Engine and Transmission Mounts (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

izzyandsue

Izzy
SILVER Star
Joined
Oct 31, 2014
Threads
114
Messages
6,664
Location
Charlotte, NC
Website
www.tactegra.com
Looking for advise on changing both engine mount and transmission mount. I can hear the clunk and can visually see the motor is moving a lot more than it used when going from P or N to gear. Also spending the day at Brown Mountain didn't make it better.
Anyway, any tips welcome, hoping to do this in my driveway unless its better to have a shop with an cherry picker do it.
 
I have a cherry picker. I have never done it on the 80 i have done it on the 62 and it is not bad.
 
Plenty of room on an 80. You have access to a cherry picker it shouldn't take no time at all. I would loosen the transmission mount. Then slightly loosen the front motor mounts. use the cherry picker to pick up one side swap out that mount then switch to the other side then do the transmission mount and tighten everything back up.
 
Let me ask this first, the engine in park or neutral, when I rev it, it doesn’t move much. But at idle, put it in heat and it moves a good bit. Any thoughts on changing all mounts or just engine ones?
 
Let me ask this first, the engine in park or neutral, when I rev it, it doesn’t move much. But at idle, put it in heat and it moves a good bit. Any thoughts on changing all mounts or just engine ones?

A tranny in heat is never a good thing, just ask Eddie Murphy ;)

If you are going to do the motor mounts and even suspect.the trans mount I'd just do them all at the same time. One less thing to worry about.
 
Last edited:
given the places you drive it if you can swing it, i would do them all. if the one went its going to put a lot of flex on the others.

you wont see and movement in park/neutral. put it in drive and add a few hundred rpms with the brakes on. do the same in reverse. if one is broke it will flex a lot more in one direction.
 
I was out earlier waiting for my son to get back so I can crawl under and he can put it on gear (cant do that with my wife, my life insurance is too high), and the transmission one doesn't flex. But the passenger side engine mount does move a lot. So will be ordering them all, but the engine ones I do need to change quickly. Getting OEM, as I am planning on driving it for another 20 years.
 
Don't need a cherry picker.

Transmission mount first IMO. You can do it without completely removing the crossmember.

1. unbolt mount from crossmember (two nuts sticking straight down)
2. floor jack to jack up transmission from pan (use a block of wood to spread out load)
3. unbolt mount from transmission
4. loosen crossmember as needed to get old mount out and new mount in
5. reverse order

Engine mounts can be done with a floor jack too. Oil pan is strong.

1. unbolt PS engine mount while still in truck
2. floor jack under oil pan with block of wood to spread out the load
3. jack engine up far enough that you can get the old mount out
4. put new mount in, then reverse order, and same for other side


Piece of cake.
 
Thanks Johnny! I was contemplating how to without cherry picker, once I realized the PO had removed the engine picking tab and gave it to me with a bunch of other stuff. Now I can't find it...

I tested the nuts this morning, to make sure I can at least remove them and that seemed to work. I may need to use the wood underneath and floor jack. Will have to stack some wood anyway as the jack won't reach the bottom of the motor (23" max on jack).

But then, in the back of my mind, I know Dave and Rafa know a s*** ton more about doing things like these than I do.....
 
Can't lift the transmission with a cherry picker anyway :p

Can do both motor mounts at the same time also.
 
You know that feeling where you read the symptoms to a disease, then you suddenly have that disease. That's this thread, but with trucks.
 
I know I have this disease. I hear the clunk, I feel the vibrations...
 
Maybe somebody just zip tied a piece of rebar to your driveshaft? Always check the obvious first.
Thats what friends are for!
Anyway, the mounts are coming today, not sure when I will have a schedule break to put them on as this is a 2 hour project which equates to a 4 day project for me after broken bolts and other things being destroyed in the process.
 
Well, havent had a chance to do this yet, had to fix a few computers over the weekend, burned all the sunlight. But for those looking for the symptoms, here is a video from the top, going from N to D, D to N, N to R, R to N, repeat.



And this is view from below, the driver side mount

 
Quick update, tried to get the driver side nut off, there is no room with all giblets in that space. Is there a trick I am missing? I can see then passenger side I can remove the air cleaner box for access. But the driver side nut is nuts.
 
i don't remember anything that wasn't straight forward but, the 97' might be a little different then the 94 was.
 
Had a shop replace the mounts today while I was at work. I saw the old mounts, one was completely separated, the other one was quite squished. The nuts are on tight. So here is the after video, it seems to me that the motor actually moves more than before. Will have to see other 80s at Logans Run to compare....

 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom