snorkel in that right fender then I think the evap can would fit with the SAIS pumps. Unfortunately to find out by measuring, you have to pull the tire and the wheel liner, which would take an hour.

You can also reduce the canister size by removing the solenoids and whatnot, that’s what the GX sub tank installer @Toyoland66 did if I recall.

As far as second batteries, I am running a second battery next to the relocated canister, kind of. It’s a 20AH lithium cranking battery for a motorcycle. I have a group 31 supercap in the left hand battery position. But yes, no chance a group 24 or similar would fit if you use that front right space for the canister.

It may be the canister could be made to fit between the firewall and the air box, I don’t think I looked at that spot long enough.

You have a TLC @unclemat ? Why not the right rear wing?

Yeah, TLC (two). I do not know it will fit with the Slee aluminum swingless bumper. Looks like @FerrisBueller could not find a good spot there either with his E&E/chop bumper (on a TLC).

 

[grinchy]

Another spot it would fit is the left side behind the fuse box. I had a air compressor there but If I didn’t that would be a great location for it, right next to the solenoid on the intake, too.

 

[unclemat]

Another spot it would fit is the left side behind the fuse box. I had a air compressor there but If I didn’t that would be a great location for it, right next to the solenoid on the intake, too.

Yeah, that's where I am going to mount the compressor, too, so no go.

I am really intrigued about the SAIS pump location. I think valley leak repair might be in my future, this could be a good opportunity to yank SAIS and don't worry about it crapping out at an inconvenient time. I have a spare charcoal canister. May experiment with fitting the real thing there when I get to it. I won't happen quick, though...

EDIT: Just eyeballing a picture of the air pumps location, I have doubts the damn canister from hell will fit it in there, especially with an aftermarket bumper (I will be putting on Rival4x4 front bumper). But we shall see.

 

[lx200inAR]

What are the dimensions of the canister. I can check how much space is where the pumps are. I still have the fender apart.

 

[unclemat]

What are the dimensions of the canister. I can check how much space is where the pumps are. I still have the fender apart.

I am not anywhere near my spare canister, so can't help ya.

 

[grinchy]

5x9x14? Just guessing.

 

[unclemat]

I see that a canister out of a recent Corolla has an identical 8-pin connector (7-pins present) and overall similar shape, but much shallower. I may volunteer and check if that thing works correctly in the 200. Part # 7774002220. If it does, it should be pretty easy to fit it somewhere in the rear. Or even relocate the engine bay, but have easier time fitting it there. That higher mounting position in the engine bay can have benefits.

 

[unclemat]

The simple dpdt switch works just fine. I did end up having a loose connector, but another turn on the crimper fixed it. No issues after several tanks of fuel. It is a bummer that it has to be physically switched, but it's completely functional.

I do note that the combination meter doesn't query the fuel level very frequently. It seems to take a stop, or a brake, or some other control event to get the gauge to reread. Then it'll do the slow sweep to the new level. It always will check on a restart.

Would recommend this as a simple, easy, inexpensive solution to future adopters of the OEM sub tank.

@grinchy, can you elaborate how you wired the sensors? Obviously you had to run harness from the sub tank to the cabin, and so from the main tank. Then where did you wire the output? Back to the middle of the car where the main tank factory harness is?

Do you part numbers/source for the connectors (and pins) to build such a harness? Sorry if you posted and I missed it.

Also part # for the generic switch? I would want to follow your steps and install the switch. Seems simplest/most robust.

 

[unclemat]

Sorry for mass bombing this thread with questions, but I am confused about the fuel pump venturi business. Can someone ELI5 to me? Thanks!

The listed fuel part assembly number 7702060372 is strangely available from U.S. dealers and even on for cheap Amazon (not that I would run that). From the pictures I can't tell any difference vs. the stock assembly (7702060342).

EDIT: Never mind, I am dumb. There is the 3rd line to connects to the top of the main tank fuel pump assembly.

Just so strange it is available in the US. No vehicle should using it AFAIK. Maybe an omission in Toyota parts inventory system.

 

[FerrisBueller]

Just so strange it is available in the US. No vehicle should using it AFAIK. Maybe an omission in Toyota parts inventory system.

Those US websites might say it's available, even if it's not. It's probably worth finding out for sure. It would be convenient to be able to order some parts from the US.

 

[FerrisBueller]

You definitely need to leave an extra few inches for hose turn radius where the hoses exit.

 

[lx200inAR]

Does the canister come out as easy as disconnecting those three hoses and that one wire clip and then unbolting? I was thinking about making a cardboard box or something, but if it's that easy to remove, i can just take mine down and see if it fits in the wheel well.

 

[grinchy]

Does the canister come out as easy as disconnecting those three hoses and that one wire clip and then unbolting? I was thinking about making a cardboard box or something, but if it's that easy to remove, i can just take mine down and see if it fits in the wheel well.

Yes, it’s easy to remove . Just make sure to pull the green clips only a little past half way and not all the way out.

 

[grinchy]

So I walked out to the street and measured my evap can. I got about 4 1/2 x 8 1/2 by 14. The length is really around 12, but the hose bend radius runs out to 13 1/2 at least.

It was just barely daylight, so that depth measurement at 8 1/2" is notional, but not far off. These aren't micrometer measurements, but also it's not appreciably smaller.

edit @FerrisBueller posted pics above at 3 1/2 x 7 1/2 by 12 (but do allow a couple inches for hose bend on top of that 12)

 

[grinchy]

You definitely need to leave an extra few inches for hose turn radius where the hoses exit.

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I didn't see you post, thanks for putting up the pics