engine hesitation, stutter light loading (1 Viewer)

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stuck egr valve maybe?
 
OK, thanks to all!
Intake hose is good, inspected, put it under vacuum and no leaks, no holes.
Wiring harness checked, no visible insulation burn or wear.
Can check spark plugs but this is intermittent issue. goes for weeks without issue

She goes to the dealer Thursday.
Donations accepted, make checks payable to "Save my AZ 80" :)

Mike
 
Hands sup

All good suggestions I shared with the service manager at local dealer. Only good news so far is that it happened while he was driving, not turning or accelerating, straight steady speed. But he describes it differently. He says it stalls, will idle, although roughly and won't accelerate when it is happening. It took longer for it to recover for him and happened twice. Will a VAF go bad without throwing a code/CEL? So far it's only the cost of the diagnostic.
 
And the answer to the AZ80's stalling was????

Hi AZ80,
Pray tell us what the outcome was?

Regards,
Francis
 
ghost gone, no mo bad joo joo

Dealer had it for 9 days, one of those days they had Toyota engineer there and he gave his 2 cents. they reached a point where they had no other ideas short of guessing and replacing parts. They replicated the symptom 6 times while they had it. Replaced the coil and said they were 90% sure they had it. Then it happened to them again upon moving it out of the bay. We needed the vehicle back so we took it home (it stalled again on the way home). When we got it home I had ordered Slee front and rear bumpers, so I pulled the old off and put the new on (LOOKS GREAT). now this part is weird it hasn't happened since and its over three weeks. Now I'm sure this will Jinx me but not a hesitation or whimper. and it had gotten to the point of doing it almost every time we went out. It's almost as if, the old girl had felt neglected and got that face lift she was looking for and quit pouting.

I honestly don't know what happened with that bumper change........Slee got Magic!

Cross your fingers for me the ol' girl gonna get some new rock sliders, then some nice new tires, then in a few months later some..................
 
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fix found!

Bad transmission control harness, bouncing around it worked sometimes then or was grounding out or something but it finally starting giving us Codes and was tracked down by a local mechanic that has always done well by my other vehicles and I decided to give them a try !! (Dealer never did) Add that to everyones list, this wire was down on top and to the side of the tranny. There's no way I ever would had found it by just looking. Add it to list of things to check if something similar happens to to your 80.
 
AZ80,

Any chance you took a picture of this particular 'transmission control harness'? I'm actively troubleshooting this issue right now, so any assistance you (or anyone else) can provide in identifying its location, I'd very much appreciate it!
 
un fixed

Seems that harness wire replacement was temporary, it start back up after 6 months. It is not giving codes or anything, so no i didn't take any pictures of the "problem" wire. Sorry. Still trying to track it down my self there is at least 5 other people that have threads on this forum and no one has come up with a definitive solution. For now I just pull out into traffic carefully and leave lots of room in case it happens. The randomosity of it drive me crazy. :bang:
 
another possible solution

Well after the problem returned, My wife and I got used to driving it this way, very cautionary. Although I kept reading about every thread I could. Seems this one fellow thought it might have something to do with the idle control valve (motor). I pulled mine off, the seat was really dirty and the rubber is getting old and brittle. but I cleaned them both up re-lubed a few areas on the "shaft" and reinstalled it. and so far no acceleration issues or stutters have returned. I am going to order a new part from Cruiser Dan since the part is 18 years old. The rubber showing its age. I am hoping this is it finally. Everyone cross your fingers.
Thanks for everyones help and feedback, and again if the issue returns I will let everyone know and keep this post going.
 
Well after the problem returned, My wife and I got used to driving it this way, very cautionary. Although I kept reading about every thread I could. Seems this one fellow thought it might have something to do with the idle control valve (motor). I pulled mine off, the seat was really dirty and the rubber is getting old and brittle. but I cleaned them both up re-lubed a few areas on the "shaft" and reinstalled it. and so far no acceleration issues or stutters have returned. I am going to order a new part from Cruiser Dan since the part is 18 years old. The rubber showing its age. I am hoping this is it finally. Everyone cross your fingers.
Thanks for everyones help and feedback, and again if the issue returns I will let everyone know and keep this post going.

I also have a '94 and am dealing with a similar issue. I thought I had it fixed when I blew out some dirt and moisture from my outside O2 sensor connector but the problem came back within about 48 hours. I'm hoping cleaning the idle valve fixes my random poor idle and hesitation issue. Mine acts up after running for 2-3 min from being dead cold till it is fully warmed up. So dead cold its fine and fully warmed up its fine, its the the 15-20 min of running time it takes to get fully warmed up when it acts up for me. I've done plugs because they were worn but no change, tested my air flow meter and O2 sensors, checked cap and rotor. If the idle valve cleaning doesn't do anything I'm going to pull the throttle body and EGR valve next weekend and inspect the harness. My O2 sensors should be replaced based on miles and age but they tested in spec with my meter. I'm trying to only test, replace or clean one item at a time so I can figure out what fixes the issue.
 
*UPDATE*
Removed and cleaned the idle valve the best I could and shot some PB blaster in it to lubricate it. I also cleaned the port the idle valve goes into but once the engine warmed up for a couple min the poor idle came back. One plus though is after I cleaned the valve it seemed to hold a higher idle longer when dead cold which it hasn't done since last year.

