F, 2F, 3F and 3FE rear main seal, oil pan gasket and clutch installation instructions

[orangefj45]

Thank you so much for this writeup. I have my pan off so this is perfect timing. When you say "silicone in the four corners" could I use Toyota FIPG instead? I'm not sure if silicone and FIPG are synonymous. Does Toyota FIPG still work with Permatex "copper spray gasket"?

I also noticed that in one of the last pictures before you tighten the pan bolts there is silicone in the corners between block and gasket (as you mention), as well as the gasket and the pan (not mentioned). Do you put silicone on those corners on the pan too? Or did it just ooze up there?

Thanks for the reply and questions, although I think they’ve already been answered.
In the description i mentioned “FIPG or automotive grade silicone”. So yes, FIPG works perfect and it’s compatible with the Copper spray gasket ( otherwise we wouldn’t use it ……. ).
And I believe you answered your own question about the “4 corners”.
It’s where the flat surfaces at the bottom of the block meet the rounded ends of the main caps.

Georg @ Valley Hybrids @ Cruiser Brothers

 

[Spook50]

Then I go through a number of sequences of tightening the bolts working imy way out from the middle of the pan in a zigzag fashion. I do not try to tighten the bolts all the way down right away, because I want the pan to end up perfectly parallel with the block.
This typically takes 3 to 5 cycles. You will know when the bolts are tight enough when you see the gasket barely bulging out around the bolt area.
Once you are at this point, I remove one bolt at a time in the same sequence and apply a small drop of red Loctite. It is important to do this last step to make sure the bolts do not come loose. If you put Loctite on the bolts before you install them, Then it will not help retain the bolts since it has time to dry between torque sequences.
When I put Loctite on each pole, I also mark the head of the bolts, so I know which ones have Loctite applied and have been torqued properly.
This can be a little time-consuming, but it saves time and extra work in the long run.

Georg @ Valley Hybrids @ Cruiser Brothers

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When you think you know everything, you learn something new.

This thread needs to be stickied!

 

[Spook50]

Speaking strictly from personal experience, I have never seen failure of the rear main oil seal in any F series engine unless it was damaged during or installed incorrectly.

And unless it is a fresh install, or the bolts have been locktite'd or revisited a time (or two), I have nevrr seen an F series oil pan that did not need to be tightened.
I have had a hell of a lot of people contact me "needing a new rear main oil seal"... when all they needed was an oil pan retighten.

Mark...

Something else to check under my truck this weekend. It's an oil-coated mess

 

[wngrog]

Let it drip

 

[Spook50]

Let it drip

 

[4runner2FJ60]

@orangefj45 Thank you for the knowledge sir. I'm about to do all this as well including resealing the tcase. Thanks again

 

[orangefj45]

@orangefj45 Thank you for the knowledge sir. I'm about to do all this as well including resealing the tcase. Thanks again

Thank you!

If you need any parts for the job at hand, we’re happy to help.

Georg @ Valley Hybrids @ Cruiser Brothers

 

[DoubleNickels]

Then tighten your rear main cap bolts and torque them to 58 foot pounds as per FSM

I think you transposed the numbers, maybe 85 foot pounds?

Also, this is awesome. Spray copper permatex is new to me, but I just followed your recommendations and that's the easiest pan gasket change I've ever experienced.

Where else do you use this copper spray? Should I be considering it as I reassemble the split case?

 

[orangefj45]

I think you transposed the numbers, maybe 85 foot pounds?

Also, this is awesome. Spray copper permatex is new to me, but I just followed your recommendations and that's the easiest pan gasket change I've ever experienced.

Where else do you use this copper spray? Should I be considering it as I reassemble the split case?

We only use the copper spray gasket for cork engine gaskets.

Georg @ Valley Hybrids

 

[Reuben K]

I’ve read and reread this many times this week! Installing h42 in my 91 fj80 this weekend. Cheers you’re the man Georg!

