Ok, guys late at night, new pads came in from kurt and have been dieing to put them on. I just went to lowes and bought the 27mm socket, now how do you remove the nut. It seems like there is some kind of spacer in front of it? How does that come off.
emergency brake drum removal real time
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fjwagon
SILVER Star
Spray some PB blaster and let sit but since you are dying to do it, 
go and remove the drive shaft. Next start unbolting it....and remove, it pretty easy actually. I think item 5 can be adjusted to loosen the shoes.......it been long while. It's lot easier than it looks. If I remember correctly I took the drum to a local auto parts store to have it turn. Mine hard broken hardware inside rolling around. It pretty much tore up the drum pretty good but at the I was able to salvage it. Good Luck.
http://www.sor.com/sor/cat076.tam?xax=15376&page.ctx=cat076.tam
go and remove the drive shaft. Next start unbolting it....and remove, it pretty easy actually. I think item 5 can be adjusted to loosen the shoes.......it been long while. It's lot easier than it looks. If I remember correctly I took the drum to a local auto parts store to have it turn. Mine hard broken hardware inside rolling around. It pretty much tore up the drum pretty good but at the I was able to salvage it. Good Luck. http://www.sor.com/sor/cat076.tam?xax=15376&page.ctx=cat076.tam
Josie'sLandCruiser
Stop calling it a "FJ."
Hi All:
To remove the rear drive shaft-mounted parking brake, put the vehicle in first gear, with parking brake not engaged.
Remove the rear drive shaft. Once one removes the drive shaft an large nut will be exposed. Use a 27mm (1 & 1/16ths inch) socket to remove this nut. Tap the parking brake drum a fewtimes with a brass mamer then pull-off. If this drum wouldn't come off go double-check that the parking brake mechanism is not engaged.
Refer to a quality repair manual (Toyota factory ,etc.) for how to service the parking brake mechanism.
Regards,
Alan
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To remove the rear drive shaft-mounted parking brake, put the vehicle in first gear, with parking brake not engaged.
Remove the rear drive shaft. Once one removes the drive shaft an large nut will be exposed. Use a 27mm (1 & 1/16ths inch) socket to remove this nut. Tap the parking brake drum a fewtimes with a brass mamer then pull-off. If this drum wouldn't come off go double-check that the parking brake mechanism is not engaged.
Refer to a quality repair manual (Toyota factory ,etc.) for how to service the parking brake mechanism.
Regards,
Alan
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never come across one of those before... got a pic ?
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
never mind no spacer, but i still can't get it off, no matter how hard i push or pull.Will pb blaster really make any difference, i have sprayed wd40 all over the bitch. Any tricks?
No trick, but if the last person in there knew their stuff, they put some permatex on the splines of the output shaft to seal that small potential oil leak. IF the parking brake is fully disengaged, you just need to pull harder to get it off. I assume you got the nut on the output shaft off ok.
dgangle
total rice
All the PB Blaster is going to do is make a mess.
Use an impact or if you don't have one try a 1/2" breaker bar with a pipe to add leverage if necessary. The problem with #2 is that you will have to keep the vehicle from moving. Have someone sit inside and hold on the brakes (gotta put in 4WD) or do like suggested above. It will come off and then the fun begins. If you can't even get the nut off just wait until you see all the little gismos inside! You can do it.
I would highly recommend replacing the TC output seal while you have this all apart and verify the proper preload on the output bearing. You didn't really say why you were going through all this but rarely do parking brake shoes wear out. Most replace them because they don't work as they are soaked in 90wt from a leaking seal that shows up on your driveway/garage floor. If this is the case and you don't address the real problem you are waisting your time and $$ because you will need to do it all again soon. Futher, the drum is probably grooved which will require a speedy-sleeve, double seal trick or both to properly fix.
Use an impact or if you don't have one try a 1/2" breaker bar with a pipe to add leverage if necessary. The problem with #2 is that you will have to keep the vehicle from moving. Have someone sit inside and hold on the brakes (gotta put in 4WD) or do like suggested above. It will come off and then the fun begins. If you can't even get the nut off just wait until you see all the little gismos inside! You can do it.
I would highly recommend replacing the TC output seal while you have this all apart and verify the proper preload on the output bearing. You didn't really say why you were going through all this but rarely do parking brake shoes wear out. Most replace them because they don't work as they are soaked in 90wt from a leaking seal that shows up on your driveway/garage floor. If this is the case and you don't address the real problem you are waisting your time and $$ because you will need to do it all again soon. Futher, the drum is probably grooved which will require a speedy-sleeve, double seal trick or both to properly fix.
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sounds like the breaker bar from Lowe's might have been a bit short for the task.........use a loooong breaker bar usually the ones you will find at Lowe's or Home Depot are short; snap on has a very nice 36 incher; if not then use a "cheater " pipe over your breaker bar to give you leverage 4-5 feet more that way you might not bump your noggin again <ouch> I know the feeling having dropped a tranny on my eyebrow:whoops: where are you located; I am in T-Town
Lou
Lou
Southeast Overland
Get lost! Go explore!
air compressor + impact wrench = problem solved
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
emtee
HAHA...Wait, Wut?
Muriatic acid might be worth a shot; somebody (Mark W.?) suggested that stuff for stripping rust and it certainly does the trick. If you've got rust/permatex/etc. in there, a few dabs of acid via Q-tip onto the threads and try again in an hour or so. I managed to get some really stubborn WS hinge bolts out that way when I was breaking down my '66, and they were BADLY rusted...
Make sure you've got eye protection and try not to whiff the stuff...it's pretty stout. Available at Home Cheapo, etc.
Make sure you've got eye protection and try not to whiff the stuff...it's pretty stout. Available at Home Cheapo, etc.
dgangle
total rice
PB Blaster, muratic acid, unstake the nut? WTF. You guys left out prayer.
JFC, hit it with an impact wrench and be done with it.
JFC, hit it with an impact wrench and be done with it.
emtee
HAHA...Wait, Wut?
yzftaco
Goofy-Goober
Seriously... impact wrench and it's off in 3 seconds......
1973Guppie
Supporting Vendor
pee on it, I swear that works!
dgangle
total rice
Ok, we have the following summary of recommendations in this order.
1. impact wrench
2. breaker bar with cheater
3 & 4 (tie) PB Blaster & muratic acid
5. urinate on it
6. prayer
blue-tipped wrench anyone?
1. impact wrench
2. breaker bar with cheater
3 & 4 (tie) PB Blaster & muratic acid
5. urinate on it
6. prayer
blue-tipped wrench anyone?
1973Guppie
Supporting Vendor
have your grandpa fart on it.
did you swear at it? Always helps me.
I assume you removed the carter pin from the nut, right?
I always just use a cheater bar on a 1/2" socket wrench. You can get that nut off with the parking brake on, then disengage the brake when you take the drum off. Another trick is to tighten the nut a crack, then loosen. Works great on frozen screws too (like the windshield screws).
cheers-
Dustin
I assume you removed the carter pin from the nut, right?
I always just use a cheater bar on a 1/2" socket wrench. You can get that nut off with the parking brake on, then disengage the brake when you take the drum off. Another trick is to tighten the nut a crack, then loosen. Works great on frozen screws too (like the windshield screws).
cheers-
Dustin
