I know many have added a secondary "fuse panel" for various add-ons, but where does one find an "ignition-on" power lead? ie the panel is hot only when the ignition is keyed on?
Embarresed I can't search this question
- Thread starter rickysa
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From memory: to the right side of the steering column there's a single-row terminal block with maybe eight wires going through it. One of them is a thick, black one. That appears to be the ignition-on feed.
The only reason I know this is because that's where a relay was wired for the previous owner's alarm installation.
The only reason I know this is because that's where a relay was wired for the previous owner's alarm installation.
thedoughboy
SILVER Star
You could tap into the cigarette lighter to trigger a relay that then would supply power to the panel. However, the relay you use would need to be rated appropriately for the panel you are installing.
If you pull the existing fuse panel the cigarette lighter can be tapped pretty easily. I have a picture of this somewhere but won't have access to it until later today.
If you pull the existing fuse panel the cigarette lighter can be tapped pretty easily. I have a picture of this somewhere but won't have access to it until later today.
+1 on the cigarette lighter. That's where I tapped into for mine.
Malleus
Far west of Siegen
Why would you take the chance on frying the entire wiring harness when you could easily run a dedicated lead from the battery complete with a fusable link? It's not as though you're running power from a basement house panel into a third story attic. If you're competent enough to add a second fuse panel, this should not be a problem.
He still needs an ignition signal for a relay.
2fpower
SILVER Star
Where are you mounting the box? If by the passenger seat, there is a hot switched power at the relay to the rear heater.
If you are adding a second fuse box, do as Malleus said, and run a new, proper gauge lead, with proper fuse, straight from the battery. If you just need a switched power tap.... there is under passenger seat, under dash, rear quarter panel. Grab your test light and start checking wires...... or look at the FSM, that will show you everything.
I normally have three fuse panel, 1 for AUX, 1 for IGN and one hot. Both the AUX and IGN are on 30A relays. I generally tap right at the steering column. I have yet to transfer the fuse panels into my 80, pulled them out of my rolled over 62.
thedoughboy
SILVER Star
Just so the OP does not panic...If you tap the cig lighter AFTER the fuse box I do not believe the entire wire harness is in danger of being fried. The fused link in the fuse box would mitigate this from happening. Am I missing something?
As @Malleus said, I too would just tap straight into the battery with a fusible link. However, IF you want this new aux power box to be controlled by your ignition then the option outlined above may work for you.
As @Malleus said, I too would just tap straight into the battery with a fusible link. However, IF you want this new aux power box to be controlled by your ignition then the option outlined above may work for you.
- Thread starter
- #11
I have one and couldn't find a thing. I spoke with Christo (ordering parts) and was told to buy a EWD (elec wiring diagram)...Thanks for all the suggestions, will go wire diving tomorrow
Larger gauge wire directly from the battery, fused as close to the battery as possible, rated appropriately for the size of wire/capacity of the secondary fuse panel. Interrupt that feeder wire somewhere along the way with an appropriately sized relay. Trigger the relay coil to turn on using a switched power source, like the cig lighter mentioned. Easy way to do that: get an add-a-fuse and install it on the cig lighter fuse in your fuse compartment with a 5amp fuse or something.
This way your new panel is protected, the relay coil wire is protected, and the panel is only energized while ignition is on.
As an electrician, I cringe seeing things done any other way.
To get funky, you could also install a "bypass" switch to turn the relay on even when the vehicle is not turned on, have two panels, or split the bus on your new panel so you could have a mix of always -on or switched loads, etc.
Regardless, protection and relays, don't just run new loads off of existing wiring.
This way your new panel is protected, the relay coil wire is protected, and the panel is only energized while ignition is on.
As an electrician, I cringe seeing things done any other way.
To get funky, you could also install a "bypass" switch to turn the relay on even when the vehicle is not turned on, have two panels, or split the bus on your new panel so you could have a mix of always -on or switched loads, etc.
Regardless, protection and relays, don't just run new loads off of existing wiring.
Malleus
Far west of Siegen
Depends on what he connects, right? I'd always run a dedicated loop. Think about overtasking a 25 year old wiring harness, especially when you don't know what the original design safety factor was. I'd pay real money to someone who could argue that they could calculate it. Even if you only want a key-on hot loop, you'd be money ahead running your own, IMHO.