After some more digging around I found water in my outer O2 sensor connector again, the inside one up on the frame was fine. I blew out both halves of the connector with compressed air and filled it with dielectric grease. Seems to be fine now. I'm going to go by a bike shop this weekend and get a used bike tube and make a cover for the outer connector to help prevent or hopefully eliminate water getting in there again.

So if you haven't done it yet check your O2 sensor connectors for water and put dielectric grease in them before you put it together to prevent water from getting in there too.
 
OK Gang, I have checked the wires behind the EGR twice, twice and rewrapped with heat tape, and the wire through the fire wall, behind glove box. the O2 sensors have been replaced, (it never had any code or CEL) I have replaced the fuel pump and sock, done a tune up, plug wires, distributor cap, rotor, plugs, and intake hose, Changed the fuel filter, twice. I ran BK44, Chevron Techroline, and Seafoam thru the gas tank many times. Replaced all the vacuum hoses. Replaced the TPS and the Air Idle valve motor. Then I changed the throttle cable, and accelerator cable. That same day I cleaned the MAF and really sprayed the throttle body heavy. I then started the engine. Ran it, then shut it off and sprayed with the throttle plate wide open. (I used MAF Cleaner) Ran it again. After that day my milage shot up to 14mpg highway!! (up from 11mpg), the acceleration was like new. With the new throttle cable the shifts were smooth and aggressive. It ran the best it had for years. Not one stutter, skip or stumble. At first I thought it was the new cables being freer and not sticking. One month later it stumbled again, a few times. so I cleaned the Throttle body again and the problem went away again. I believe the problem lies with a dirty throttle body. I am going to pull mine off this next week and really work it over. Then clean the EGR port in the intake manifold as well. I hope this is the end of it, Whew
 
update for me as well.

Ok the throttle body came off and get cleaned up royal this weekend, and the EGR port was only about 1/2 of the original diameter so cleaned out all that crud. checked EGR valve and the wire harness one more time (I may have found small pinhole in insulation of two wires, wrapped, and then wrapped every slightly discolored wire ) MY O2 sensors are like yours, age says may need them changed but they test fine. I have some old bike tube I will cover mine as well. So far she's running nice! Thanks for all the feedback, and lets cross our fingers to keep these beasts a running. :bounce:
 
This just started with my '97 in the last couple weeks, seems like I'm in for some fun. :)

Thanks for keeping this thread up to date, hopefully it's gonna help me out.
 
I picked up a 93 two months ago for very cheap and after a few days was having all the exact same symptoms listed above. All wires, connectors and vacuum hoses checked out ok. I changed the distributor, wires and plugs. After changing the plugs the problem went away for a day or two but returned with a vengeance. Based on the conversation above I decided to do the following:

1. Clean the MAF Sensor
2. Remove and clean the throttle body
3. Change the Fuel Filter.

In the end I had my folks visiting and a new baby to deal with so I had my mechanic take care of it. I picked it up two weeks ago and it has run perfectly every since, on road and off, with a full load and empty, up the steepest slopes and in bumper to bumper to bumper traffic. Since I had these three items all done at the same time I can't say for sure which one fixed the problem but my mechanic is confident that it was the throttle body. Apparently the previous owner had over-tightened the cable and the throttle never fully closed and it was flooding itself out. I had thought that it seemed to idle a little high when i first drove it but the throttle cable seemed quite loose and the RPMs at idle were at what I thought to be within a reasonable range. Of course all three repairs were probably needed anyways and for the $80 my mechanic charged me to do everything I couldn't go wrong. Thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread.
Aloha from Hawaii
 
If I had to do it all over again, I'd start with hot tanking the throttle body and blowing out all the passageways.
 
I've cleaned the TB not long ago, cleared the EGR passage. Im thinking its engine harness related as the PO hacked it to hell then butt connected it all back together chasing a similar stall issue. I think a total replacement is in order.
 
I had the same issue a couple of years ago, chased it with new parts until it started doing it really bad one day (on a weekend trip in OK with a bunch of others) and one of our guys walks up to the group of us standing around the opened hood of mine after it refused to go up a mild hill and says: "I hear they have a problem with the engine harness getting up against the EGR transfer tube, like that" as he points to the engine harness in mine, resting comfortably against the EGR transfer tube. The deal is, when there's little to no load on the engine, the mounts are not loaded up by torque and the harness was far enough away from the EGR to not make contact. When I got on the throttle, torque tweaked the engine mounts just enough to pull the harness and touch. This was not a problem for the first three months or so after the head gasket was done (whole 'nother story there) but after a while, the combination of heat and friction rubbed a hole through the harness sheathing and then one (yes one) wire in the harness. That wire just happened to be the tach signal circuit from the distributor. As soon as that wire shorted, the engine basically lost spark, which caused the engine mounts to "relax", allowing the harness to move away from the EGR tube and break the short.
Imagine not only my embarrassment, being a semi-retired automotive whiz, but that of the friend of mine who was also there that did the head gasket for me and incorrectly routed the harness during the work.
A simple zip tie or two fixed it for the weekend, and I now have the harness re-routed.
 

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