I give up….what is this? (1 Viewer)

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Southlake, TX
I think this is part of the hand brake, but I can’t find this rubber boot on any diagrams on PartSouq. Mine is split and was full of rusty, muddy water. I want to replace it once I figure out what it is. I know it’s not a dikfer, turn-signal fluid reservoir or left handed windshield retainer.

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Load sensing proportioning valve. It adjusts braking bias based on load in your truck
 
I think this is part of the hand brake, but I can’t find this rubber boot on any diagrams on PartSouq. Mine is split and was full of rusty, muddy water. I want to replace it once I figure out what it is. I know it’s not a dikfer, turn-signal fluid reservoir or left handed windshield retainer.

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That is the LSPV.
Load Sending Proportioning Valve.
That was probably not water that came out, but brake fluid

Has your brake fluid reservoir been losing fluid?

I believe you can get a new boot with a rod kit. However, if it is leaking fluid it needs to be replaced. I replaced mine about a year ago and it fixed some of my braking issues.

Many folks here will say to bypass it and install your own Proportioning Valve.
I like to keepy truck original with systems so I keep mine.
You decide what you want.
 
That is the LSPV.
Load Sending Proportioning Valve.
That was probably not water that came out, but brake fluid

Has your brake fluid reservoir been losing fluid?

I believe you can get a new boot with a rod kit. However, if it is leaking fluid it needs to be replaced. I replaced mine about a year ago and it fixed some of my braking issues.

Many folks here will say to bypass it and install your own Proportioning Valve.
I like to keepy truck original with systems so I keep mine.
You decide what you want.
Thanks. I’ll check the reservoir but fortunately so far brakes have been operating normally. I’ll order the full kit
 
The pressure bleeder was a great tool to add to the garage. The leak stop clamps also helped. Remember the orientation of the rod. After replacing the hardware and boots it took a minute to remember. No other real tips other than prepare for a fight with the bolts holding the lspv in place.
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Good luck and would appreciate any quick notes from post-op.
Make sure to buy the bolts that hold the LSPV to the frame. Those are very long through bolts and you MUST pull the bolts to get the old valve off.

I had to grind/cut off the bolts, then get them out of the bracket.

Plan on removing the entire bracket and buying new bolts for that too.

Use anti-seize on everything when going back together.

Installing the new rubber boot requires a medium flat screwdriver that is very rounded and dull. Hawk Tuah on that thing!

PB Blaster on everything for a week before you start.

I cleaned, straightened and painted my bracket before I put it back on.

Go slowly and lots of back and forth on loosening the brake lines. Don't twist off a fitting. They haven't moved in 30 years.
 
Surprised I never got to this but probably because the whole assembly is mummified and hidden under 30 years of road crust.

This gonna be interesting to get off but I see where a dremel grinder may come into play.
 
I’ll be doing this job starting Monday. New lspv and extended lines front and rear. These from Amazon will help not loose fluie

Fluid stoppers.
If you're going to be removing your brake lines, you will thank yourself for having these Irwin Vise-Grips in size 8 (4 inch) and 4 (7 inch). Not rounding off the metal fittings on the ends of the brake lines is Very Difficult, in my experience, without this tool. Even my flare wrenches were coming open on me. With these Vise-Grips, I was able to get each fitting off without rounding even one. Another option would be to just cut the metal line and get a 6 sided socket on the fitting. That sounded like a mess to me, and I like to have the right tool if possible. YMMV, just a suggestion.
 

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