Excessively underpowered 1HZ + poor fuel economy
- Thread starter Leitrum3
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my understanding is the older cranks were but not for the last decade or so ...
i could be wrong. if i remember it was in a manual i read years ago discussing Toyota cranks and gears.
so i guess the proper answer is "sorry, i don't know"
i could be wrong. if i remember it was in a manual i read years ago discussing Toyota cranks and gears.
so i guess the proper answer is "sorry, i don't know"
- Thread starter
- #164
Wow, I get busy and leave town for a couple days for work and look what you guys do to my build thread! 
This makes sense to me, but the only one I can think of who might be willing to test this out would be surfponto with his extra crank just laying around. I'm just too damn fond of mine.
Your words are much appreciated. It's been an incredible process and I've learned a ton with so much left to learn-- I definitely wouldn't have attempted or be where I was without this place and the generous people in it. As you've alluded to though, the title of this thread only makes sense for the first few pages when I was fumbling through mishaps on our mini expedition. I even thought about re-titling, but somehow that just felt wrong. Glad you finally checked in on the build, there's plenty left to watch!
This makes sense to me, but the only one I can think of who might be willing to test this out would be surfponto with his extra crank just laying around. I'm just too damn fond of mine.
Your words are much appreciated. It's been an incredible process and I've learned a ton with so much left to learn-- I definitely wouldn't have attempted or be where I was without this place and the generous people in it. As you've alluded to though, the title of this thread only makes sense for the first few pages when I was fumbling through mishaps on our mini expedition. I even thought about re-titling, but somehow that just felt wrong. Glad you finally checked in on the build, there's plenty left to watch!
- Thread starter
- #165
And now back to our regularly scheduled programming...
After spending Tuesday wrestling the engine onto the stand (I seriously must have bought the worst stand possible because the stand's arms barely reach the bell housing holes and I had to work it for at least an hour to get it bolted on), I got a little busy with work so not much progress. The new rings arrived yesterday so tomorrow I'll be able to drop the pistons in, but for tonight I just worked on some simple things that I could put down whenever, which included putting the oil pump back together.
This brought up a question I've been pondering but have been unable to resolve. The rebuild kit from EA comes with bags of gaskets and bags of copper/brass/aluminum washers with no directions or identification. Some of these I know, but most I'm a little at a loss to define. The two top right sets of 6 I know belong to the injectors, and I think the smaller 6 crush washers in the middle of the image also go with the injectors, but the rest I'm at a loss for. The one on the far right middle I had assumed was for the oil pump since the I.D. was the same, even if the O.D. or thickness wasn't.
And last question of the night. Can anyone say if this set screw is supposed to come out so that I can mount my boost sensor? I tested it and the threads match but thought I'd ask if there was actually some other purpose for this hole. It would be great if I didn't have to buy another tap for a single hole-- the oil return line was over $40 for the bit and tap. Ugh!
Just thinking now, I'm going to owe a lot of people beer when I'm done with this project. If anyone's ever going through Portland, let me know!
After spending Tuesday wrestling the engine onto the stand (I seriously must have bought the worst stand possible because the stand's arms barely reach the bell housing holes and I had to work it for at least an hour to get it bolted on), I got a little busy with work so not much progress. The new rings arrived yesterday so tomorrow I'll be able to drop the pistons in, but for tonight I just worked on some simple things that I could put down whenever, which included putting the oil pump back together.
This brought up a question I've been pondering but have been unable to resolve. The rebuild kit from EA comes with bags of gaskets and bags of copper/brass/aluminum washers with no directions or identification. Some of these I know, but most I'm a little at a loss to define. The two top right sets of 6 I know belong to the injectors, and I think the smaller 6 crush washers in the middle of the image also go with the injectors, but the rest I'm at a loss for. The one on the far right middle I had assumed was for the oil pump since the I.D. was the same, even if the O.D. or thickness wasn't.
And last question of the night. Can anyone say if this set screw is supposed to come out so that I can mount my boost sensor? I tested it and the threads match but thought I'd ask if there was actually some other purpose for this hole. It would be great if I didn't have to buy another tap for a single hole-- the oil return line was over $40 for the bit and tap. Ugh!
