Excessive Engine Movement

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Irish Reiver

Irish Reiver

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10 Year
Joined
Oct 24, 2015
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Location
Orlando, Florida
Some help with this one please.
I noticed this last night when i topping off the ATF. Daughter was at the helm going through the selector positions. Engine seemed to move significantly.


This morning I checked on my other 80 and going from N to R or D is barely discernible.

Both front engine mounts are new OEM. Tranny mount is also new and OEM. I have checked that all the bolts are torqued to spec.
Any ideas?
 
Put the transfer in neutral and try that again. My inital though is there's a problem with the manual shift lever bushing, inside the case. Does this only happen when shifting into reverse?
 
Looks normal to me. If you had a bad engine mount, there would be a lot more movement. You'd also see significant movement with the transfer case lever in the cabin. For me, the transfer case lever moving side-to-side is my first indication of a bad mount. The movement is exaggerated even more in low range when on and off throttle.
 
Totally normal dude, don't sweat it. I had no idea how much this engine moved until I drove to the exhaust shop after the turbo install with the hood removed. :hillbilly: Under load, this engine moves an insane amount on new motor mounts!! At that time, the tranny mount was still the original one so it was a little long in the tooth.

Edit: I studied this pic a bit and saw that I'm now heading back home after the exhaust shop. This means, the exhaust was much quieter, and I was hauling the mail on the LEFT lane with a huge s***ty grin on my face. So, I was going from 5200' to 7000' doing prolly 80 or some such crap.
;)

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Looks normal to me too. The new rubber flex’s well. With no accompanying bangs or clangs or other noted issues I’d think it good to go.
 
I don't think my 6.0L V8 moves as much. I mean, I guess it should given that I used new Toyota motor and transmission bushings.

I am going to have to check now..
 
Malleus said:
Put the transfer in neutral and try that again. My inital though is there's a problem with the manual shift lever bushing, inside the case. Does this only happen when shifting into reverse?
Click to expand...
It is the same going from N to D. Will try with the transfer in neutral tomorrow when i get back from miami.
 
baldilocks said:
Looks normal to me too. The new rubber flex’s well. With no accompanying bangs or clangs or other noted issues I’d think it good to go.
Click to expand...
If I didn't have the '96 to compare it to I would probably have just let slide knowing all the mounts are new but as the old saying goes, a man with a watch can tell the time, a man with 2 watches is never sure.:meh:
 
If it's the same for drive and reverse, from neutral, it may the the torque converter clutch. It should be free at idle.

Take it out where you can get up to 60mpg, and at 52-54mph, while holding the speed steady, very slightly increase the pedal pressure. The rpm should not change.
 
Malleus said:
Put the transfer in neutral and try that again. My inital though is there's a problem with the manual shift lever bushing, inside the case. Does this only happen when shifting into reverse?
Click to expand...
I got a chance to jump back into this issue today. With the transfer in N she shifts from R to N to D and back as smooth as butter. I also went for a ~10 mile drive to see how it drives. Shifting up through the gears comes with a jolt albeit not as bad as the typical shifts in low range. Downshifts are smooth. I also noticed that on my drive, which has a slight upward slope, that it will move forward up the slope in idle. This was with a warm engine @650RPM. I know this isn't very scientific but might be worth mentioning.
@Malleus are you able to provide guidance on what I need to check in relation to your shift leaver bushing hypothesis?
 
Unfortunately, the only way to know is to remove the pan. However, with the transmisson isolated, that is, with the transfer in neutral, and no problem, I'd tend to think the problem is downstream of the transmission.
 
landtank said:
Have you checked for frame cracks?
Panhard cracks at the axle?
Loose front arm hardware?
Click to expand...
I checked the frame for cracks when the steering box was out. Everything was good. Truck has never been off road which must help.

I have been going through the FSM diagnostics for the transmission (DI-147 onwards) to see if there is any overlap with some of the work I have done on the truck. The main areas of focus at this stage are the NSS which I removed to clean up and the throttle cable which has a weird routing due to the relocation of the throttle body because of the supercharger. The throttle cable is adjusted as per the FSM with 1mm of the inner sheath protruding but maybe I need to tighten the cable a little more - not sure. One thing that is recurring on the diagnostics chart is the Accumulator control valve but I have no idea what that is or what is required to test it.
Not sure if I mentioned this previously but moving the transfer from H-N-L requires superhuman strength. It was definitely not like this before but I don't see how that would cause my harsh gear changes.
 
Irish Reiver said:
Not sure if I mentioned this previously but moving the transfer from H-N-L requires superhuman strength. It was definitely not like this before but I don't see how that would cause my harsh gear changes.
Click to expand...

I would disconnect its linkage and check if the lever still requires superhuman strength. The lever is known to seize up over time. Disassembling it and regreasing it fixes it. Otherwise, there is something binding your linkage. I also don't think it pertains to your issue.

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Irish Reiver said:
I got a chance to jump back into this issue today. With the transfer in N she shifts from R to N to D and back as smooth as butter. I also went for a ~10 mile drive to see how it drives. Shifting up through the gears comes with a jolt albeit not as bad as the typical shifts in low range. Downshifts are smooth. I also noticed that on my drive, which has a slight upward slope, that it will move forward up the slope in idle. This was with a warm engine @650RPM. I know this isn't very scientific but might be worth mentioning.
@Malleus are you able to provide guidance on what I need to check in relation to your shift leaver bushing hypothesis?
Click to expand...
If you've disengaged the transmission from the lower drivetrain by putting the transfer case in neutral, and the problem went away, your problem is in the lower end of the drivetrain.

It sounds like something is binding which is supposed to be idling. It can't be something inside the case.
 
IMHO, you're ignoring your own troubleshooting. However, if you're sure you want to dissect the transmission, you need the unit repair manual (RM479U). It's in the Resources Forum.

The accumulator control valve is in the lower valve body:
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Malleus said:
If you've disengaged the transmission from the lower drivetrain by putting the transfer case in neutral, and the problem went away, your problem is in the lower end of the drivetrain.

It sounds like something is binding which is supposed to be idling. It can't be something inside the case.
Click to expand...
I understand and agree with your logic but I guess I am just not joining the dots on what that piece of info is telling me. I currently have all 4 wheels on axle stands. With the transfer in H and transmission in P I am able to turn all 4 wheels by hand. If I start it and put it in drive, all 4 wheels turn as expected. The rear passenger wheel has a little drag in it but still turns.
What would you suggest my next step should be?
 
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