Excessively underpowered 1HZ + poor fuel economy

[crushers]

when you remove the head there is usually a whee bit of coolant still in the passages. this can move as you lift the head and get into the oil passages
not a big deal, i would not worry.
plus, with a full rebuild, life is going to be good.
the #5 was on its way out. you picked a good time to rebuild.

hint, once you have it back together, resist the urge to go to extended oil changes as recommended by some on the forum. your oil is your life blood of the engine ...
and, you can keep an eye on the internals better with 5000 km oil changes. a good idea is every few oil changes send a sample off for testing.
it is better to have cheap oil with a good filter than contaminated expensive oil in the engine for a longer time.

remember, it is YOUR money that is rebuilding the engine, not theirs.

a good machine shop will pop the frost plugs before tank cleansing and install new after, same with the small oil journal plugs. just, before you start reassembling, make sure ALL the plugs are back in, the last engine i had rebuilt the shop missed the 2 small threaded oil plugs in the back.

it is daunting but once you are done, if you have taken your time and followed the book to the letter, then you will have a great feeling of accomplishment when it is purring away in the truck again.

This was something that was curious to me, can you see the "bubbles"? I think it's coolant, but I found a few drops of semi-clear/white liquid coming off the bottom of the block once I'd separated it and pulled the crank. I have no idea on this one.

The worst offender on the lower crank bearings was #5, probably not terrible by catastrophic standards but pretty significantly scored. Those are all fingernail thickness.

 

[Leitrum3]

that looks like the result of a glow plug end that has broken off and pounded up to dust.
usually if that happens the inner MIGHT show some dents but near the edge i could see it happening.
how was the cylinder wall?

Here's the photo I took from earlier that matches up with the broken section of piston. Nothing I can feel, but definitely something. We'll see if it's out of round a bit…

View attachment 824813

when you remove the head there is usually a whee bit of coolant still in the passages. this can move as you lift the head and get into the oil passages
not a big deal, i would not worry.
plus, with a full rebuild, life is going to be good.
the #5 was on its way out. you picked a good time to rebuild.

hint, once you have it back together, resist the urge to go to extended oil changes as recommended by some on the forum. your oil is your life blood of the engine ...
and, you can keep an eye on the internals better with 5000 km oil changes. a good idea is every few oil changes send a sample off for testing.
it is better to have cheap oil with a good filter than contaminated expensive oil in the engine for a longer time.

remember, it is YOUR money that is rebuilding the engine, not theirs.

a good machine shop will pop the frost plugs before tank cleansing and install new after, same with the small oil journal plugs. just, before you start reassembling, make sure ALL the plugs are back in, the last engine i had rebuilt the shop missed the 2 small threaded oil plugs in the back.

it is daunting but once you are done, if you have taken your time and followed the book to the letter, then you will have a great feeling of accomplishment when it is purring away in the truck again.

I don't know that I've heard anything that would sway me from my similar view that more oil changes is better than fewer, regardless of the quality of oil. Even in light of environmental conservation, I recycle my oil and purposely have a 1HZ so I can run it on 100% biodiesel without worry, so I'm going to change my oil as often as I want.

I'm bringing everything to the machine shop tomorrow and I'll be going over everything to make sure we're on the same page. I'll bring up what you've mentioned about frost plugs while I'm at it, thanks for the heads up!

And an obligatory photo. I call it "Operation: My girlfriend is out of town and I really need to get this s*** to the machine shop so don't tell her I did this with her car…"

 

[Dougal]

Manual golf?

 

[Leitrum3]

Manual golf?

Yeah, she wanted a small car so I convinced her to get the TDI golf - she opted for the manual herself. It makes a good compliment to my 80 with the 45+ mpg it gets on the highway and ability to dart through the city!


Entirely unrelated to that, I dropped everything off today with the folks who did all the work for Lynchmob with the various 1H*'s he rebuilt a while back. Missed a few parts that they'd like to have available so I'll be swinging back by later this week (cam caps, crank cradle bolts), otherwise it's crossing my fingers and waiting for their call next week. Really hoping a little light machining is all I'm in store for, but you never know...

