emergency brake drum removal real time

[Cruiserdrew]

I assume you removed the carter pin from the nut, right?


cheers-
Dustin

I'm not certain, but I think the 79 has a stake nut, not a cotter pin. Badass needs to get more badass with it and get the job done. He may not have air tools, but an Impact would be the right tool. Failing that, he needs to engage the front drive, block the wheels and turn it out with a long cheater bar.

I've done this several times and I never remember it being an issue. Maybe something else is wrong?

 

[Josie'sLandCruiser]

Hi All:

Humm, you might have to drop the t-case to get this p-brake drum nut removed!

Now, you are trying to turn this nut counter-clockwise, right?

When I have "stubborn" fasteners to remove I usually heat 'em up with a propane (bottle) torch first; the expanding/contracting from heating then cooling seems to help break the grip between the fasteners.

Good luck!

Alan

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Thanks David, i went to lowes and bought a breaker bar, i put it into 4wd, brakes, pulled as hard as i could, son of bitch didn't even budge, it slipped off and i hit my head. Don't know what to do.

 

[vtcruiser60]

I would highly recommend replacing the TC output seal while you have this all apart and verify the proper preload on the output bearing. You didn't really say why you were going through all this but rarely do parking brake shoes wear out. Most replace them because they don't work as they are soaked in 90wt from a leaking seal that shows up on your driveway/garage floor. If this is the case and you don't address the real problem you are waisting your time and $$ because you will need to do it all again soon. Futher, the drum is probably grooved which will require a speedy-sleeve, double seal trick or both to properly fix.

Not to hijack...but maybe we could talk this through a bit more.

Everything above seems like sage advice, except the TC output seal. The seal actually seats itself in the speedo housing. Mudrak's duel seal unit adds a second seal. According to my books (for a 7/74 FJ40)...there is no such thing as a TC output seal. There is only the bearing, a spacer, shim and cam on the TC output. Am I missing something?

 

['74 UA FJ]

I suggest hitting the weight room. Impact is nice but a 1/2 inch breaker bar is more than sufficient, staked or not. Hit the bar with a 9 lb. hammer if you have to.

 

[Ming89FJ62]

78/79's both have staked nuts. Impact wrench and you're done.

 

['74 UA FJ]

Not to hijack...but maybe we could talk this through a bit more.

Everything above seems like sage advice, except the TC output seal. The seal actually seats itself in the speedo housing. Mudrak's duel seal unit adds a second seal. According to my books (for a 7/74 FJ40)...there is no such thing as a TC output seal. There is only the bearing, a spacer, shim and cam on the TC output. Am I missing something?

People call the seal behind the parking brake the transfer case output seal. Go back to your books.

 

[vtcruiser60]

Yes...I know that.

Let me rephrase. My point and I guess a question is whether there is a seal on the rear output shaft as there is on the front output shaft.

 

[John Smith]

So is this nut off yet? This is an epic.

 

[fj40_73]

epic continues......., are you sure you got all bits of the cotter pin out?

 

[Cruiserdrew]

epic continues......., are you sure you got all bits of the cotter pin out?

No cotter pin.

 

[vtcruiser60]

I think pre 1/74 40series had the castle nut and cotter pin. I know my 7/74 had the 27 mm NUT.

 

[fj40_73]

No cotter pin.

ooops, my 73 had one, I did not notice this was for a 79, which I have not touched before.

 

[rusty_tlc]

I'm not certain, but I think the 79 has a stake nut, not a cotter pin. Badass needs to get more badass with it and get the job done. He may not have air tools, but an Impact would be the right tool. Failing that, he needs to engage the front drive, block the wheels and turn it out with a long cheater bar.

I've done this several times and I never remember it being an issue. Maybe something else is wrong?

Don't forget to lock the hubs.

 

[Filter]

Ok, we have the following summary of recommendations in this order.

1. impact wrench

2. breaker bar with cheater

3 & 4 (tie) PB Blaster & muratic acid

5. urinate on it

6. prayer

blue-tipped wrench anyone?

How about:

7. breaker bar wedged against frame, front hubs unlocked, t-case in low, engine revving to ~4000 pop the clutch!!! if the truck flips then yeah, it's stuck pretty good.

 

[texas dogman]

My 73 for sure has the cotter pin, and my 74 had a stake nut. I had just a little trouble getting the 74 off just earlier this week, but as soon as found my 27 mm socket, it came off with just cheater pipe.

Before I found the 27mm socket, I was just trying to knock it loose with a punch and hammer, but that was just tearing up the brass nut. (I think it was brass, seem very soft).

 

[Hugh Heifer]

Did you unstake the stake nut?

Bingo - that was what I was going to ask!

 

[DaveWest5150]

Not tring to be funny or anything.. but remember...righty tighty.. lefty loosey

 

[badass]

Bingo - that was what I was going to ask!

Yea i got it open eventually, took two heavyset guys to get it open.

 

[IDave]

Yea i got it open eventually, took two heavyset guys to get it open.

 

[peesalot]

have one person hold socket and breaker bar on nut, slide 6 ft pipe over bar, stand next to driver door and jump on it.

There is a tool made to hold pinion flanges that works really well, it bolts to driveline studs and is long enough to catch the pass side frame rail , makes holding it alot, alot, alot, alot, alot easier.