Builds Eureka - a 1974 Factory Soft Top FJ40 preservation (1 Viewer)

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A few hours later and the evaporust seems to be working.

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Also, moved the hose to a different location on the head as I realized I didn't see flow up near the heater inlet.

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Probably wouldn't hurt to couple your aquarium outlet hose to the heater inlet hose and flush the heater core(s) out as well.
I already removed the heater unfortunately, otherwise I would be flushing the whole system. I am going to pull all the heater pipes off and hook up a system to circulate it outside of the truck eventually, but it's not a huge priority right now. Want to get the engine running first and get the transmission and transfer case hooked up.
 
My aquarium pump seems to be working well for the evaporust treatment. It went overnight, this morning I flushed with distilled water for a few hours and then refilled with fresh evaporust for another overnight treatment.

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Also, tossed the new clutch master and slave on there, opted to keep the slave on passenger side. Need to make a new hard line, but that's not a big deal. Will probably tackle that tomorrow morning.
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Also knocked out the clutch hard-line. I love working with NiCopp, and the Eastwood flare tool makes it super easy.

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A little bad news I discovered. Turns out the header is toast.

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Went ahead and pulled the exhaust, carb and intake. Carb is getting dipped as we speak and is cleaning up nicely.

Need to start brainstorming what I want to do for the exhaust now.
 
Got my alternator in today as well, upgrading to an internally regulated CS130 (1990 Dodge Monaco). Originally came with serpentine pulley, but the v-belt pulley from the stock alt swapped right on. Lines up perfectly with a few washers to shim.

And yes. I know I'll have to bypass the stock ammeter on the cluster. Already been. Down this road with the 45. (I have a voltmeter in its place)

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Make sure you carry a spare belt and roof
Got my alternator in today as well, upgrading to an internally regulated CS130 (1990 Dodge Monaco). Originally came with serpentine pulley, but the v-belt pulley from the stock alt swapped right on. Lines up perfectly with a few washers to shim.

And yes. I know I'll have to bypass the stock ammeter on the cluster. Already been. Down this road with the 45. (I have a voltmeter in its place)

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Carry a spare belt… 100+ amp alternators are hard on V belts. My 120 amp wears them out faster than normal.
 
This pump setup looks like a great method for block cleaning. I didn't see if you hooked the pump up to the block drain on drivers side?
I didn't. The pump outlet went to the heater circuit outlet on the head (red hose in pic), and finished the circuit at the water pump outlet back into the pail. So starting at the highest point of the system and ending at the second lowest. It was easier to keep the block drain blocked off rather than block off the water pump outlet.

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The block drain (which I already thoroughly cleared) was what I used to drain the system when I wanted to switch out for fresh water/evaporust. Everything is running pretty clear now though so I'm pretty convinced it fully circulated through everything important.
 
Also rebuilt the brake master today. Opted to rebuild, as all the parts looked good once I was able to unfreeze the master. Also, this particular dual reservoir setup (70-74) seems to be stupidly expensive compared to the others. Rebuild kit was $30ish from CruiserTEQ vs $150ish to replace. Fun little project.

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"Bench" bleeding

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@bikersmurf It's only a 90A alt, but yeah a belt is something I always keep a spare of in the cab.
90 isn’t so bad… when I searched CS130 I found many higher output alternatives. At least with the stock pulleys it’s an extra wide belt.

I’m running 120 A on a narrower belt. I have to it well tensioned and I usually replace it when it starts to look like it’s getting narrower. If in doubt I replace it and throw the one I took off in the toolbox as an emergency spare. I’ve not needed one yet… but it’s there.
 
Before I really get into patching some body panels, this seemed like a good project to get the welder settings dialed in for more body work. Small flat patch area for the turn signal mounts on the fender. Will also be making a small bracket for underneath where the nut seats.

Just did fit-up for the panel today.

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Before I really get into patching some body panels, this seemed like a good project to get the welder settings dialed in for more body work. Small flat patch area for the turn signal mounts on the fender. Will also be making a small bracket for underneath where the nut seats.

Just did fit-up for the panel today.

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I hope you’ve taken measurements for the mounting hole locations. I thought I’d mention it before you pass the point of no return.
 
Also started some work on forming my rear quarter patches. Using this thread for inspo:


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