Honestly you are wasting your money going with any different turbo other than the gturbo route.
I think the big thing with the turbo pistons is having the Alfin ring insert. That would be the big thing I am after.
Excessively underpowered 1HZ + poor fuel economy
- Thread starter Leitrum3
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Honestly you are wasting your money going with any different turbo other than the gturbo route.
I think the big thing with the turbo pistons is having the Alfin ring insert. That would be the big thing I am after.
- Thread starter
- #102
Sorry, maybe I stated it poorly. The "turbo kit" I mentioned above is really the engine internals (pistons, bearings, conrods, etc) specifically in preparation for a turbo. They also include their own turbo kit on the brochure they send but I'm already decided on a Grunter. It's a question of the most suitable internal parts vs cost as this stuff really adds up when you rebuild the IP, injectors, new pistons, seals, new turbo, etc.
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Just make sure about the Alfin inserts I think is the big thing.
Go grunter extreme!
Contact Mark aka BigBoy from XXi industries. He is doing custom pumps, air boxes and intercoolers. Might be worth your time getting ahold of him and chatting.
Go grunter extreme!
Contact Mark aka BigBoy from XXi industries. He is doing custom pumps, air boxes and intercoolers. Might be worth your time getting ahold of him and chatting.
FB,
these turbos, i know they put up the power. has anyone put a couple hundred thousand on one yet?
i have two trains of thought, those that want a bit more power but reliability and those that want all out power with reliability distant second.
these turbos seem to fill the second reason very well but i am curious.
these turbos, i know they put up the power. has anyone put a couple hundred thousand on one yet?
i have two trains of thought, those that want a bit more power but reliability and those that want all out power with reliability distant second.
these turbos seem to fill the second reason very well but i am curious.
Ceramic coating is a plus, along with the alfin ring land inserts. IMO you're not going to see much benefit of the bigger rods unless you're intending on making big power out of it
Graeme might be the best person to talk to about that.
I have heard of only one having a failure and graeme replaced it with no hesitation (there are photos and a write up i read on the internet)
Again as you know if its all in the tune, mods and goals.
Its neat to see guys are modding the living hell out of the 1HD-FTEs for example with a better airbox, injectors, turbo, intercooler and a proper tune to be able to put down 300rwhp with 33s and beat stock fuel economy on the highway at 9L/100km.
Kinda nuts what that crank sells for..
Years ago I sold Peter Mac a complete factory short block ( complete bottom end) for a few thousand more, after much investigating Peter found this to be a better solution weighing in all cost and factors..
Great build for a first timer, sounds like you have all your ducks in a row... I do see the merit in upgrading the 1hz vrs buying a long block..
Rob
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I wonder the same thing.
Nothing is free, the extra boost has to shorten engine life. It's just a question of how much it shortens it.
Graeme might be the best person to talk to about that.
I have heard of only one having a failure and graeme replaced it with no hesitation (there are photos and a write up i read on the internet)
Again as you know if its all in the tune, mods and goals.
Its neat to see guys are modding the living hell out of the 1HD-FTEs for example with a better airbox, injectors, turbo, intercooler and a proper tune to be able to put down 300rwhp with 33s and beat stock fuel economy on the highway at 9L/100km.
Where did 9 litres/100km come from? TheBigBoy has posted 10 litres/100km and that's possible in a 100 series on a flat trip.
Reliability of the turbos. I have no concerns. The only turbos that crap themselves early are badly matched. Most other turbos are rebuild/replaced when the engine has issues and the turbo itself is perfectly fine.
- Thread starter
- #111
Aaah! Debate on my build thread!
Just got off the phone with Engine Australia again trying to order my rebuild kit, they were working so hard to convince me of the pitfalls of not upgrading the con rods that I decided to just bag it for today. I don't doubt the merits of a stronger bottom end, but he made it sound ludicrous not too...I know, they're in the business to sell product, but still. Sigh. Guess I'm waiting another week to save up some more.
Just got off the phone with Engine Australia again trying to order my rebuild kit, they were working so hard to convince me of the pitfalls of not upgrading the con rods that I decided to just bag it for today. I don't doubt the merits of a stronger bottom end, but he made it sound ludicrous not too...I know, they're in the business to sell product, but still. Sigh. Guess I'm waiting another week to save up some more.
- Thread starter
- #112
Minor update, I finally got all my ducks in a row and got a few things ordered last week. To my amazement, the rebuild kit arrived on Friday! To think that it shipped out on Wednesday from Australia and arrived that quickly...The world has become so small.
It was a bit like Christmas opening things up, until I realized that a few mandatory items I had talked to Engine Australia about didn't make it into the final order. So among a handful of other miscellaneous items, I'll be ordering freeze plugs, piston bushings and gudgeon pins this week. Really surprised the pins and bushings didn't come with the kit considering the new con rods... Hopefully that doesn't hold up the machine shop much as I'm sure they're ready to be done storing my block.
