Factory sub tank - sourcing and fitment discussion (2 Viewers)

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Full replace.



Either option uses the venturi bits. The full pump replacement replaces the original pump (that doesn't have the venturi) with a pump that has it. The rebuild just retrofits the venturi bits into the original pump, presumably cheaper.

Thanks for the synopsis LOL. Just to confirm, you still need two fillers correct?
 
Thanks for the synopsis LOL. Just to confirm, you still need two fillers correct?
THere is one hole in the filler to put gas in.
There is a y bung a few inches down that runs into the sub tank.
Then the end of the filler goes into the main tank.

If one had a split fillers (two holes to put gas in), that would also work.
 
@grinchy what path did you route the canister's wire / cable extension under the vehicle?
 
Eek. I don’t remember. I know for the sender I went in at the grommet behind the rear wheel on driver side.

Probably ran the canister up the tunnel behind the heat shielding as much as possible. I do remember putting it in a corrugated abrasion split tube.
 
Eek. I don’t remember. I know for the sender I went in at the grommet behind the rear wheel on driver side.

Probably ran the canister up the tunnel behind the heat shielding as much as possible. I do remember putting it in a corrugated abrasion split tube.

I was thinking of making it follow the hard fuel lines as much as possible (which I think mostly go up the tunnel as you said), but they do go awfully close to the hot exhaust pipes. I have corrugated loom for the cable, so maybe that helps keep the heat at bay. The cable is also external, weather-rated cable for temperatures up to 105 C (higher than most cables), so I think it should be okay as long as it hugs those fuel lines. Just a bit paranoid, though.
 
Yeah I hate running stuff by the manifolds and headers, but there isn’t any other outside option. It is t too hard to tuck it behind the heat shields.
 
Spent the afternoon making a 36AH size hole in the right front. Moved the charcoal canister back parallel with the air box. Had to remake the brackets and move the PS reservoir over to the radiator.

The PS reservoir isn't quite installed yet, but I've trimmed the bracket and identified where the hole needs to go for the nutsert.

I also managed to drop my last green clip for the Evap hoses. If i recall they aren't available separately, so i've got a zip tie in the channel for now, and it seems to be holding it fine. Guess we'll find out next self test.

This new position has slightly better bend radius for the evap connection and much better for the electrical.

I've got about 4.5 wide, 7.5 long, and 8.5 tall for the 36AH.

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