Builds Evolution of a Land Cruiser: My 80's build thread (7 Viewers)

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You can add a small spacer also and it will clear. You can pick them up online or stereo places for $5

Good to know! I was just planning on using some nylon spacers from Lowes.

You dont like being far away from a bottle opener!!!! one on the back and one on the front! Love it Best mod ive seen love it!!!:lol::lol::lol:

Haha when you're out camping, having to walk around to the other side of the rig is too damn far :)
 
NEW BATTERY

Working on my dual battery setup so I needed a new battery. I have most of the setup finished, just need to order the new battery cables to connect it all together. Will post an update when that's done.

In the meantime, here's pics of the new main battery. Picked up an Interstate Mega-Tron group 65. It's a beast! Specs are impressive too, 850 CCA, 1000 CA and a reserve capacity of 150 minutes. I didn't go with a AGM deep cycle battery because of the countless issues folks have had in the 80s; seems like our trucks just kill these batteries way too fast. Good thing I researched because I was close to pulling the trigger on a Sears DHP.

Got this one for $140 out the door at a local Firestone, has a great warranty too. The group 65 battery is quite a bit shorter than the stock size batteries so I had to cut the opening for the positive cables lower and pull the fusible links through. The positive cable has plenty of slack, just cut the zip ties that sit below the power steering reservoir.

My negative cable was a different story though. One of the previous owners had cut the negative cable and installed some POS battery clamp and the cable was trashed. So, it was too short and wouldn't reach the terminals. Went to a local auto parts store and picked up a 55" 4AWG cable. Getting it mounted to the block was a royal pain in the ass, not a lot of room to work here.

I was able to use the factory tie-down after trimming a bit of the metal away from the radiator bracket. After that it bolted down just fine and feels very secure. Fastened all the cables together using military battery clamps. These things are awesome. I will never use another battery clamp ever again!

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Haha when you're out camping, having to walk around to the other side of the rig is too damn far :)

better install one on either side too then!!:D:D:D
 
NEW BRAKE LINES

Installed new axle-to-caliper brake lines front and rear. Purchased the OEM set from Akella. Much needed too, the OEM rubber lines were getting pretty bad after almost 18yrs.

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These were toast!

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DUAL BATTERY SETUP

This project has been a long time coming! While I don't run a 12v fridge at this time, I wanted to have the peace of mind when going on camping trips as I go out alone a lot. Last thing I want is for my wife and I to be stranded in the forest due to a dead battery with no cell phone reception anywhere.

I went with the HellRoaring BIC-95300B. I won't go into the details of the system as there several write-ups about it throughout this forum, but this is intended to be used as a backup battery setup where all loads are connected to the main battery and the secondary battery is used only for heavy loads (winching) or self jump-starts if you kill your main battery.

All cables came from www.genuinedealz.com. Rather than making the cables myself, I pre-measured everything and had these guys build the cables (2awg & 4awg as recommended by HellRoaring). Good prices and nice quality marine-grade cable. Highly recommended!

As noted in my earlier post, I upgraded to an Interstate Mega-Tron Plus 65 battery for the main.

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I mounted the HellRoaring unit on the cruise control module...

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Relocated my washer bottle using Slee's kit:

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Picked up a used passenger side battery tray and moved my old 24F battery to serve as the auxiliary battery with military terminals:

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I decided to fuse the ground using a 150 amp Bussmann fuse I picked up from HellRoaring (fuse not installed in this pic):

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The auxiliary battery is grounded to the fender and the engine block much like the main battery. I used an existing hole in the block which made it easy:

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The positive cable from the HellRoaring unit is routed along the top of the firewall and curves around the brake booster:

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And is connected to the starter right under the lug terminal of the main battery:

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And lastly, the HellRoaring remote module in the cab. I chose to mount it under the ash tray and didn't incorporate into the switch blanks just in case I need to change something in the future. And that's it! :clap:

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Very clean install. I need to check that out in person. I have most of the stuff to do the mod, just need to do some more homework.
 
Clean work jose!! I hope to meet you and see your rig in person! I need to do this too. I just ordered my battery box and parts.
Eric, let's get together and do this with Rich, he's a pro...
 
