Factory sub tank - sourcing and fitment discussion (1 Viewer)

[grinchy]

Body mount locations - total 9. They all have the same round thin plastic pop off cover. There are two at very front, two at very back, and one under each door.
Body mount bolt 17mm. Nut 17 mm. hex end on four of eight 9mm.
Beware. There is a 9th in the middle of the 2nd row that bolts into the crossmember - 14mm
I couldn't find torque but internet says 50 ft lbs is typical.

*Edit - I just found two more body mounts at the very outside rear corners. I, uh, missed these? The top of them can be accessed by removing the rear quarter interior trim. I'm gonna go tighten the other 7 and see if I really screwed something up here*

*Further edit - all retorqued and I might have 1/8" twist in that right rear. It does explain why the body didn't lift very easy . All the doors and tailgate and hatch seem the same as far as clearance and open shut, so whatever I messed up isn't too big a deal*

 

[grinchy]

Replaced the fuel rubbers and hoop clips. Had to disassemble the right rear interior and pull the subwoofer for access to fuel release door wire to complete install of the rubber around the release pin mount.
pop the white center out from inside. Go outside and pull the black part out. Put in new rubber and hoop clips. Put the black part in. Go back inside and insert white portion. Then back outside to twist black part 90deg using pliers

 

[grinchy]

Prepping to exchange the fuel pump assemblies

 

[grinchy]

Got the new filler joined to the old us spec filler hose.
Tried heat gun, didn’t quite get there. Filled a travel mug with water from our hot tap (170 degrees f). Shoved end of filler hose in that for one min. Was able to get it on Immediately after. Retightened existing clamp to 1/4” from previous stop point.

 

[grinchy]

Assembled and installed vent adaption for main gas tank to new filler hard pipe.
*note this is not easily reversible - you cut off the end of the existing vent fitting clamp to put it back (return to stock) you need a double 6mm brass barb coupler. The vent tube can only be replaced by buying a new main fuel tank. Proceed with caution.*

14mm to 6mm. This fitting does not exist that I could find.
Used 9/16” fuel rated rubber hose
Used 5/8” to 1/4” brass barb coupler. The stock hose is nylon and is quite stiff. Was able to get in on the slightly oversize 1/4” barb after high temp low speed air gun for 30 seconds.
Also had to heat gun the 9/16” hose to get it on the brass barb, and to get it over the ridge on the metal filler fitting.

 

[MTKID]

This image might help explain your description for body mount locations. Someone else had posted it I think a while ago, so I saved it. But it doesn’t show the 9th middle bolt and the locations labeled #5 don’t have bolts through the body. They’re more like overload supports.

Good progress today!

 

[grinchy]

This image might help explain your description for body mount locations. Someone else had posted it I think a while ago, so I saved it. But it doesn’t show the 9th middle bolt and the locations labeled #5 don’t have bolts through the body. They’re more like overload supports.

Good progress today!

View attachment 2605527

Yeah I can’t believe I missed those two very obvious mounts by the hitch crossmember. Crazy!
I’ve got a little bow down by the rear bumper on the right side. Nothing anyone who didn’t know would ever see. I expect the bulb trim will expand over a couple days and fill it.
All in the name of science.

 

[grinchy]

Prep of tank straightforward. All parts just plug in and match to color coding.
Note that the green and purple have a protector on them. After hanging the tank I think the protector should go away from the sub tank, it appears to be for abrasion against a clamp on the filler. I’m going to put on some split loom since I put thes on with protector toward the tank.
The sender includes sender bolts and gasket. The gas outlet siphon does not include bolts but it does come with a gasket.

Edit - go ahead and put the first rubber hose on the siphon / fuel output as well
Further edit: for fitting, I had to take off the filler vent and filler tube (on the right). It wouldn't go in. They are seriously hard to attach up above the frame rail. Definitely try to get them installed on the bench and rotate or twisted into place if possible. I think it would have worked to remove the exhaust. I probably should have removed the exhaust . . ..

 

[grinchy]

I had to put the tank up without the filler and filler vent due to AHC reservoir and the exhaust on the other side.
Putting on the filler and vent clamps above the frame rail was a nightmare. Probably 30 min for those four clamps. Very tight access.
This stubby 10mm ratcheting wrench was the mvp. Impossible clearances otherwise.

 

[grinchy]

The sub tank to main tank vent daisy chain.