As for the turbo argument, as you can see from the photo, I gave in and opted for the upgraded con rods. With so much going into this build anyway, the cost seems worth the reassurance. I opted for the basic level Grunter turbo kit (designed for around 15 psi) from Graeme since I'm not planning on intercooling any time soon. I think it should mate nicely to the internal upgrades I have in the works. Hopefully I have more to share soon as things get moving again.
It was a bit like Christmas opening things up, until I realized that a few mandatory items I had talked to Engine Australia about didn't make it into the final order. So among a handful of other miscellaneous items, I'll be ordering freeze plugs, piston bushings and gudgeon pins this week. Really surprised the pins and bushings didn't come with the kit considering the new con rods... Hopefully that doesn't hold up the machine shop much as I'm sure they're ready to be done storing my block.
As for the turbo argument, as you can see from the photo, I gave in and opted for the upgraded con rods. With so much going into this build anyway, the cost seems worth the reassurance. I opted for the basic level Grunter turbo kit (designed for around 15 psi) from Graeme since I'm not planning on intercooling any time soon. I think it should mate nicely to the internal upgrades I have in the works. Hopefully I have more to share soon as things get moving again.
That's a nice box of parts right there, must be very exciting!
- Thread starter
- #114
It IS exciting, but I'm also very much feeling the absence of a mentor since we left Alaska for Portland. And while this forum is invaluable and I wouldn't be half as far as I am now without it, nothing replaces having someone here check my work every once in a while. On that note, since I'm mostly just waiting for more parts and machining right now, I've become increasingly curious as to how everyone got their start/knowledge in engine repair, mod, etc.
reading, watching, hands on, screwing up and then doing it right.
rebuilding an engine is a very easy task.
need:
factory service manual
a GOOD set of tools
a PROPER torque wrench
the ability to read and follow the book exactly
a clean warm place to work
you will be fine, cut no corners, assume nothing and you will be purring in no time.
rebuilding an engine is a very easy task.
need:
factory service manual
a GOOD set of tools
a PROPER torque wrench
the ability to read and follow the book exactly
a clean warm place to work
you will be fine, cut no corners, assume nothing and you will be purring in no time.
I've learnt that when you get stuck and frustrated,its time to put the tools down and have a break.
When you get back to it the next day it is amazing how you see things you couldn't see before
your comment made me think of this:
Johnny Cash
"If you're gonna play the game, boy, you better learn to play it right."
"You got to know when to hold 'em; know when to fold 'em.
"Know when to walk away; know when to run.
kinda fits working in the shop ...
Johnny Cash
"If you're gonna play the game, boy, you better learn to play it right."
"You got to know when to hold 'em; know when to fold 'em.
"Know when to walk away; know when to run.
kinda fits working in the shop ...
Yes, take your time, never rush. If you cannot remember what you did the next day, you probably did it wrongly or forgot it.
Waking up at night not being sure if you torqued the piston oil squirters correctly after you put on the crank cradle is a bad feeling...
one trick i have started using is a paint marker ... as soon as you torque a set of bolts then mark them.
that way if you do have to take a "time out", when you come back you don't have to try and remember what got done and finished.
it doesn't have to be a large dot, it is just so YOU know.
cheap insurance.
i use it on all important torque bolts on my custom truck builds.
that way if you do have to take a "time out", when you come back you don't have to try and remember what got done and finished.
it doesn't have to be a large dot, it is just so YOU know.
cheap insurance.
i use it on all important torque bolts on my custom truck builds.
- Thread starter
- #120
A lot of good thoughts and advice here, I'm glad to be a part of this community. I'll probably have to re-read all of this again later as I move forward and take my time. Slow and steady, check. Paint pen, check. Meticulous attention to detail, check. Waking up in the middle of the night remembering something done wrong, let's hope I can avoid that one.
For now, I get another few weeks of break after finally getting some parts in and handing them over to the machine shop. Fortunately I can stay busy meticulously cleaning and prepping everything that didn't go to the shop, which is a lot!
I also have to get over the shop's estimate I got this morning, it was a bit like getting punched in the stomach. Despite my desire to do as much of the assembly as possible, with so many things needing to be machined they have to take a lot of measurements as they go and so a lot of tasks I was hoping to take off their plate have to stay. But still. Nearly $3k...ugh. I was really expecting $2k at the high end.
For now, I get another few weeks of break after finally getting some parts in and handing them over to the machine shop. Fortunately I can stay busy meticulously cleaning and prepping everything that didn't go to the shop, which is a lot!
I also have to get over the shop's estimate I got this morning, it was a bit like getting punched in the stomach. Despite my desire to do as much of the assembly as possible, with so many things needing to be machined they have to take a lot of measurements as they go and so a lot of tasks I was hoping to take off their plate have to stay. But still. Nearly $3k...ugh. I was really expecting $2k at the high end.