 

[Arlo89]

I got to do the oil pan job Wednesday. I had ordered a new pan and one piece gasket from Toyota for my 87 60. I used the copper permatex as described as well as the toyota fipg in the corners. I made 4 dowels as George described and got the pan installed. I had ordered new pan bolts that are a wee bit shorter than my original ones. Had trouble getting them started due to the new gasket being thicker (or at least as thick as it should be ,not collapsed like a 37 year old one) I used my new 1/4" harbor freight torque wrench and torqued the bolts to 84 in lbs but that seemed like its gonna be too much. Also blue loctite on the final torque. Waited a few days before adding oil (approx 8.2 qts per my owners manual) and started it up. Let it run for approximately 15 minutes and so far no leaks. I have a fresh piece of cardboard under to keep an eye on it. Praying I didn't over tighten the bolts. I think the service manual said between 54 to 102 in lbs. With the loctite do I need to keep checking the bolts after multiple trips( won't be driving this due to winter setting in?)

 

[Highrlr]

@orangefj45 , thank you so much for the great write up!! Man, I really wish I lived closer to your shop!!

So, when you loosen the rear main cap, are you just leaving it in place, and not re sealing it with fipg before you re install/re torque it?
I beleive the number 1 cap calls for sealant also, would you ever recommend a guy remove/reseal that one during a pan/rear main re seal?

 

[orangefj45]

I’ve never seen any evidence of factory sealant on either main cap.

 

[Highrlr]

I’ve never seen any evidence of factory sealant on either main cap.

Okay. Yeah, I'm about to do this job on a used engine i picked up. I plan on removing the bearing caps, just to inspect the bearing surfaces. I thought the idea of applying sealant seemed odd, I mean, couldn't you risk sealant squeezing into your bearing surface upon re assembly?

 

[orangefj45]

Agreed.

A small amount of sealant along the outside edges couldn’t hurt. But I wouldn’t use much ….

FWIW, we have the rear main seal‘s, will paint gaskets, will pinpoint, drain, plug gaskets, drain plugs, and other items for this job in stock at all times.
We can ship anywhere in the US and typically within one signing day of the order being placed.

Happy to help.

Georg @ Valley Hybrids
Shop 209-475-8808
Sales@valleyhybrids.com

 

[DoubleNickels]

Question for the group, and this may be too much to explain with just words. I'll try....

What is everyone's strategy for when to mount the clutch fork? If it's fully installed within the bell housing and slave cylinder, it forces you to bring in the tranny from a very high position. The alternative might be slipping the throwout bearing/fork assembly over the input shaft then bringing it all "up" together within the bell housing. Does that work?

If it works it would save me having to pull carpet out to remove the transmission tunnel cover, which is currently in place and making for an awfully tight fit and bad approach angle.

Make sense?

 

[orangefj45]

Question for the group, and this may be too much to explain with just words. I'll try....

What is everyone's strategy for when to mount the clutch fork? If it's fully installed within the bell housing and slave cylinder, it forces you to bring in the tranny from a very high position. The alternative might be slipping the throwout bearing/fork assembly over the input shaft then bringing it all "up" together within the bell housing. Does that work?

If it works it would save me having to pull carpet out to remove the transmission tunnel cover, which is currently in place and making for an awfully tight fit and bad approach angle.

Make sense?

ALWAYS install the throwout bearing and retainer onto the fork, install the fork in the BH and then slide the transmission in place.
Otherwise you’ll have a great time trying to get the TOB retainer clips in place.
Ask me how I know ……

Georg @ Valley Hybrids

 

[DoubleNickels]

OK! I'm not advocating leaving TOB/fork disassembled, just not clicking the fork's metal clips into the round "stud" inside the BH. That way it's fully assembled but allowed to float down for a hot minute.

...I'll try to add some pictures.

 

[Spook50]

Ask me how I know ……

Were you cussing in English or in Norwegian?

 

[orangefj45]

Were you cussing in English or in Norwegian?

Gottverdamte Scheisserei !!!!!

Austrian, not Norwegian!!!!