Just thinking now, I'm going to owe a lot of people beer when I'm done with this project. If anyone's ever going through Portland, let me know!
This makes sense to me, but the only one I can think of who might be willing to test this out would be surfponto with his extra crank just laying around. I'm just too damn fond of mine.
Might get a chance to do this test. The 1hdt I'm helping repair had a bad main bearing and damaged the one journal. Considered getting it machined then found 2 other bearing journals full of cracks, one looked deep so sourcing a good used crank at the moment.
A lot of the copper seals are for different applications. Looking at your set you have 1hdt injector seals there, seals for the factory turbo oil return on Hdt(ft)(fte) and others. So i assume the copper seals are a baggie for many applications.
You also have diff and transmission seals (aluminum) and the blue oil pan seal. So no worries if you don't use all of them.
Yes, use the port for the boost sensor.
J
You also have diff and transmission seals (aluminum) and the blue oil pan seal. So no worries if you don't use all of them.
Yes, use the port for the boost sensor.
J
I'll take a file to surfponto's old crank tomorrow and will let you know.
Seem like eons since I did my HD.... From memory I used all the washers and o-rings in the EA kit. 1 will be for your IP pump timing, 4 brass for vane pump connect, etc. edit: the 12 small copper lower-center are for the HD injector fuel rail, as Jan said and I think 2 brass might be for the HD turbo union bolt.
If it hasn't been said, only advice I can offer based on 100k Km's on my rebuild:
- don't use EA oil seals unless they've changed their kit to include OEM (front main/rear/cam) had to replace mine AFTER and cried
- EM-44, step 9 try not to forget to check thrust clearance when doing timing gears
- good idea to check crank pulley groove and key for play. Also to re-torque the Bolt after 100 Km's.....
Nice work man! I don't think you'll ever regret spending the time & money to learn. I didn't. Nice Gturbo and best of luck!
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- Thread starter
- #170
Playing a little catch up here-- too many late nights in the garage and no time left to post! In my mind, it's been a lot of progress, but also very slow with lots of little things left to clean, paint, etc. that I didn't think about before. Oh, and also that I'm terrified of not keeping everything clean enough so everything takes twice as long. When I read other people's builds, it seems like they're putting everything back together in a day or two, I just can't imagine.
I may have it totally wrong, but here's what I came up with for a good amount of the copper and aluminum seals that weren't part of a set of 6. These are all from the oil cooler, showing old and new together (was only missing 1, which is probably the one I used on the oil pump). It seems like I could've used another dozen or so of various sizes for all of the rest of the banjo fittings at this point, not sure why the kit doesn't include those since all of the external pipes/attachments would obviously need to come off for a rebuild. :/
Some additional items I've been chipping away at:
Ready to install the back timing case (gasket isn't in the photo, but I didn't forget it!)
For some reason I didn't dry fit this before I applied the FIPG and I couldn't get it to mate up perfectly:
And then this happened when I poured in the 10cc of oil recommended:
It's an easy fix fortunately, just a PITA to let the new FIPG cure enough to get it off.
I may have it totally wrong, but here's what I came up with for a good amount of the copper and aluminum seals that weren't part of a set of 6. These are all from the oil cooler, showing old and new together (was only missing 1, which is probably the one I used on the oil pump). It seems like I could've used another dozen or so of various sizes for all of the rest of the banjo fittings at this point, not sure why the kit doesn't include those since all of the external pipes/attachments would obviously need to come off for a rebuild. :/
Some additional items I've been chipping away at:
Ready to install the back timing case (gasket isn't in the photo, but I didn't forget it!)
For some reason I didn't dry fit this before I applied the FIPG and I couldn't get it to mate up perfectly:
And then this happened when I poured in the 10cc of oil recommended:
It's an easy fix fortunately, just a PITA to let the new FIPG cure enough to get it off.
