I paid 187$ for it here.. I think it would be too expensive compared to what you could have it made for in the U.S , and I bet someone will start making those for sale soon
as it's a very simple mechanism
Elocker to air conversion thread
- Thread starter Camino
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I paid 187$ for it here.. I think it would be too expensive compared to what you could have it made for in the U.S , and I bet someone will start making those for sale soon
as it's a very simple mechanism
I think it would be a good decision to inclose the air cylinder and solenoid in a water tight steel box, thus providing protection from the elements, and keeping the new actuator as one unit, where all you need to hook up is the switch and air. Once i get my OBA set up, I will give this a go.
- Thread starter
- #44
Slee,
I have been using 60 lbs pressure on my garage compressor and it works fine. When I get my CO2 tank hooked up, I will lower the pressure to see how little it takes. To measure the stroke, I just took calipers and set them at zero unlocked, then spun the tire while putting a little pressure on the shift fork with a screwdriver, then... when it popped into lock, I re-measured. I did it about 8 times and came up with the same measurement each time. it was right at 12 mm. I bought a 1/2" stroke air cylinder and it seems to work great. A couple of summers on the Rubicon should test the unit in real world. If I had a machine shop build the shaft, I would just have them copy the length and diameter of the stock accuator shaft, as well as the stock shift fork bolt threads so the original bolt (with the shoulder ) could be used.
The guy who wanted to put air valve and air cylinder inside a sealed box is not understanding the simplisity of this. The air valve is 12 volt, mounted in the cab is out of the weather. The air cylinder is very small, costs $12 made of aluminum or stainless and super easy to replace. Go simple. L.B.
I have been using 60 lbs pressure on my garage compressor and it works fine. When I get my CO2 tank hooked up, I will lower the pressure to see how little it takes. To measure the stroke, I just took calipers and set them at zero unlocked, then spun the tire while putting a little pressure on the shift fork with a screwdriver, then... when it popped into lock, I re-measured. I did it about 8 times and came up with the same measurement each time. it was right at 12 mm. I bought a 1/2" stroke air cylinder and it seems to work great. A couple of summers on the Rubicon should test the unit in real world. If I had a machine shop build the shaft, I would just have them copy the length and diameter of the stock accuator shaft, as well as the stock shift fork bolt threads so the original bolt (with the shoulder ) could be used.
The guy who wanted to put air valve and air cylinder inside a sealed box is not understanding the simplisity of this. The air valve is 12 volt, mounted in the cab is out of the weather. The air cylinder is very small, costs $12 made of aluminum or stainless and super easy to replace. Go simple. L.B.
sub'd
does this way to lock the rear faster than the elocked version?
does this way to lock the rear faster than the elocked version?
- Thread starter
- #46
The elocker is slower, but the wheel still has to spin to line it up to be locked, so It probably won't make much difference. L.B.
So who is gonna start building these to sell??? 
- Thread starter
- #48
The aluminum plate is no big deal to fabricate. The shaft is really the only difficult part. If I knew someone with a lathe or milling machine, I would buy 8 shafts at a time, and resell them with all the parts. This method is so simple it bogles the mind. This morning I am installing the air valve and testing the unit in the rocks. Then I will make a list of all the part numbers, prices and dimensions, and post pics. L.B.
subscribed...thanks for documenting this. My axles are on stands, prep'd and ready for swapping onto my rig, me thinks I need to do this before the swap...
- Thread starter
- #50
We tested the locker and it works grreat! It runs on 70 lbs pressure. Here are the (crappy) pics of the final install. The air valve is at the top of the pic with The input line going down to the tank, output line going left to the locker air cylinder, and a small brass vent(that air escapes from when unlocked). The tank goes thru the regulator up to the air valve, with a quick connect for air tools. The switch is the one on the right (not labled) and the red light goes on only when locked. When I have time, I will have a machine shop build the shaft for me and build this same unit with a 1 1/16" bore cylinder instead of a 3/4" bore air cylinder. The larger bore cylinder has a larger return spring and takes less pressure to operate. L.B.
L.B.
Thanks for posting all of your work. It's amazing how simple and inexpensive the system is once you've figured it out.
I imagine it won't be long before somebody starts making a kit to do this. What, two machined parts?
I imagine it won't be long before somebody starts making a kit to do this. What, two machined parts?
alia176
SILVER Star
We tested the locker and it works grreat! It runs on 70 lbs pressure. Here are the (crappy) pics of the final install. The air valve is at the top of the pic with The input line going down to the tank, output line going left to the locker air cylinder, and a small brass vent(that air escapes from when unlocked). The tank goes thru the regulator up to the air valve, with a quick connect for air tools. The switch is the one on the right (not labled) and the red light goes on only when locked. When I have time, I will have a machine shop build the shaft for me and build this same unit with a 1 1/16" bore cylinder instead of a 3/4" bore air cylinder. The larger bore cylinder has a larger return spring and takes less pressure to operate.
Nice job dude! I do have one concern and that is the use of the push in fitting and tube. Given the frequency of the axle moving up/down, I don't think this fitting will be able to withstand the abuse. The tubing is too stiff and seems to be vertical, which could be detrimental by putting extra force on the plastic 90deg fitting. Just some feedback, take it for what its worth
- Thread starter
- #53
What you can't see from the pic is that the tubeing from the locker air cylinder goes up into a loop before going into the cab. We tested it in the rocks and there is no binding. I think ARB uses push-on fittings also. Only time will tell, If the push-on fittings won't hold up, it is simple to replace with compression fittings.
alia176
SILVER Star
Just as FYI, ARB uses compression fittings at the diff. The quick push in fittings are only used at the compressor.
Thanks for sharing the innovation.
-B-
-B-
- Thread starter
- #56
When I build my new units ( I am ordering shafts and parts to build several new units) I will use ARB compression fittings.
I have noticed that when I close the valve on the CO2 tank, the pressure in the system reads normal on the pressure regulator. Then a couple of hours later, it reads zero. I have sprayed soap on the fittings, but no bubbles. Does anyone have an ARB system? And if so, does the system hold pressure when turned off, or does it leak down to zero? I realize that with an onboard compressor, it really does not matter, But with a CO2 tank, a slow fitting leak can drain the tank. Thanx for the help, L.B.
I have noticed that when I close the valve on the CO2 tank, the pressure in the system reads normal on the pressure regulator. Then a couple of hours later, it reads zero. I have sprayed soap on the fittings, but no bubbles. Does anyone have an ARB system? And if so, does the system hold pressure when turned off, or does it leak down to zero? I realize that with an onboard compressor, it really does not matter, But with a CO2 tank, a slow fitting leak can drain the tank. Thanx for the help, L.B.
- Thread starter
- #58
I still have not got a reasonable estimate on the shafts. I am trying to find a machine shop (or any dude with a lathe in his garage) to make me 9/16" diameter (end-tapped) 3" long shafts for $40.00 each. I will supply the 9/16" bolts for shaft material, I just need someone to tap one end with 5/16-24 threads. I plan on making the plates and assembling 10 of them. L.B.
There is a market on here for this, I would buy one provided the price is reasonable.
Thanks for the research
Same here. I'd love to ditch the finicky electronic actuator and switch to air, especially since I already have a compressor on board.