 

[SurfPonto]

Yeah, she wanted a small car so I convinced her to get the TDI golf - she opted for the manual herself. It makes a good compliment to my 80 with the 45+ mpg it gets on the highway and ability to dart through the city!.....

Little bit off topic but we also have a 1HZ powered Landcruiser and a manual 2013 Golf TDI.
Pretty much 16-17 mpg (U.S.) for the LandCruiser and 45+ mpg for the Golf.

 

[SurfPonto]

I remember reading in Surfponto's rebuild thread about his cracked crank and how impossible that seems. I get it now. This thing is significant!

View attachment 828677


.......

Yeah that was a sad day when I found out it had cracks.

Amazing part was that you could still source the crank, although I think at the time it was one of two available in the entire U.S.

 

[Dougal]

Yeah, she wanted a small car so I convinced her to get the TDI golf - she opted for the manual herself. It makes a good compliment to my 80 with the 45+ mpg it gets on the highway and ability to dart through the city!

Your girlfriend has good taste in cars.

Little bit off topic but we also have a 1HZ powered Landcruiser and a manual 2013 Golf TDI.
Pretty much 16-17 mpg (U.S.) for the LandCruiser and 45+ mpg for the Golf.

I have an Octavia Scout. Based on the same Golf but restyled, 4wd, bigger boot, bigger wheels, 40mm higher and steel underbody protection. I get about 43 UKMPG out of it overall. All the cool features rob some fuel economy.

 

[crushers]

just a heads up ....
we will have a couple cranks here first of next year for those with dead HDT or 1HZ engines.

 

[Leitrum3]

Well, I stopped by the machine shop yesterday and they're finally getting to mine. Had the block cleaned and magnafluxed for me to peak at and said they'd have everything else cleaned, fluxed and possibly machined today or tomorrow. Might even be able to order parts before the end of the week! Once they get everything machined, I think I might need to review the list of things they want to do as compared with what I'd like to take on. I think they're assuming they'll do all the plastiguage checking of bearings, piston clearance mockup, etc. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe that the only things I'll need them to handle before handing it back over to me is: installing the new valves (and stems as needed) and precups in the head, and making any adjustments to the pistons after I check clearances. This assumes I get around to picking up a couple of high precision measuring tools, but that will still probably save me 1000+ by the way they were talking...Recommended brands of magnetic dial indicators with enough precision for me?

I've given my parts order a good deal of thought, and I'm still convinced that it's probably worth it in the long run to go with Engines Australia and their upgraded, ceramic coated pistons. For folks that have ordered from them, do I need to source ACL bearings elsewhere? What about seals and gaskets? I thought the consensus was to go with Toyota seals and gaskets. Any thoughts/experiences are appreciated!

That's all for now, I'll update more when I get some hopefully good news in the next few days! And of course, some mandatory photos below.

 

[crushers]

no, usually the shop mic the crank and cam, line bore (if needed) the crank journal but it is the sole responsibility of the assembler to plastic gauge as he installs to confirm clearances.

 

[Leitrum3]

no, usually the shop mic the crank and cam, line bore (if needed) the crank journal but it is the sole responsibility of the assembler to plastic gauge as he installs to confirm clearances.

Yeah, I guess I should've mentioned those items since I talked with them about doing those things. Sounds like I just need to be very clear what I need them to do after they get things machined.

 

[Leitrum3]

Found this article today and even though the author is building a gasser, it was fairly informative about how to work the process with a machine shop. Thought I'd post it for other people like me who just kind of jump right in and figure it out as they go ...

http://www.delmarvasdc.org/BUDGET ENGINE REBUILD.pdf

 

[Leitrum3]

just a heads up ....
we will have a couple cranks here first of next year for those with dead HDT or 1HZ engines.

