Engine cuts at cruising speed (2 Viewers)

[4joggin]

So the other day driving my LX home from work I had an issue. When driving, not accelerating or picking up speed, just a steady speed. The engine cuts out for 1/2 second to a second then runs fine. It did this 4 or 5 times during my 20 mile commute home. Happened at highway speed and around 30 mph. The tach drops quickly then goes back to normal.

I replaced the fuseable link. So, today it did it again but only once during my 20 mile commute home, didn’t happen on the way to work. 40% secondary roads and 60% highway.

No CEL, Spark plugs are 10K miles old. Wires are 20K miles old. I unplugged cylinder 1 and a noticeable stumble happened. Plugged back in and obviously ran fine. Head gasket replaced 10k ago as well with all the other things. Water pump thermostat and just about every gasket. Runs awesome except for this issue which stated last Thursday.

I checked the 15 Amp EFI fuse while the truck was idling and tried to giggly it. It stayed running fine.

When I replaced the fuseable link I inspected the battery terminals, and all were tight. Checked all grounds in the engine bay all are good. Radio stayed on and the PWR light in the dash stayed on as well. So, I don’t think it’s electric related.

Also, inspected main wiring harness all good and wrapped and heat taped.

Thinking fuel related. I’m going to drive it all week to work and try to see if it will throw a code. Fuel filter hasn’t been replaced during my 7 years of ownership now at 220k

Also TRD supercharged. Aftermarket Magnaflow cat. 5 years old as well as new OEM O2 sensors 5 years old.

Only about 3000k miles are put on a year.

Any ideas would be appreciated.

 

[baldilocks]

The engine cuts out abruptly as if you turned the key to OFF or it stumbles/bogs? The fact that it cuts and then corrects in such a short time leads me toward ignition. Will be following along.

 

[4joggin]

The engine cuts out abruptly as if you turned the key to OFF or it stumbles/bogs? The fact that it cuts and then corrects in such a short time leads me toward ignition. Will be following along.

No stumbling or bogging. Accelerates fine, pulls up hill fine. Starts fine hot and cold.

Correct, cuts out abruptly then totally fine.

 

[BILT4ME]

No stumbling or bogging. Accelerates fine, pulls up hill fine. Starts fine hot and cold.

Correct, cuts out abruptly then totally fine.

Check the plug above the distributor. They are known to crack and come loose.

Did you use Toyota cap and rotor and wires? What plugs are you using?

I agree with @baldilocks . I think it electrical or ignition.

 

[4joggin]

Check the plug above the distributor. They are known to crack and come loose.

Did you use Toyota cap and rotor and wires? What plugs are you using?

I agree with @baldilocks . I think it electrical or ignition.

I have OEM wires and Denso plugs for booster FZJs. I got them from Joey in the tune up kit.

I’ll have to pull the spark plugs and check the condition, and take a good look at everything

Might take a look at the fuel pump relay…?

I agree with @baldilocks Its like I turn the key off super quickly then turn the key back on…. I mean like lightening fast. Ha

 

[baldilocks]

@BILT4ME suggested the connector at the distributor. I thought the same thing initially. Simply disconnecting and reconnecting an old connector can solve an issue.

 

[4joggin]

@BILT4ME suggested the connector at the distributor. I thought the same thing initially. Simply disconnecting and reconnecting an old connector can solve an issue.

The ignition wire? The single one from the ignition coil to the distributor? I did disconnect the end from the ignition coil. But not the end at the distributor. I’ll do that now.

 

[baldilocks]

We are referring to the electrical connector that feeds the distributor.

The ignition wire? The single one from the ignition coil to the distributor? I did disconnect the end from the ignition coil. But not the end at the distributor. I’ll do that now.

 

[BILT4ME]

The ignition wire? The single one from the ignition coil to the distributor? I did disconnect the end from the ignition coil. But not the end at the distributor. I’ll do that now.

The large plug on top of the distributor. Sometimes the wires get broken because it's exposed on top and one might set their hand on it to support themselves and it breaks the wires or loosens the plug.

The fact that the tach drops to nothing then comes back indicates electrical.

I'm calling @jonheld to the discussion because I recall him solving one like this previously.

 

[OffRoadScott]

We recently had an issue similar to this in our delivery trucks for work. The driver thought it was the ignition switch as there was some play in the ignition.

The problem showed itself when the driver would hit bumps/potholes in the road. The mechanic trouble shot it and it ended up being a small hairline crack in a fuse.

Also, I would not rule out the ignition switch. In my older 99 Honda Civic while on the freeway it would shut off, completely similar to what you are describing.

Honda had previously issued a recall on the ignition switch due a faulty switch.

 

[JoeCova]

Def something with the wiring or plugs. Also try running higher octane fuel for a bit.

 

[alia176]

The large plug on top of the distributor. Sometimes the wires get broken because it's exposed on top and one might set their hand on it to support themselves and it breaks the wires or loosens the plug.

The fact that the tach drops to nothing then comes back indicates electrical.

I'm calling @jonheld to the discussion because I recall him solving one like this previously.

this is a strong possibility and in my case, finally broke and killed the engine while driving on the hwy. It's a single wire terminated into a three position connector near the dizzy. I had to run a new wire and got rid of the connector as this isn't a connector one typically plays with by disconnecting.