Yeah sounds good to me!!! Lets get something going soon.
 
hey so quick question what did you do to mount your front sway bar bushing?? the bracket I was supplied is wider than factory, ive also just discovered the PO didnt get the drop for the sway bar link, so going to have to worry about ordering that now too hahaha
 
hey so quick question what did you do to mount your front sway bar bushing?? the bracket I was supplied is wider than factory, ive also just discovered the PO didnt get the drop for the sway bar link, so going to have to worry about ordering that now too hahaha

Yeah it is a bit wider. But the drop bracket that was installed with my lift has a bit of play in the mounting holes, so it worked out just fine.
 
Great pictures Jose, as always. Looking good.
 
Very clean install. I need to check that out in person. I have most of the stuff to do the mod, just need to do some more homework.

Clean work jose!! I hope to meet you and see your rig in person! I need to do this too. I just ordered my battery box and parts.
Eric, let's get together and do this with Rich, he's a pro...

Your on a roll with this truck. Good work Jose...

Great pictures Jose, as always. Looking good.

Thanks folks!! :cheers:
 
STEERING UPGRADE

Well this long project is finally done! This is all started when I noticed all my stock TREs were shot and leaking grease. I looked around at OEM TREs and didn't like the price. After a bit of research, I decided I would just redo the whole steering system with much beefier parts and future-proof the build since the stock tie rod presents many problems due to its location.

I know folks here cringe at the though of cutting stock parts out and running non-OEM stuff, but my reasons for doing this are:

- It puts the tie rod where it should have been from the factory. Having the tie rod in the back is a very funky setup.

- Easier to adjust toe with the weld-in bungs

- Gets rid of the clearance issues when trying to correct caster on lifted trucks, mine is rubbing already.

- Putting the tie rod on the front raises it a bit, so gets it away from rocks

- GM 1-ton TREs are greasable with a zerk fitting, cheaper and stronger than Toyota and available everywhere since they're widely used.

- I'm not sure what the future holds. Engine swap? Taller lift? Custom 3-link? I don't want to limit myself now. When you go more extreme the tie rod will always be an issue. So I might as well upgrade now.

- Setting myself up with the steering this way gives me more options down the road, crossover steering, full high-steer, hydro-assist, etc.​

Let's start off with a parts list:

Y-link kit from Ruff Stuff complete with GM 1-ton TREs ($245)
http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/YLINK.html

RHD double steering arm that goes on the driver's side ($139)
http://shop.cruiserparts.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=6_73_239&products_id=22472

OD Tube Clamp for the steering stabilizer ($35)
http://www.trail-gear.com/od-tube-clamps

Re-tapering the pitman arm to the correct .795" taper of the draglink TRE, done by 4x4Labs ($20)
http://www.4x4labs.com/products/steering/pitman-arms/

7/8" inserts that go on the steering arms that give the correct taper for the 1-ton TREs ($16)
http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/INSSTEER.html

Collecting the shiny new parts

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Beefy 1-ton TREs vs the wimpy stock parts

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1.5" x .25" wall DOM tubing vs stock tube, huge difference!

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And here it is installed! No clearance issues, even with the panhard in the stock location

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For the stabilizer, we simply welded a bolt onto the OD tube clamp

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And here's the only hiccup I had with the whole project. Because the mount for the stabilizer moved over a few inches, the shock is too long and won't allow you to turn the wheel all the way to the passenger side. So I just moved the mount over and I'm only using one bolt for now. I'll either need to get a shorter shock or redo this mount somehow in the new position. We'll see if it can hold using just one bolt...

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Painted the new steering setup because I have OCD and painted the OME stabilizer because IH8YELLOW

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Nice!

Thanks for the info! I am going to do this on my isuzu swap to clear the oil pan. This might be a dumb question(it is if I felt like I had to say it), does it feel the same as stock as far as driving and what not? Just checkin that it doesn't affect steering geometry and how the truck handles negatively.

John
 
This is an awesomely well done cruiser, I love it, Props :)
 
Thanks for the info! I am going to do this on my isuzu swap to clear the oil pan. This might be a dumb question(it is if I felt like I had to say it), does it feel the same as stock as far as driving and what not? Just checkin that it doesn't affect steering geometry and how the truck handles negatively.

John

Yeah it feels exactly the same since you're not really doing anything custom and are using OEM steering arms, just moving the tie rod up to the front. I measured the arms yesterday and the front mounting point is almost 1.5" taller than the rear arms.

This is an awesomely well done cruiser, I love it, Props :)

Thank you sir!
 
Do you foresee any issue with the tie rod contacting the frame end Panhard mount? Or does the axle move forward enough on compression to miss it?

Looks great, been thinking about this mod myself quite a bit.
 

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