Factory sub tank - sourcing and fitment discussion (1 Viewer)

[grinchy]

Canister Connector extension.
I used Ethernet cable. I think it would be better to use stranded cable if you can source it. 7 conductors are required.
There are two blue wires. Pin 9 is one, this is connected to a the engine bay fuse box 7.5a efi no. 2 fuse. So the blue wire that traces to that fuse is what you should connect to pin 9. The other blue wire is connected to pin 4.
Double check!
Cut it at back. Connect to your run wire of at least 25 feet.
Connect the pigtail upfront.
Tedious but not hard.
I chose to run this along the side of the engine bay, then along the front support to the canister.

 

[grinchy]

Canister fully installed

 

[MTKID]

Wow! I love that you squeezed the evap canister into the engine compartment
Next you should just eliminate it altogether

 

[grinchy]

Wow! I love that you squeezed the evap canister into the engine compartment
Next you should just eliminate it altogether

I would if I could. An evap code cancels 4lo and my AHC height, as well as the center diff. It’s ridiculous. I hope it still works post move.

 

[grinchy]

Sender wires.
These I routed up into the body using the left rear grommet. Then along the rear quarter and under the sills to the front. The random 14g speaker wire I had was fine , if way too much gauge.
At the front I found that EK1 had the 2nd sub tank sender pins and in positions 4 and 5, as well as the wires brown and green going to the gauge cluster.
this was amazing news, so I went ahead and cut those and soldered in the run from the back.
No news yet if it works, will need to put in some fuel and watch capacity. If it doesn’t, I’ll go ahead and set the switch up on pins 6 and 7 (black and yellow) as discussed earlier in this thread.

 

[grinchy]

Replacing the fuel pump assembly with one that has the siphon

Release the fuel pressure
Remove the engine room relay block cover.

(c) Remove the circuit opening relay (C/OPN).

(d) Start the engine. After the engine has stopped on its own, turn the engine switch off.

HINT:

If DTC P0230 is output, clear the DTC

(e) Crank the engine, then check that the engine does not start.

(f) Loosen the fuel tank cap, then discharge the pressure in the fuel tank completely.

(g) Disconnect the cable from the negative (-) battery terminal.

Use a tool to loosen the retaining ring. I got a generic one off Amazon for $20. As the hole is smaller than the retaining ring, the fancy fixed size tools won't work, you need to be able to 'tilt' the legs to get it loose. I achieved this by loosening the bolts so the had some play.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004FDL3BS?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

As expected it was very tight and required a pipe on top of the breaker bar.

I was paranoid about losing the electrical, so i tied it off, this proved to be unnecessary and it stayed available toward the right door.
The ring can be pushed toward the right door as well.
The two existing hoses got pushed toward the back.

The little yellow clips did not break, but I bought new ones and used those instead. They cost $1.50 each. I suggest buying at least one extra in case you break or lose 1. I lost one on reassembly.

I then cut the sheet metal in 5 places about 1/2" and bent it up using pliers.
Then you can pull out the pump assembly.

Pick out the old gasket and install a new gasket. coat with fuel.

Put in the pump assembly - you can rebuild with the new siphon parts or order a full new assembly. After looking at it a rebuild should be quite achieveable, but I have a high mile rig so went ahead and got a new pump.

Reattach the ring. make sure to line up the slot toward front of vehicle and make sure to keep it under tension until the ring is tight.

Reattach the two existing hoses. Feed the new hose up from the sloping back of the main fuel tank. It goes over the crossmember. Shove it as far as you can from below.
Then reach it from inside the fuel pump access. pull it up and insert.

Reattach the electrical.

Bend the material back into shape. Reflash with new butyl tape. I chose to heat mine some to make it more pliable. Stick the lid on.

 

[grinchy]

Attach the Fuel siphon between tanks.

Put in the hardline. I suggest putting this second, right after inserting the new filler hardline / assembly. I inserted it last, and with all the other connections in place it was a real pain to get it in place. The hardline goes from the cross member to the next crossmember, about 24".f

Attach to the 8mm hose off the sub tank using the pluck to clamp hose clamp.
Attach to the new fuel line just installed. Clean off any tape BEFORE you get the hardline in place. The blue plastic thing is a plug, not part of the assembly. Push it in, push in the grey lock.

You're done!

 

[grinchy]

Non Toyota parts
*not, what I actually used or did, but what I should have used and done
sizing for hose is inside diameter

hose
5/16” fuel hose - 25 foot roll - used for manifold to canister. Used for hardline to canister. Need approximately 20 feet
9/16” fuel hose - 3” - adapt new filler vent to cut off main vent
3/4” fuel hose (or evap rated heater hose) 3 feet - adapt 5/16” post hardline to evap canister fitting size, use to extend ai filter post canister