 

[grinchy]

Tank straps not tightened yet, I forgot to put washers on

 

[grinchy]

What’s left:
Cut the stock emissions hose and adapt to the purple sub tank connection - done
Attach the green sub tank connection to the 5/8” hose that runs up front - done
Attach the 5/8” hose under the car front to back - done
Attach the canister wires under car front to back - done
Connect the canister plug to extension wires - done
Connect the 5/8” hose to canister - done
Run the canister vent - done
Connect canister to manifold - done
Run the sender wire to front dash
Depressurize the fuel system -done
Put in the siphon hoses - done
Swap the fuel pump assemblies - done
Set up switch for gauge at dash - done
Reassemble the interior - mostly done
Profit

 

[grinchy]

Had time tonight to add a couple more connections.
Attach stock emissions tank evap to sub tank purple input.
Pop up green clamp ( do not pull all the way out)
Pull evap hose apart at connection.
Ideal cut location is 8” long. I cut longer at the next flat part on the hose. Of course the hose is now too long but it doesn’t Kink anywhere so I’m rolling with it.
5/8” barb fits perfect.
Connect to purple evap on sub tank. Connect to stock factory connection. Push down stock clip.
I broke the stock clip on one leg putting the factory hose back on, I suggest a small amount of lube to aid reinsertion. Have secured it with a plastic cable tie.

 

[grinchy]

Attach rubber hose to fuel siphon.
This should really be done while prepping the tank, much easier to access the nipple and to release the clamp (it’s a fancy presprung clamp).
This fitting is right next to the purple and green fittings above the crossmember

 

[grinchy]

I’m having a rethink on how best to run the evap up front. I have routed a 5/8” id rubber hose up there, but the 1/4” metal line for the canister to manifold line is right here. The green evap hose from the sub tank would plug right onto it. Kismet right!
Then just put a coupler at the manifold to run over to the canister and back again with a new line post canister.
I guess I’ll stick with what I have routed, but this seems like low hanging fruit to simplify the install.
Global evap is all 6mm. US evap is 15mm. So I went with 15mm but maybe it doesn’t really matter?
While on this topic, if you aren’t putting the spare tire under the tank, there would be room to hang the canister under the tank. I couldn’t get a hard answer on the evap theory, it seems it isn’t gravity only, and has some pumps involved, but wasn’t willing to risk a below tank install. I think it’s pretty likely that it would be fine, particularly if the green evap line is run up into the filler neck and back down.

 

[Whiskerz]

Thanks again for doing this

 

[grinchy]

One more fitting on for the green evap hose, which runs up front.

I did try to reuse the manifold hard line to the front, but wasn’t able to make the connection in very limited space. If it was planned and done first before doing all the filler hoses I think it would be possible to make the connection m. I believe it would also work aces, the actual input at the canister is quite small.
Anyhow, I’m back on plan A.
The tank straps were also fixed for final attachment by putting a washer on the bolt.
Tank strap holes are 24” apart. The right side hole goes where you’d expect, the left side not so much.

 

[grinchy]

Air filter from canister. Swap the canister connectors and use the right angle fitting for the air filter. Cut the air filter fitting off near the filter and use a 5/8” to 5/8” barb to join. No need to clamp this is at zero pressure.
Take the bracket off and flatten it.
Put the bracket back on.
Fit the hose thru to the front area beside the radiator and zip tie it onto the existing splash shield fitting.
There are of course many ways to do this, and places to put it.

 

[grinchy]

Connect up the manifold hose.
Note: it doesn’t change this step, but I think the best solution here is to reuse the manifold hard line under the car as the green evap pipe, and then just bridge the hard line from Beside the engine over to the new canister location. Sadly I couldn’t get the green marked hose on in the back from the sub tank as I didn’t plan to make this connection. With better planning and hindsight I’d recommend doing the hardline. It avoids having to run the evap hose forward, avoids exhaust heat exposure issues that might come up is cheaper saves a bunch of time etc.
Steps
At the top of engine mid way back left side disconnect the hose from the hard line. Put a 5/16” hose on the solenoid. Run it back and along firewall, then up to the evap canister. I used about 8 feet.
I reused the two spring clamps from the small 8mm hose previously attached to the charcoal canister.
Zip tie up the no longer used hose.

 

[grinchy]

Connect up the green evap line. If you reused the hardline, transition from the 5/16” to 5/8” and reuse the straight factory evap that used to be on the air filter.
If you used the 5/8” transition from 5/8” to factory using 5/8” to 5/8” barb. Again I chose to swap the factory fitting with the air filter to enable where I put it but this could be done both ways depending on your solution.
I put the 5/8” between the engine air intake and the engine. Used about 20 feet.
Note - I couldn’t get 5/8” to stretch onto the canister fittings. A 3/4” is used for the aftermarket sub tank. So a better sizing if you don’t want to reuse the factory hose is to use 3/4” for the termination. Could also do this if the green clips were broken and not reuse able.
Best path is probably green evap from sub tank to hardline to 5/16” hose to canister to 5:16” to 3/4” barb to a short length of 3/4” hose clamped to the canister