Extended front wheelbase after SOA and SR problem (1 Viewer)

alex e

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Quick question for SOA and shackle reversal guys. My wheelbase obviously grew after this procedure, and I don’t think my pitman arm will move sufficiently L & R to steer while driving around in the city easily, ie make 3pt turns and the like. I have home brew highsteer from 4x4 labs as well. What I’m trying to figure out is did I do something wrong with the steering set up? I will post a picture in as soon as I get home and would love some input from people who have this set up so I can figure out if I need to cut it all off and move everything back so bump stops line up, pitman arm can move 180, etc....the tube from tie rod end to pitman arm is out being threaded.

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1st., someone cut up your front crossmember to move the steering gear box rearward, but they did not box-in the frame where they removed half the frame, you need to get it boxed-in (i.e. replace mass that has been removed).
2nd., It might be easier to merely move the bump stop forward (i.e. re-tap holes in the frame).
3rd., it might be easier to merely use a shorter pitman arm. Steering won't react quite as quick, but you should still get full turns.
 

reddingcruiser

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Please tell me there are sleeves inside the frame to support the top bolts and allow you to torque without collapsing the frame.

If the steering gear box was higher, more parallel to the frame and slightly farther forward, you might have fewer issues.
 

alex e

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Thank you for the replies. I’ll post additional pics if that would help see additional details so I can figure this out. Everything installed was sourced from Downey back when......2002-09.
 
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So it’s not a 4x4labs setup at all. Those have the box much more level to the ground-which would get your pitman arm away from the tie rod.

The ‘Labs mount has the top bolts of the box mount both above the frame rail and the bottom two with sleeves welded up into the bottom of the rail.

if you end up pulling it off anyway, scrap the current setup, weld a patch in your crossmember and Use a Scout II or fj60/80 box. The scout is a saggy box too and with all of these boxes you get much better steering geometry-not to mention the better steering shaft clearance.
 

SNLC

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Yep, that's what I was thinking, good luck oiling that pinion bearing.


Overfill it, easy solution.

He should take a angle measurement. He should also put a laser on it and see where it lands on the t-case output.

If it's off, yes he should deal with it.

Cheers
 
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The diff angle isn’t the main issue the OP asked about. It can be solved later with whatever angle correction for the driveshaft and moving the fill port up higher like plenty of mudders have posted about doing.
 
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The diff angle isn’t the main issue the OP asked about. It can be solved later with whatever angle correction for the driveshaft and moving the fill port up higher like plenty of mudders have posted about doing.
Correct, it is not the main issue posted about, but an issue that we have identified that the OP may not know about or have taken into consideration. An issue that may/will cause issues in the future.
Moving the oil filler point may help with the lack of lubrication to the pinnion, but what is going to help the pinnion angle other than rotating the diff?
Interested to know.
 

alex e

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When running a lot of lift it’s common to rotate the knuckles (C&T) to point the pinion at the driveshaft and use a cv joint at the tcase to eliminate driveline vibes.

We did indeed cut and turned the front axle housing.......
 

offrd63

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I cut and turned mine 25 years ago, and with regular maintenance and a lot of wheel'in I still haven't seen any of those adverse affects I was warned about. :smokin:
 
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A 4x4 labs high steer kit would allow you to keep most of your setup as is. It will move the tie rod behind the axle. I'm not sure what effect the unlevel steering box will have on steering.
 

alex e

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Saginaw steering box was mounted according to convention at the time using a kit. Not sure what has changed regarding these setups but the “tilt” downward of its nose is to align its output with the steering rod angle and not bind it up.
 

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