I'd run B100, but I'm not paying the pump price of 1.75/L....
Excessively underpowered 1HZ + poor fuel economy
- Thread starter Leitrum3
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I don't even think I can get biodiesel. Never seen it.
I think Mohawk blends biodiesel in with their diesel, that's as close as I've ever seen to retail available biodiesel around here.
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- Thread starter
- #144
Wow, I don't think I'd buy it either if it was 1.75/L. The Liter equivalent price around here is about 1.05/L in $US. Portland is the first place I've lived where it's readily available at the pump.
Sorry for sidetracking your thread!
But we used to have it here a few years back available in B5/B20/B50 and it was priced a few cents cheaper than regular diesel and was just offered at a few stations but then the government stopped waiving their extra tax for Bio-Diesel (stupid) and the price jumped and now nobody buys it.
I can still get up to B50 in North Van but the price is stupid. Makes b100 look cheap if you cut it with diesel lol
I'm really curious as to how my truck would run on it... Maybe I'll try in the summer?https://vancouverbiodiesel.org
- Thread starter
- #146
Alright, we're back on track. Picked up everything from the machine shop on Friday afternoon after they convinced me at the last minute that it was worth having everything balanced. At some point they had deemed it necessary to balance the rods and pistons (I'm not really sure I know how that works for something without an axis like a crankshaft) since they were so far out of balance so it wasn't much more to have them do everything else.
Now I have an entire weekend to start re-assembling and naturally this means more questions. There isn't a real clear guide to the turbo install, but I've managed to figure out for the most part what needs to be done. My question is more of a confirmation for the oil return line. I know there are two options for this, the first is a return into the oil pan, the second being into the block. Since everything is apart and no risk of metal filings in unwanted places, I figure I should go into the block. So, just to confirm with my upside down photo, the boss that I'm pointing at is the return location and the two to the right are for the turbo stay which also need to be tapped. This makes sense looking at it's location relating to the turbo and looking at the manual, but it's worth asking. The two holes for the support bracket will wait til the turbo is on so the holes are in the right spot, but is there anything I should know before I tap the oil return line?
Now I have an entire weekend to start re-assembling and naturally this means more questions. There isn't a real clear guide to the turbo install, but I've managed to figure out for the most part what needs to be done. My question is more of a confirmation for the oil return line. I know there are two options for this, the first is a return into the oil pan, the second being into the block. Since everything is apart and no risk of metal filings in unwanted places, I figure I should go into the block. So, just to confirm with my upside down photo, the boss that I'm pointing at is the return location and the two to the right are for the turbo stay which also need to be tapped. This makes sense looking at it's location relating to the turbo and looking at the manual, but it's worth asking. The two holes for the support bracket will wait til the turbo is on so the holes are in the right spot, but is there anything I should know before I tap the oil return line?
- Thread starter
- #147
I seriously debated whether I should mention this as it's so ridiculous I'm beside myself. Guess who didn't realize that when you're checking piston ring gap that you need to separate the coil from the oil ring? Me. And guess what happened? Yep. It snapped. 
So, I am now short 1 O/S .50 piston oil ring. Do these things only come as a complete set? I hope to god not as it's like $350 for the set. I've already sent a message to Akella since he's getting a few more things for me I'm missing but thought I'd see if anyone knew of a quick way to get one of these stateside in a hurry? Such a newbie mistake...
So, I am now short 1 O/S .50 piston oil ring. Do these things only come as a complete set? I hope to god not as it's like $350 for the set. I've already sent a message to Akella since he's getting a few more things for me I'm missing but thought I'd see if anyone knew of a quick way to get one of these stateside in a hurry? Such a newbie mistake...
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- #149
Sounds like something I would do. Good luck and thanks for posting about this as you have probably saved me from the same fate!
I literally had dreams (nightmares?) about this misfortune last night, trying to figure out what to do even in my sleep. Luck would have it though, if you do end up in this same situation just know that Engine Australia stocks single piston ring kits for $23 for the set of 3. If you're like me and you've already purchased the NPR ring kit, there's really no need to swallow the $250+ (actual quote I got last night) OEM price from Toyota that only comes as a full set even if it's available in North America. I even tried to see if the 1PZ ring kit was less, but it was over $300!
So in the end, it'll turn out okay, but I'm out another $50 and can't do much building until mid week when the rings show up from overseas. It could've been worse, but I was lucky so I'll chalk this up to a steep learning curve and move on. It's apparent now that no matter how patient or careful you are, cutting your teeth on something like this is tricky. Not that I'm going to let that stop me.
Yup chalk it up to a learning experience. Been there a few times myself and I look back at it still scratching my head.
Now I try to be extra careful and if it doesn't work right away I take a break cuz I know something is going to go bad.
Now I try to be extra careful and if it doesn't work right away I take a break cuz I know something is going to go bad.
So in the end, it'll turn out okay, but I'm out another $50 and can't do much building until mid week when the rings show up from overseas. It could've been worse, but I was lucky so I'll chalk this up to a steep learning curve and move on. It's apparent now that no matter how patient or careful you are, cutting your teeth on something like this is tricky. Not that I'm going to let that stop me.
You can do a LOT! drill the block for turbo, get the crank in, start assembling the gears on the front, start putting stuff on the block….