- Thread starter
- #171
It's definitely overkill to tape this off, but did I mention I'm a little OCD about keeping everything as clean as possible? So happy to start getting stuff off the shelves and back onto the block.
Got my replacement parts from Engine Australia last Thursday so was able to really start going after stuff. After breaking the oil ring the weekend before, putting the rings on the piston was about my least favorite part of the process. It must've taken me about an hour to get the rings fitted and the first piston installed. Managed to do it so I could press the pistons in by hand, the idea of needing to tap them into the block didn't sit well for some reason. VERY gently setting these into the vice helped this process a lot, but I'm sure it's not advisable.
Totally necessary tool, but I kind of hate it. Are there alternatives to this thing?
Long day, but they're in and torqued!
Got my replacement parts from Engine Australia last Thursday so was able to really start going after stuff. After breaking the oil ring the weekend before, putting the rings on the piston was about my least favorite part of the process. It must've taken me about an hour to get the rings fitted and the first piston installed. Managed to do it so I could press the pistons in by hand, the idea of needing to tap them into the block didn't sit well for some reason. VERY gently setting these into the vice helped this process a lot, but I'm sure it's not advisable.
Totally necessary tool, but I kind of hate it. Are there alternatives to this thing?
Long day, but they're in and torqued!
- Thread starter
- #172
A grand homecoming for my IP. Safety first.
It amazes me how this thing looks practically brand new, hopefully the tuning process will be easier now that none of the bolts are fused together. When I was at the shop picking it up, I was checking it out and thought something was funny about the linkages. Checking the photos on my phone I was right, they had installed the external spring incorrectly! Thinking about it though, the linkages do seem different than most, especially with the way the kick down works.
With the IP back, it's much easier to start slapping everything together.
And like that, it's time to set the head! Pistons are clean, I swear. The shop just scuffed the ceramic tops a bit, to my great annoyance.
It amazes me how this thing looks practically brand new, hopefully the tuning process will be easier now that none of the bolts are fused together. When I was at the shop picking it up, I was checking it out and thought something was funny about the linkages. Checking the photos on my phone I was right, they had installed the external spring incorrectly! Thinking about it though, the linkages do seem different than most, especially with the way the kick down works.
With the IP back, it's much easier to start slapping everything together.
And like that, it's time to set the head! Pistons are clean, I swear. The shop just scuffed the ceramic tops a bit, to my great annoyance.
- Thread starter
- #173
Last post for the morning before I go torque the head and see if I can get nearly everything off the shelves!
The all important oil orifice. What does this do exactly?
Old vs. new. Where does this sensor go if it doesn't fit in the new water outlet?
Some misc items from the EA kit, but what are they for??
Getting everything ready for the head install, these seem okay and they check out within spec with plastigauge, they just don't look perfect like I prefer. How often do these get replaced?
When I pulled the cam out of the packaging from the machine shop, I found quite a bit of surface rust. I used some 000 steel wool with WD-40 to take it off with as minimal work as I could get away with. It came off fairly easily and looks good now, but not sure if that's cause for more than annoyance. How common is this? It's a reputable shop so this was surprising to me.
The all important oil orifice. What does this do exactly?
Old vs. new. Where does this sensor go if it doesn't fit in the new water outlet?
Some misc items from the EA kit, but what are they for??
Getting everything ready for the head install, these seem okay and they check out within spec with plastigauge, they just don't look perfect like I prefer. How often do these get replaced?
When I pulled the cam out of the packaging from the machine shop, I found quite a bit of surface rust. I used some 000 steel wool with WD-40 to take it off with as minimal work as I could get away with. It came off fairly easily and looks good now, but not sure if that's cause for more than annoyance. How common is this? It's a reputable shop so this was surprising to me.
The oil orifice limits oil flow and by that increases pressure.
There are 2 water outlets, one with and one without sensor hole (obviously
). What is wrong with the old one?Forgot what the plastic thingies are for from the kit.
The cam caps look perfectly fine. They are matched to the head, so you cannot just replace them without buying a new head. For peace of mind you could have them checked by your shop, or did they do that? Do you have a new bearing for #1?