Brass or stainless hose barbs
5/8” to 1/4” coupler - two - vent to filler adapter, evap main to sub tank evap purple
5/16” to 3/4” coupler right angle - one, canister evap adapt from 5/16” hose post hardline to evap canister fitting size of 3/4”

clamps
get a variety to fit 1/4”, 5/16”, 9/16” and 3/4”

split loom
sizes to fit the outside diameter of your hoses and wires

electrical
25 feet of 7conductor stranded, gauge can be 22 or 20 for the canister connection
20 feet of 2 conductor stranded, gauge can be 20 or so, for the fuel sender
a way to make connections

hose run detail
Vents, starting with main tank vent
main tank vent 6mm - cut toward end where fancy fitting is, cut at the small diameter, not the flared fitting diameter
1/4” brass barb into main tank vent.
5/8” brass barb into short piece of 9/16” hose then onto 14mm filler hard pipe
toyota vent hose filler to sub tank
toyota vent hose sub tank to new filler

evap, starting with main tank evap
main tank evap 15mm - cut AFTER first joint. No need to undo the green clamp. Cut at the flat place to make clamping easier.
5/8” brass barb into evap hose
1/4” brass barb into purple Toyota evap hose into subtank
green Toyota evap hose out of subtank
fit green evap hose to previous manifold hardline
(now in engine bay)
fit 5/16” fuel,hose to manifold hardline
fit 5/16” brass barb to fuel hose approx 8 feet
fit 3/4” brass barb to 3/4” hose 2” piece
join to charcoal canister fitting

filler
Main tank filler hose stretched onto new filler pipe
Sub tank new filler hose from new filler neck

canister to manifold, in engine bay
5/16” fuel hose on manifold valve, approx 8 feet
5/16” fuel hose on canister fitting

canister to air filter
3/4” hose on canister
3/4” hose on airfilter

 

[grinchy]

Install order
its a complicated install requiring fabrication and some interior disassembly, with a significant time investment. The car isn’t usable during install. I think , maybe four.

Main work packages
Relocate charcoal canister - 2 to 4 hours including bracket work Tlc can put in right rear wing. Lx570 to the engine bay. It will also fit under the sub tank.
Beta: the green evap clips pull up a bit more than halfway, then the hoses can be separated. If you remove the clip it will break at least one leg
The evap hoses are 5/8” inside diameter
To replace the hoses use 3/4” Id, the fittings are flared So the canister pipe is larger
If you relo to the engine bay repurpose the stock manifold hardline to use as the evap run forward. It uses 5/16” hose.

Remove interior - 2 to 4 hours, depends how many times you've done it before
beta : to get to the fuel pump you have to pull the middle row seats. This exposes two body mounts and a third in the center. It is not much more to expose the front floorboard body Mounts. You’ll be pulling the rear quarters to run wire and fix the fuel filler latch (if replacing the filler shield) that exposes the last two body mounts at back. The front mounts by the radiator can be loosened from outside.

Set up for temporary body lift - 1 hour

Remove Filler - 1 hour
beta: the vent connection is very difficult to remove from the stock filler hardline. Suggest just cutting it and then removing the junction with the filler. Cut it at before it flares for the fitting, but keep as long as you can. Not too critical as you control the length of the adapt 9/16” hose to go from stock vent line to the new filler hardline. Stock vent is 6mm ID at cut point and takes a 1/4" brass barb.

Install filler and hardline(s) - 1 hour
beta: install the hardline for the sub to main tank siphon along with the filler, maybe right after

Undo body lift - 30 minutes

Replace fuel pump - 2 hours

Hang tank - 1 hour

Plumbing - 2 to 4 hours

Electrical - 2 to 6 hours (this depends a lot on your proficiency)

Refit Interior - 2 hours

 

[Toyoland66]

Awesome job, I’m excited to see if the fuel gauge works. Where did you get the pin out diagrams?

 

[grinchy]

Took it for a shakedown cruise. It’s been a month since I drove the truck, don’t remember what the fuel level was, but I don’t think it’s different.
Everything seems to work, but I didn’t fill up the sub tank as the weather took a turn for the worse and I didn’t want to be stuck outside trying to fix any issues.
I have one persistent code - check 4 wheel ahc system. I’m working on fixing my Mac tech stream and I’ll work on that, I did bump the reservoir a lot trying to get the new filler in, so might have jarred a connection loose.
No fuel related dtc.
I also completely flatted my battery (4v) so there may be some issues related to that too.

 

[tbisaacs]

Took it for a shakedown cruise. It’s been a month since I drove the truck, don’t remember what the fuel level was, but I don’t think it’s different.
Everything seems to work, but I didn’t fill up the sub tank as the weather took a turn for the worse and I didn’t want to be stuck outside trying to fix any issues.
I have one persistent code - check 5 wheel ahc system. I’m working on fixing my Mac tech stream and I’ll work on that, I did bump the reservoir a lot trying to get the new filler in, so might have jarred a connection loose.
No fuel related dtc.
I also completely flatted my battery (4v) so there may be some issues related to that too.

