Elocker to air conversion thread (1 Viewer)

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Jcardona1,
I contacted Chil-Cat before I started this and asked if they had a cable accuated system for the rear 9.5 inch and they said no (their 8 inch toyota system is around $600.00). I'm sure if the 9.5 inch was easy, they would sell one.
I looked at the price of cables and to get a good water proof marine cable setup with shifter, It was about $400. And then you have to design all the brackets. A cheap bike cable and shifter would just fall apart.
The air cylinder only requires fabrication of a small shaft and a small plate with holes drilled. The CO2 tank also runs air tools, so for around $250.00 we have a locker accuator and onboard air! ;)
 
This is a close up of the small shaft made out of a bolt. It shows the 1/4 NF threads on the half inch plunger sticking out of the air cylinder. The aluminum plate only needs 4 mounting holes (and one hole in the middle for the air cylinder to mount). All of the xtra holes were already in the scrap piece of aluminum plate that I used, bu they are not a problem. :)

shaft.jpg
 
Excellent work!! Might I suggest fabricating a housing of some sort to protect the cylinder from damage while wheeling?
 
I will take pictures of mine when I take it off the next time, maybe I will do it tomorrow or the day after
need to seal it up better, next two days will be getting the truck ready for a 4day trip
 
Yeah, I will fab a small skid plate for it in do time...
 
I am waiting for parts to arrive. I ordered a 10# aluminum CO2 tank, a 3 way 12 volt solinoid, a viair regulator, a safety valve and quick disconnect air hose fittings. Once mounted, I will be able to activate the locker from dash switch, and plug in air hose with quick disconnect for air tools and airing up tires>
so far:
air cylinder $11.50
CO2 tank $69.00
regulator $29.00
solinoid $31.00
dash switch $18.00
misc parts $30.00
shipping and tax $45.00

Total $233.50

The dash switch has an independent light so regardless weather or not the switch is on, the light will work off of the stock lock/switch on diff. Once I remove the unit from the truck (to seal and locktight it), I will take detailed pics of installation. :)
Great thread! Any chance you can post links to the regulator and solenoid you used? Also, on the shaft you machined out of a bolt, is that a set screw you added to secure the shaft to the cylinders thread, or does it serve another purpose? Thanks. I will definantly be doing this to my rig. the rear locker went out and this seems much easier than trying to rebuild the actuator. Thinking about setting this up with a 12oz paintball co2 tank.
 
I don't have the oem E-lockers but find this thread to be very informative. Currently, I'm working with a bloke who has an Australian FJ40 LX with cable actuated diff locks. I think this would be a good solution for him as well.
 
I am still waiting on the solinoid/valve. I will take pics of it with the Viair regulator and dash switch when it arrives. The original shaft had a bolt with a shoulder on it. I intended on using the original bolt but I could not find a tap for the fine metric threads on the original Bolt. It goes through the shift fork and into the shaft (it is the bolt behind the limit switch cover that has to be removed to pull the elocker/accuator out). So I just drilled and tapped 1/4" NC threads and put in a stainless allen bolt. I filled the tank (it was an exchange) for $31.00. This is a pic of our tank bracket and rear roll bar. L.B.

web bar co2.jpg
 
Why are you using a new switch and not the stock locker switch? Couldn't the wires to the oem motor be ran to the solenoid without the use of a new switch?
 
We have a 1992 that did not come with lockers. Someone (or the PO) put 1995 Elocker axles on it. They were not wired and there was not an OEM dash switch (it does have the center locker switch). We purchased Low Range brand aftermarket switches and harnesses. The front works fine with a red indicator light in the switch when "locked". The rear did not work. So I needed a matching switch with an indicator light in it when "locked". I am not sure if the OEM system shows indicator lights for front and rear "locked". L.B.
 
What pressure are you running on the cylinder? Is there enough "give" in the cylinder when you engage it to not put undue stress on the shift mechanism if it is not aligned to lock? Also, is the throw on the cylinder the same as the throw on the factory actuator? The factory actuator shifts the fork, but then there is no pressure on it when locked. Wondering if yours is functioning the same.

Pretty cool and a good idea for those with trashed actuators.
 
I run mine with the full 145psi pressure thats in my system, but it only needs about 60psi to overcome the spring that disengages the lock

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Here are some pictures that I promised :)
took mine off to reseal it , and changed the oil in the diff at the same time
was contaminated with water, been doing a lot of water crossings and
driving in very wet snow
 
I run mine with the full 145psi pressure thats in my system, but it only needs about 60psi to overcome the spring that disengages the lock



Here are some pictures that I promised :)
took mine off to reseal it , and changed the oil in the diff at the same time
was contaminated with water, been doing a lot of water crossings and
driving in very wet snow
How long is that shaft? and what is its diameter?
 
ah you got me there.. didn't measure it when I took it out, didn't have anything to measure with, but I presume its the same length and width as the stock electric one, but cant be sure , alot of tought and work
went into making this one buy the guy who made it and it just works :)
 
ah you got me there.. didn't measure it when I took it out, didn't have anything to measure with, but I presume its the same length and width as the stock electric one, but cant be sure , alot of tought and work
went into making this one buy the guy who made it and it just works :)
How much did it cost you? Any chance your friend would be interested in sending one to the US?
 
ah you got me there.. didn't measure it when I took it out, didn't have anything to measure with, but I presume its the same length and width as the stock electric one, but cant be sure , alot of tought and work
went into making this one buy the guy who made it and it just works :)

Look up the link on the 1st post, I bet it's in the SPECs.
 
I run mine with the full 145psi pressure thats in my system, but it only needs about 60psi to overcome the spring that disengages the lock

Here are some pictures that I promised :)
took mine off to reseal it , and changed the oil in the diff at the same time
was contaminated with water, been doing a lot of water crossings and
driving in very wet snow

Sorry for this dumb question, but I don't have E-lockers in my 80. Does the actuator mechanism sit in 90wt gear oil?
 

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