I never liked the fact that the caps are the bearings. On the FT and FTE you actually have bearings in there....
The cam is fine. They should have coated it with oil, but with the 000 you are good.
Great work!!
plastic "things" are boots you put over the con rod bolts when installing the pistons into the block to prevent scuffing of the crank.
put them on the bolts, slide piston in hole with bolts over the crank
remove boots and move on to the next one.
put them on the bolts, slide piston in hole with bolts over the crank
remove boots and move on to the next one.
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- #176
The oil orifice limits oil flow and by that increases pressure.
There are 2 water outlets, one with and one without sensor hole (obviously
Forgot what the plastic thingies are for from the kit.
The cam caps look perfectly fine. They are matched to the head, so you cannot just replace them without buying a new head. For peace of mind you could have them checked by your shop, or did they do that? Do you have a new bearing for #1?
I never liked the fact that the caps are the bearings. On the FT and FTE you actually have bearings in there....
The cam is fine. They should have coated it with oil, but with the 000 you are good.
Great work!!
Thanks for the plethora of information as always! To answer some of your questions:
Of the two water outlets, one had the temp sensor that was never hooked up since the real temp sensor is in the head; the other had the port for the turbo. With all the effort and money I've put into this, it seemed better to go with the right part.
I agree on the cam caps, it doesn't feel right to not have any bearings except for the #1 (which I replaced as part of the Engines Austrlia kit). I didn't realize that they match the head and can only be replaced with it, so I'm glad they're still in okay condition. I did check the clearances with plastigauge and they're still within spec.
I'm well past this now, but for the record, you're supposed to put the bolts into the con rod, put the boots on, insert the piston and then remove the boots and bolts? Seems like so much work! I was able to push the pistons in by hand so I just guided things onto the crank.
I'm so close to having this done now, I put some champagne in the fridge I'd been saving. Hopefully by next weekend I'll have it in, 1 week shy of 6 months-- which is too god damned long. As great as it's been to learn everything, I hope that the next time I pull an engine it's not the only one I have!
Catching up on a few photos from last weekend, it's finally nice enough to start having the door open. At least one of us is very happy about this.
Head is in place and ready to torque down.
Torque by number make life easier.
And done. Glad to have this buttoned up.
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- #177
Got the IP in place, but with the new boost compensator, the leakage nozzle doesn't fit. Nothing a heat gun and a bench vise can't fix though.
It felt really good to get all of the injector lines off the bench and back onto the engine. Note the manifold on the pizza pan cooling in the background from the high heat paint I put on it.
Probably a waste of time, but it'll start out looking nice anyway.
A couple more shots of progress. What has really struck me is the specific order things need to go on. For instance, I completely forgot that the upper rear timing case has to go on after the water pump. So that had to come off, get cleaned up and re-installed...Worst things have happened though.
Checking the valve clearances now that I have the timing belt on. I found the crank a little tough to turn with how much the air was compressing, maybe also a sign that some of the valves were pretty far out. I managed to borrow Kevin Rowland's valve tool so hopefully I can get shims on order Monday. Two things I'm questioning with this:
- Which end of the spec is better to shoot for? .15 or .25 for example with the intake valves?
- Where is the best spot to measure the shims? Maybe it's my caliper because it's digital, but none of the measurements I took of the shims when I installed them prior to torquing the cam down actually showed an even number. Most were something like 2.73 or 2.68mm. One that measured 2.78mm actually had 2-75 printed on one side of it.
It felt really good to get all of the injector lines off the bench and back onto the engine. Note the manifold on the pizza pan cooling in the background from the high heat paint I put on it.
Probably a waste of time, but it'll start out looking nice anyway. A couple more shots of progress. What has really struck me is the specific order things need to go on. For instance, I completely forgot that the upper rear timing case has to go on after the water pump. So that had to come off, get cleaned up and re-installed...Worst things have happened though.
