Exhaust Manifold Gasket replacement (2 Viewers)

[Dianna]

Hi guys, I need to replace the exhaust manifold gasket in my 77 2F. I have found many posts with tips, but I was hoping there is one thread that can make my life easier tearing this apart. It looks like I'm fortunate that I have not yet had to replace it in the 20 years I have had my FJ. I'm sure quite a few of you have done this, any help is appreciated. Perhaps if there isn't a thread outlining the process, I'll create one.

 

[SteveH]

Keep searching - many threads on this.

 

[Dianna]

That's my issue, there are a bunch of threads. Was hoping for some help if someone knows of one specific thread with all of the information in it, step-by-step. I've never done this before, and I don't want to mess it up, or do it twice, by missing something.

 

[SteveH]

Get the factory manual (FSM) and read it - that's the gold standard of repair info.

It's pretty straightforward - remove the carb and linkage bits (disassembling as little as necessary), remove the exhaust collector, and then the 6 nuts/bolts holding the manifold pair to the engine. You will likely unbolt the manifolds, replace all the gaskets, put them back together, and then see how flat they sit against the engine. Either machine the manifolds, or don't, but install a new Fel Pro gasket, and then assembly is the reverse of disassembly. Take photos as you go, and look for cracks in the bottom of the intake manifold (under the carb) and elsewhere.

 

[jestlurnin]

I’ve completed 3 exhaust/Intake manifold gasket replacements on 3 different cruisers. First 2 I followed the FSM to a T and had the manifold machined together by a machine shop that does a ton of land cruiser work here in town. Torqued everything to spec and then again after a few heat up cool down cycles, all OEM parts including gasket. Both started leaking after about 5 months. 3rd one used a felpro same everything else and started leaking about the same time interval. This is a frustrating and not so easy job. I am by no means a professional mechanic but have figured most everything else out on these cruisers. My next intake/exhaust replacement is going to Willamette Blvd service center...

 

[Steamer]

Since you have headers and headers often give folks problems, you may want to search "Headers" as well. Posting pics and progress updates as you go will keep this thread closer to the top where help and tips will more likely come. Some under hood pics now before you start would be nice. Good Luck!

 

[Dianna]

After driving with this leaking for a couple summers now, it's time to start tearing it apart. I admit, I have enjoyed letting off the gas and scaring pedestrians when it backfires. If anyone has used any resources that have helped them, I would appreciate a link! I know there are a lot, but just bits and pieces. It would be great to find something all in one place! I was hoping to find a video, but still come up empty, maybe I will record my adventures as I do the repair

 

[sggoat]

So you have headers? Follow jestlurnin's advice on making sure the machine shop machines the header and intake sealing faces together, making very sure the header bolt flange and intake flange thicknesses are exactly the same.--close is NOT good enough
I would NOT use a fel-pro gasket--Toyota South Atlanta can still get the OEM gasket--AND the manifold studs(if not get a Remflex).
If you must replace ANY stud-replace them all(studs,nuts,and washers)with OEM from Toy So Atlanta -follow torque specs meticulously to minimize bolt stretch
BTW Toyota So Atlanta parts folks give a discount to MUD members--Talk to Kyle Edwards

 

[Dianna]

Thanks sggoat. I already have the Remflex gaskets. I'm recovering from surgery right now and have a week to sit around and study up on how to get this done. I'm still hoping to find a video out there somewhere!

 

[fjc-man]

Dianna, whether you or somebody else is the one who is tackling this job I just wanted to say access to all the things you’ll need to take apart and reassemble will be way easier if you take the left fender and apron off first. Instead of trying to lean over the fender and work. Your back will thank you.

 

[Toyo_Judson]

Thanks sggoat. I already have the Remflex gaskets. I'm recovering from surgery right now and have a week to sit around and study up on how to get this done. I'm still hoping to find a video out there somewhere!

This is my life within the next month. I need to pull my headers and wrap them as it is too hot in the cab during the summer. Also just noticed I am missing the front bolt for the exhaust! Watching this thread closely!

 

[sggoat]

This is my life within the next month. I need to pull my headers and wrap them as it is too hot in the cab during the summer. Also just noticed I am missing the front bolt for the exhaust! Watching this thread closely!

Not to hy jack this thread, but I would NOT wrap those headers--they dissipate way more heat than you realize. As soon as you do that, they can't get rid of the combustion heat they are subjected to, plus--you drive in the rain? you soak that wrap and your headers will be rust in no time--If your cabin is too warm, better to insulate that--preferably from the inside(assuming you have no cabin leaks).
That missing bolt/stud will eventually cause warps in the header fit-then you might get a leak--the studs are still available from Toyota--

 

[Dianna]

Toyo Judson, Maybe I'll wait for you to do yours first! Make a video! LOL

 

[thebigredrocker]

@Dianna
Are you trying to seal an OEM exhaust manifold or aftermarket header tubes?

 

[Dizzy]

There are two sizes of cylinder head manifold studs. The 2F is bigger. I have, specifically, a hex-shaped threading die to clean up the usual minor damage that is part of an original cast-iron exhaust manifold, or steel header, install and removal, or just rust, on the studs. Just like tightening head bolts to the block, a 'chased,' thread gives you a proper torque setting. A die handle won't fit between the studs, so a hex-shaped die is the perfect tool

 

[Chestcutter]

@Dianna - about to tackle this project as well starting this weekend. Will be great to compare notes. My truck has both intake and exhaust leaks - likely because one of the bolts is stripped. Planning to replace all the bolts with studs to make replacement easier.

 

[TheHardWay]

@Dianna - about to tackle this project as well starting this weekend. Will be great to compare notes. My truck has both intake and exhaust leaks - likely because one of the bolts is stripped. Planning to replace all the bolts with studs to make replacement easier.

Don't forget - lot's of pics!

 

[Chestcutter]

I just wanted to say access to all the things you’ll need to take apart and reassemble will be way easier if you take the left fender and apron off first. Instead of trying to lean over the fender and work. Your back will thank you

Hallelujah. This was the best advice I've read in a while. 20 min of work to make the rest of the day waaay easier. I may be tempted to tackle the rag joint and some other stuff while this is off.

Fender off and manifold off and (mostly) disassembled in half a Saturday afternoon. Will post pics of my project here not to hijack this thread.

Don't forget - lot's of pics!

Don't worry. I need the pics to figure out how to put it back together. Plus I have a few items I'll need some advice on from the experts.