- Thread starter
- #152
Ha! Alright true enough though I haven't been sitting on my laurels either. It just feels a little out of order than to go further than I have and I'm terrified of getting dust somewhere I'm not supposed to so I want to get this thing closed up!
I figured that the best thing to start with was drilling and tapping the block, which meant driving around town for half a day to find the right sized tap. I could've done this sooner, but I guess I've been putting it off because it's kind of terrifying to intentionally put a drill to your block.
It's probably not advisable to go freehand like this, but I did actually rig up some rafter squares into a jig to keep things in alignment and had my girlfriend provide another pair of eyes.
And it fits! Anybody know if there are cheaper alternatives to Loctite 545 hydraulic sealant? Is it really necessary to use that one?
The holes for the stay need to be tapped still, but as these don't go through the block, these can wait til the stay is in place so I can get a precise location for the holes anyway.
I'd intended to set the crankshaft this weekend too, but it never dawned on me that the FIPG I had in the drawer that wasn't Toyota OEM might not be sufficient until I was reading through the manual and they specifically call out for their sealant. Fortunately the dealerships have plenty of this stuff so a quick trip over takes care of it-- but can someone honestly tell me why this is better than something by Permatex?
- Thread starter
- #153
I'll be trying to get through at least one small project per evening, so tonight's chore was to get the crankshaft set and torqued into place. I'd already cleaned everything over the weekend so it was just a little prep making sure everything was in order, mentally walking through the steps so I don't have something out of reach when I need it most. I'm sure once you've done one build it's a little less intense, but right now I'd say when FIPG is involved, it feels a lot like doing glue ups on furniture!
I picked up this trick from Kevin R.'s build thread, though it's so logical I'm sure many people do it this way.
After helping me get everything in place, I made my girlfriend hang out and make sure I didn't miss a number while I was counting out loud going through round after round of evenly torquing. So she made herself useful with some action shots.
And the finished product for today. Everything spins smoothly still so I guess that's success. I'll get it on the stand tomorrow and maybe start attaching some of the external gears like Jan suggested, but it should only be another day or so before the rings come in anyway.
I picked up this trick from Kevin R.'s build thread, though it's so logical I'm sure many people do it this way.
After helping me get everything in place, I made my girlfriend hang out and make sure I didn't miss a number while I was counting out loud going through round after round of evenly torquing. So she made herself useful with some action shots.
And the finished product for today. Everything spins smoothly still so I guess that's success. I'll get it on the stand tomorrow and maybe start attaching some of the external gears like Jan suggested, but it should only be another day or so before the rings come in anyway.
Very nice!
No idea if the toyota glue is better than permatex. It was not worth wasting time on that for me...
Cheers
Jan
No idea if the toyota glue is better than permatex. It was not worth wasting time on that for me...
Cheers
Jan
Has the crank been ground undersize and if so by what amount..... also if so, did the machine shop mention anything about the crank being nitrided from factory.... by the wide "join line" on the crank shown in one of your crankshaft pics, they appear to be a forged unit....
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- Thread starter
- #156
The crank had some surface checks so it was ground to .25 o/s. The shop didn't say anything about nitriding but I have to assume it's okay to machine since the FSM tells you to. Not sure what join line you're referring to.
The second pic in post #79... you can see a wide ridge running along the non machined part of the crank.... usually looks like someone took a grinder to it. That WIDE line indicates a forged crank ( it does in sb chevs anyway)... my understanding is it's where excess material from the forging process is ground off during manufacture......
On the nitriding... just because factory has under size bearings available ((0.25mm (about .010 inch) in your case) doesn't mean the crank isn't nitrided. It could just mean your crank hasn't got a hardened surface finish any more...
"Respect" is all I can say.
Your title had me skipping over this thread all these weeks, thinking it was a bad vacuum tube or that you had fiddeled with something like timing or fuel and cocked it up. When it went on for more than a page, I had to have a peep and I am very impressed. Good luck, it looks as if you have it all in hand and you are asking the right question to the right people. Don't you just love this forum???
G
Your title had me skipping over this thread all these weeks, thinking it was a bad vacuum tube or that you had fiddeled with something like timing or fuel and cocked it up. When it went on for more than a page, I had to have a peep and I am very impressed. Good luck, it looks as if you have it all in hand and you are asking the right question to the right people. Don't you just love this forum???
G
The second pic in post #79... you can see a wide ridge running along the non machined part of the crank.... usually looks like someone took a grinder to it. That WIDE line indicates a forged crank ( it does in sb chevs anyway)... my understanding is it's where excess material from the forging process is ground off during manufacture......
On the nitriding... just because factory has under size bearings available ((0.25mm (about .010 inch) in your case) doesn't mean the crank isn't nitrided. It could just mean your crank hasn't got a hardened surface finish any more...
FSM page EM91:
"Maximum clearance: 0.10 mm (0.0039 in.)
If the oil clearance is greater than maximum, replace the
bearings. If necessary, grind or replace the crankshaft."
How else would you interpret that other than 'grind or replace crankshaft'?
I'm NOT disputing the FSM..... it says grind or replace..... all I want to know is, "is the crank nitrided from the factory"....