Checking the valve clearances now that I have the timing belt on. I found the crank a little tough to turn with how much the air was compressing, maybe also a sign that some of the valves were pretty far out. I managed to borrow Kevin Rowland's valve tool so hopefully I can get shims on order Monday. Two things I'm questioning with this:
- Which end of the spec is better to shoot for? .15 or .25 for example with the intake valves?
- Where is the best spot to measure the shims? Maybe it's my caliper because it's digital, but none of the measurements I took of the shims when I installed them prior to torquing the cam down actually showed an even number. Most were something like 2.73 or 2.68mm. One that measured 2.78mm actually had 2-75 printed on one side of it.
- Thread starter
- #178
I've been following this thread https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/gturbo-install-dan-from-okinawas-experience.794952/ and it's rather fortunate I had with the few things that have cropped up regarding this turbo install. While it may be a great turbo in the end, there are a few things which don't quite jive yet. This is one of them. The fix for now is to grind off the tube on the inside and that allows the holes to line up.
What did I do today? Installed a Mother F'ing turbo. Made my weekend.
And just so the issues that caused this rebuild to happen never happens again, a pre-turbo EGT.
Pending the arrival of my turbo stay from Japan 4x4, it was looking like I was going to get to put the engine back in the truck this weekend, until I noticed this. You can probably tell it's a little wonky from this angle.
And a little closer. WTF. Fortunately these are universal for all 80's so I'll probably be able to get one off a parts rig locally instead of $109 from Toyota or ordering from Canada, but still. Now I have to track one down. How does this even happen?!
On a side note, this is yet another piece that needs to go on in proper order, i.e. - before the turbo. Oh well.
What did I do today? Installed a Mother F'ing turbo. Made my weekend.
And just so the issues that caused this rebuild to happen never happens again, a pre-turbo EGT.
Pending the arrival of my turbo stay from Japan 4x4, it was looking like I was going to get to put the engine back in the truck this weekend, until I noticed this. You can probably tell it's a little wonky from this angle.
And a little closer. WTF. Fortunately these are universal for all 80's so I'll probably be able to get one off a parts rig locally instead of $109 from Toyota or ordering from Canada, but still. Now I have to track one down. How does this even happen?!
On a side note, this is yet another piece that needs to go on in proper order, i.e. - before the turbo. Oh well.
I've been following this thread https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/gturbo-install-dan-from-okinawas-experience.794952/ and it's rather fortunate I had with the few things that have cropped up regarding this turbo install. While it may be a great turbo in the end, there are a few things which don't quite jive yet. This is one of them. The fix for now is to grind off the tube on the inside and that allows the holes to line up.
View attachment 880389
What did I do today? Installed a Mother F'ing turbo. Made my weekend.
View attachment 880390
And just so the issues that caused this rebuild to happen never happens again, a pre-turbo EGT.
View attachment 880391
Pending the arrival of my turbo stay from Japan 4x4, it was looking like I was going to get to put the engine back in the truck this weekend, until I noticed this. You can probably tell it's a little wonky from this angle.
View attachment 880393
And a little closer. WTF. Fortunately these are universal for all 80's so I'll probably be able to get one off a parts rig locally instead of $109 from Toyota or ordering from Canada, but still. Now I have to track one down. How does this even happen?!
On a side note, this is yet another piece that needs to go on in proper order, i.e. - before the turbo. Oh well.
View attachment 880392
So damn clean... god what i'd give for the time to do this to my engine! Beautiful work. I'm glad my small contributions aided you. Any chance you've got a friend with a tig welder? It looks like that could be welded up and still be plenty stout. Just a suggestion.
Keep up the good work!
Dan
We measure the shims in the middle, as that is the contact area with the cam. With a good caliper they are pretty close to what they should be. Toyota sells them in 0.05 increments, and the thickness is accurate.
I try to aim for the middle of the range, but am happy with anything inside the range. If possible we avoid to be right on the lower or higher cutoff.
And of course measure the clearances again, once all shims are in…
great work!
I try to aim for the middle of the range, but am happy with anything inside the range. If possible we avoid to be right on the lower or higher cutoff.
And of course measure the clearances again, once all shims are in…
great work!