Engine Lift hooks

[hatcher]

So i tried removing the engine yesterday to no avail. Thought if would be easier to separate the engine from the trans first.. HA. So i came here and scoured the threads to see what I was doing wrong. Apparently, I am not the only one who has had an extreme time of getting them to let go of one another. I probably got an 1/8 inch (being generous) separation and could rotate the trans back and forth as at first i thought it was just hitting the drivers underside of the body. Trans cover off , engine lift side saddle through pass side with strap wrapped around trans. Rocking, rolling, pulling, twisting and finally just gave up. I didnt want to use pry bar and bust an ear or any part of either housing but it did cross my mind, several times. It appears the bearing is seized to the shaft and is not letting go (per thread search).

More thread reading and I see that some just pull them all out together which is my new plan this coming weekend. I also see that some of you have lift hooks attached to the head and others do not. Mine are attached so I was wondering if they are designed to just hold the weight of the engine or can they securely hold the weight of the trans attached too? I only found one thread where one complete set was removed by these hooks which was a success. Just makes me a little nervous.

While accepting defeat and laying under the FJ, it actually crossed my mind to wrap straps around the frame or axle and the trans and use a come a long to try and split the two. I know this was a redneck thought but desperate times sometimes call for desperate thoughts.

I have also read to use a 2 ton lift as a 1 ton may bend or sag. I only have a 1 ton (bought for this job only) and will pick up a leveler, more chains/straps or anything else i may need.

If I get them all out together, any suggestions on splitting the two?

 

[Pin_Head]

Yes on the friction welded bearing race. You need to separate either in or out of the truck, so commence to prying on it with your 6 foot long long pry bar (but not on an ear that might break). If prying doesn’t get it, You may need to smash the bellhousing with a 15 pound sledge as the bell housing is cheap compared to the other options.

 

[hatcher]

Whoa... I was hoping a little PB Blaster would do the trick.
All kidding aside. I may resort to almost anything once they are out. I am in no hurry on this rebuild so time is on my side. Just did not figure on these two wanting to stay so close for so long.

 

[S4Cruiser]

Pull it with trans and tcase attached. Hooks might bend ever so slightly but should be fine. Pulled mine this way, no issues just takes some persuasion / maneuvering. Sepearting them when out of the truck should be easier.

 

[hatcher]

Pull it with trans and tcase attached. Hooks might bend ever so slightly but should be fine. Pulled mine this way, no issues just takes some persuasion / maneuvering. Sepearting them when out of the truck should be easier.

Pull it with trans and tcase attached. Hooks might bend ever so slightly but should be fine. Pulled mine this way, no issues just takes some persuasion / maneuvering. Sepearting them when out of the truck should be easier.

Thanks, I think I will have a few extra straps wrapped around it to ease my tension a little.

 

[lcwizard]

If you pull the whole assembly, removing the rear motor mounts helps. Like jumper cables they
tend to catch on everything. I assume you already removed the shifters.
Yes the hooks will hold the weight of both

 

[hatcher]

If you pull the whole assembly, removing the rear motor mounts helps. Like jumper cables they
tend to catch on everything. I assume you already removed the shifters.
Yes the hooks will hold the weight of both

Thanks. I will remove them and attempt the removal of all at once. Its a column shift 3 speed so it has shifter linkages everywhere. Many photos were taken prior to removal.

 

[lcwizard]

Total weight will be under 1/2 ton so I'd think a 1 ton hoist would be fine. Of course if your hoist is like mine, made in China, who knows what
one ton really means

 

[hatcher]

Total weight will be under 1/2 ton so I'd think a 1 ton hoist would be fine. Of course if your hoist is like mine, made in China, who knows what
one ton really means

Harbor Freight special Pittsburg. Not sure where its made but it was only $99 on Black Friday. Actually seems to be "decent" build. Not that I have ever purchased one before though. Only the test will tell.

 

[shelfboy1]

had one this summer tied the front of the engine to my backhoe chained around the motor mounts and a chain wrapped around the tranny and pulled them apart with my dump truck .compared to wedges and pry bars it came right apart

 

[65swb45]

I would do the prying while it’s in the truck. It’s a lot easier when the engine is anchored.

 

[middlecalf]

What are your plans for the whole rig? Are you going to remove the body? It’s awfully nice to work on engine/drivetrain without the body in place.

 

[emac]

hooks will hold just fine, at least mine did. Just be careful that is one heavy SOB hanging on the hoist. I really dont recall having any major issue separating the tranny, but mine was out of the frame. You are trying to remove the tranny from the bell housing, correct? In order to remove the bell housing from the engine you have a couple of bolts behind the flywheel.

 

[Pin_Head]

I would do the prying while it’s in the truck. It’s a lot easier when the engine is anchored.

Me too.

Wedges might work too and you could use them either way.
I have never had to face this problem, but I know people that have and it takes a lot of force.

 

[hatcher]

hooks will hold just fine, at least mine did. Just be careful that is one heavy SOB hanging on the hoist. I really dont recall having any major issue separating the tranny, but mine was out of the frame. You are trying to remove the tranny from the bell housing, correct? In order to remove the bell housing from the engine you have a couple of bolts behind the flywheel.

View attachment 1851846

Prior to pulling I thought there were just a few bolts holding the bell housing to the engine but then upon closer inspection, i noticed the ones behind the flywheel so plans changed to separating the trans from the bell housing. Something is certainly not wanting to let go and from reading several threads it the bearing apparently seized on the shaft.

I would think it would be easier to split with the engine mounted so it wouldnt swing like it would out of the FJ. It would be a bit easier if the tub was off too. There were 2 of us fighting with it Sunday but will have 1, maybe 2 more sets of hands this weekend.

 

[hatcher]

Me too.

Wedges might work too and you could use them either way.
I have never had to face this problem, but I know people that have and it takes a lot of force.

I think that i will pick up some wedges this week. It just made me real nervous when my buddy started putting a pry bar between then. I could envision one of the housings cracking. I think driving a wedge in the top, bottom and both sides should work. Wrapping straps around the trans and frame and use a come a long keeps crossing my mind too.

 

[hatcher]

What are your plans for the whole rig? Are you going to remove the body? It’s awfully nice to work on engine/drivetrain without the body in place.

The tub is coming off but not planned until after the holidays. My buddy just wanted to pull the engine this past weekend to cross that off the list. Just didnt plan on it being such a pain.

This is a frame off build. Every piece of the FJ is coming off or apart. Everything is getting repaired, rebuilt or replaced. If this Sunday doesnt go well then I will postpone the engine pull until after the tub comes off and it would certainly make it a whole lot easier.

 

[65swb45]

The worst one I ever had to do here took a 6’ wrecking bar. It eventually pulled the center of the clutch disc out.

It did not damage the bellhousing.

Hth

Mark

www.marksoffroad.net