FWIW I had an AHC code when I ran down a battery due to alternator

 

[grinchy]

Toyota Part numbers
Assume 1, other quantity specified
The filler 77201-60B00, or 77201-60B10 or 77201-60B90. I used 77201-60B10.
The sub tank Tank Sub-Assy, Fuel 77001-60831
Fuel Pump Assembly 77020-60372
Tube Sub-Assy Fuel 77017-60550
Tube Sub-assy, Fuel 77108-60160
Tube Sub-Assy, Fuel 77108-60170
Gasket, Fuel Suction Tube Set 77169-47030
Tube Sub-Assy, Fuel 77206-60461
Hose, Fuel Tank to 77213-60320
Clip, Tube Joint 77241-33011 (3)
Tube, Fuel Main, No. 3 77253-60331
Hose, Fuel 77259-60880
Shield, Fuel Tank 77291-60120
Gasket, Fuel Tank Cap 77316-52040
Ring, Fuel Inlet Box 77371-35010
Ring, Fuel Inlet Box 77391-35020
Hose, Fuel, No.3 77419-60020
Band Sub-Assy, Fuel Tank, No.2 RH 77603-60040
Band Sub Assy, Fuel Tank, No.2 LH 77604-60040
Bolt, W/ Washer 90119-10816 (2)
Wire, Floor, No. 3 82163-60410
Gage Assy, Fuel 83320-69535
Screw, W/Washer 90159-50129 (6)
Clamp Hose 90460-46005 (2)
Clamp 90460-22001 (3)
Clip, 90959-04001
Hose, Breather 95313-13020
Clip, Hose 96135-51300
Clip, Hose 96137-41501

Ordered, but didn't use
Retainer, Fuel Pump 77144-47020
Tube, Fuel Emission 77263-60120
Tube, Fuel Emission 77263-60110
Bolt (For Automatic Transmission) 91651-B0820 (4)
Gasket 77169-32010 (siphon, one came with it)
Screw w Washer 93319-A4010 (6) sender gauge came with screws

Total Cost:
Partsouq orders with freight (tank, pump, all the rest of stuff) - $1240. (Note if you rebuild your fuel pump should be $300 less)
Filler from Australia - $180.
Tools, hose, clamps, brass barbs - $150 (estimated, it was less than I thought it would be). Note that if you reuse the manifold hardline this is $40 less)
$1200 to $1570 (includes tax, freight, incidentals)

Time - Car down for four weeks, I estimate 40 - 50 hours total. Doing it again I think it's a full weekend project (15 hours?). I assume it'll go a lot faster now that the recipe is in place. I spent literal days working on stuff that now can be done in a couple hours (example spent six hours trying to fit new filler, when with body lift took 15 min. Running hose to engine bay vs using hardline - 4 hours probably saved. Trying to find a place for the charcoal canister - 4 hours saved. Just cutting off the vent fitting instead of trying to remove it and inventing a tool to do so - 6 hours, Knowing it will work so don't have to make everything reversible, 6 hours.)

 

[TheIcemanCometh]

I have followed your adventure and nice to see it all come together. I like that OEM tank is gravity fed and does not require a separate pump.

My one question is that you made several modifications. Were all of those due the fact that you were adapting it to a Lexus? That is if doing this on an North American LC would such an install be straight forward? I know the gauge would not be readable without a modification.

 

[grinchy]

I have followed your adventure and nice to see it all come together. I like that OEM tank is gravity fed and does not require a separate pump.

My one question is that you made several modifications. Were all of those due the fact that you were adapting it to a Lexus? That is if doing this on an North American LC would such an install be straight forward? I know the gauge would not be readable without a modification.

The sub tank is not gravity, it uses the main tank fuel pump to create a siphon effect and this pumps fuel from the sub to the main. This is due to regulations that fuel tanks can only draw fuel from the top.
There are some fittings that are cut (the main tank vent). This can be restored if necessary with a 1/4” dual barb.
The evap canister is cut after the first joint, so a new hose could be ordered, or it can be repaired with a dual 5/8” barb.
A TLC would be easier to fit as the rear right wing is open space to pivot the filler tube into, possibly avoiding the body lift. And after filler is fit, the charcoal can can be moved there. Extending the charcoal canister for this short distance may avoid the electrical extension for the canister.

 

[grinchy]

Clearing the DTCs I had.

C1718 Pressure Sensor Circuit Malfunction - connector e2
C1719 Oil Temperature Sensor Circuit Malfunction - Connector e1

Both of these are AHC codes
Both have check connector/circuit then replace AHC ECU as resolution steps

I looked at the connector chart and it is the red items in the attached image. I remember the connector where the red and yellow join well, I undid it to make sure it didn't pull out during the body lift. Both e1 and e2 run off this connector, so I was pretty sure what the issue was going to be. It was either not reconnected (doh!) or not firmly seated.

On visual connection it was connected; so I pulled it open and reinserted firmly.

Quick restart confirmed that the MID no longer is displaying the error.

Simple fix and this was not related to the sub tank in any way, just normal stuff that could happen during an install.

 

[grinchy]

Fills up good.
No click offs in 23 gallons delivered.

Sub tank Sender isn’t measured.

No change in full range calculations and gauge was at half full before adding 23 gallons. Total Capacity Around 36 gallons confirmed.

price of gas is up!

 

[grinchy]

most important no fuel on ground !

 

[tbisaacs]

Way to go!!

 

[grinchy]

Way to go!!