Stopped by the machine shop the other day and got some news. I may be following in Surfponto's footsteps, I'm hoping it's too soon to tell. According to the shop, when they magna fluxed the crank, there were superficial imperfections all over the bearing surfaces. To them, they looked like they could be from the factory from the heat treating, or they could be from the crank just getting hammered. It's possible that when they machine it, everything will go away, but there's always the possibility it will get worse. I managed to snag a photo of one of the surfaces, but it's not one of the worst spots. Anyone familiar? You can make out what I'm talking about on the left surface in the photo. Other areas almost touched and seemed to form a rough line across, though still in the pattern shown in this photo.




Other than the crank, everything else measured out and looked great! So, At least there's that. My worst fear was that the head would be cracked, but it's apparently in great shape, with the exception of the pre cups. If I can get through to Engines Australia, I should be ordering parts this week, with the exception of the seals and gaskets after I double check that I can still get them from Toyota locally.








I grew up on a construction site, not in a shop so I'm always fascinated by the range of blocks and tools in machine shops. Managed to snap a few quick photos on my last trip.

 

[Jan-78FJ40]

These look very different than the cracks on surfponto's crank. On that one we could clearly see cracks, even without help of the UV light. They were MUCH worse, and there was no dispute whether they were from the machining or actual cracks.
I'd suggest your crank is fine and to run it.
cheers,
jan

 

[crushers]

agree, once the crank is cleaned up (polished) you will be golden.

 

[roscoFJ73]

Not sure about cracks , but the 1HZ/1HD T cranks seem to be fairly reliable.I cant ever remember one failing.
They run these in the 300hp+ marine versions of the same engine

 

[Dougal]

Not sure about cracks , but the 1HZ/1HD T cranks seem to be fairly reliable.I cant ever remember one failing.
They run these in the 300hp+ marine versions of the same engine

Isn't there a cast vs forged difference between 1HZ and HD?

 

[roscoFJ73]

Same part numbers AFAIK

 

[crushers]

13411 CRANKSHAFT
13411-17010 1 $2,066.02

same number for both engines.
it would not make sense to make 2 different cranks for a mass produced identical engine blocks.
the difference in factory rated HP is 135 vrs 175 ... not enough for investment of a different crank.

 

[Leitrum3]

These look very different than the cracks on surfponto's crank. On that one we could clearly see cracks, even without help of the UV light. They were MUCH worse, and there was no dispute whether they were from the machining or actual cracks.
I'd suggest your crank is fine and to run it.
cheers,
jan

agree, once the crank is cleaned up (polished) you will be golden.

Thanks guys, I feel better going forward with some feedback. There weren't any clearly visible cracks like you describe and if there was anything more significant, the way the guy was describing what he found didn't sound much worse than what you can see in my photo.

Not sure about cracks , but the 1HZ/1HD T cranks seem to be fairly reliable.I cant ever remember one failing.
They run these in the 300hp+ marine versions of the same engine

I wouldn't have thought it very common either til I read Surfponto's build.


In other news, trying to get the sizes from the machine shop is less straightforward and I'll need to have them grab the manual I think so we can walk through the various sizes and how they relate to each other according to the charts. They wanted to just order #1 oversize across the board, but that didn't make sense to me.

I also spent some time on the phone with Engine Australia before Christmas (and vacation) and had them send me some documentation on their kits. I had intended to get the turbo kit, but after reading through what they send, I'm not entirely sure what the benefits are of the full kit. In Summary: The $1000 kit doesn't require new con rods, gudgeon pins, etc. but still has the ceramic coated pistons. The $2000 kit replaces all of those things and comes with a thicker head gasket to accommodate the different piston protrusion. Do people generally feel like these "benefits" warrant another $1000? I had expected the $1000 kit to have standard pistons, not the ceramic coated so I'm less clear on what route to take now.

I uploaded the documents they sent me regarding these kits at the following links.

http://issuu.com/leit.downing/docs/document

http://issuu.com/leit.downing/docs/toyota_1hzt_engine_kit_flyer_colour