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Thx! I’ll check my emailYou will see tracking info once it ships. The only orders I see that are not shipped are from the last two days and those will ship at some point today. Without your order number, or at least your name, I have no idea the status of your order. You should check your junk mail too if you think you are missing the tracking info.
Thanks,
Probably! All those switch’s and valves and hoses add up quick! My cart has everything I would need to overhaul the top side….not including a new manifold. Unfortunately, other than the work of cleaning out the manifold and throttle body, I don’t want to have to buy any of that stuff!I think you could get a new intake manifold for $1000
You need to systematically do the diagnostics while using the FSM.Probably! All those switch’s and valves and hoses add up quick! My cart has everything I would need to overhaul the top side….not including a new manifold. Unfortunately, other than the work of cleaning out the manifold and throttle body, I don’t want to have to buy any of that stuff!
A 93 does not use a MAF. A VAF is used but likely not related to codes you posted. More likely is O2 sensors, associated wiring or vacuum leaks including gapping cracks in the intake tube. You may have multiple causes. Throwing the parts cannon at the problem is going to be expensive and likely not going to solve the problems. You need to start a logical approach with the FSM in hand.So I have a 93 and been trying to diagnose a super bad idle with codes 23,25,26,31.
I installed a new vacuum modulator and a new MAF but didn’t help. I am thinking a vacuum switch, line or EGR prob.
I was planning to pull the intake and drop $1000 on all new parts hoses and switches and an EGR. I don’t want to do a physical EGR delete, because I want it to look stock. I just stumbled on this thread. Do you think this will this help me?
I wanted to give an update on this...I decided that I really wanted to do the EGR bypass, so I ordered a second kit. As soon as I installed it, my truck started to run poorly. I then uninstalled it, and the same thing. Long story short, I'm 99% sure that I have a harness issue near the EGR pipe (common issue on the 93-94's)...the intake is coming off tomorrow and I have a spare harness just in case mine is toast. I think that the tugging on the EGR temp sensor wire this time when installing the test plug again caused the issue to pop up that initially started on a wheeling trip last spring (suspecting the engine movement a bit when crawling/climbing). I'll update with the results, but wanted to say that I don't feel that the EGR delete test kit is to blame...thanks @LC4LIFE for a great product offering!I did this on my '94...worked well when it worked. I left the sensor in as the "plug" and I'm glad that I did. Long story short, after about 800 miles (a few months), my truck started running like crap intermittently...unfortunately I was 400 miles from home at Relic Run when it started. Tried to diagnose, but with both rich and lean codes from OBD1, not much to go off of. I did get it home, but it was a loooong ride home and had a buddy shadow me for the first 300 miles...last 100 it was basically misfiring the whole way. After a a few weeks of diagnostics, I finally went to basically just yanking on wire harnesses...every one that I could find while it was running....turns out that it was the bypass diode thingy in the plug that failed. Removed the kit and it ran like a champ again.
All of that said, I'm thinking of getting another one and putting it back in...I hate those hot EGR gasses burning up the rear 5-6 cylinder head gasket area.
My truck ran poorly after install as well but only briefly.I wanted to give an update on this...I decided that I really wanted to do the EGR bypass, so I ordered a second kit. As soon as I installed it, my truck started to run poorly. I then uninstalled it, and the same thing. Long story short, I'm 99% sure that I have a harness issue near the EGR pipe (common issue on the 93-94's)...the intake is coming off tomorrow and I have a spare harness just in case mine is toast. I think that the tugging on the EGR temp sensor wire this time when installing the test plug again caused the issue to pop up that initially started on a wheeling trip last spring (suspecting the engine movement a bit when crawling/climbing). I'll update with the results, but wanted to say that I don't feel that the EGR delete test kit is to blame...thanks @LC4LIFE for a great product offering!
First time that I installed, I ran it for about 4-5 months and it made a 400 mile trip and half of a wheeling weekend before it started acting up. After a couple of weeks of diagnostics, I found my issue at the EGR temp sensor plug and re-set back to OEM specs (assuming a faulty bypass plug)...all was good in the world again. Now 10 months later, I wanted to re-install, so I ordered a new kit to start from scratch...ran like poo immediately after install like it did when the first version "failed), and then still after converting back.My truck ran poorly after install as well but only briefly.
How long did you run it after HUDD install?
Good luck dude!First time that I installed, I ran it for about 4-5 months and it made a 400 mile trip and half of a wheeling weekend before it started acting up. After a couple of weeks of diagnostics, I found my issue at the EGR temp sensor plug and re-set back to OEM specs (assuming a faulty bypass plug)...all was good in the world again. Now 10 months later, I wanted to re-install, so I ordered a new kit to start from scratch...ran like poo immediately after install like it did when the first version "failed), and then still after converting back.
I know what you are describing, it's the re-learning when you pull the EFI fuse out where it runs poorly for the first 10-15 miles, but that's usually just a rougher/low idle (but not missfiring that I have) and sluggish performance for a bit until it re-learns the running habits.
I'm pulling the intake off today and hoping that I'll find a wire in the harness that has issues near the EGR pipe...I'm guessing that when I was tugging on the wire to install the bypass plug again, that I upset the harness enough that it started with the same issues again. Mine has been insulated by the P.O., but that doesn't make it immune to the heat that it took beforehand. I'll post up with results! That said, I'm pulling the injectors for a good cleaning and re-doing all of the vacuum lines & fuel filter while I'm in there.
Not to suggest that you have the same issue, but when I went to get my injectors refurbished, I found a bunch of burned wires that needed to be replaced. This is just to suggest that you should probably do a close visual inspection of all of the wires in that area.First time that I installed, I ran it for about 4-5 months and it made a 400 mile trip and half of a wheeling weekend before it started acting up. After a couple of weeks of diagnostics, I found my issue at the EGR temp sensor plug and re-set back to OEM specs (assuming a faulty bypass plug)...all was good in the world again. Now 10 months later, I wanted to re-install, so I ordered a new kit to start from scratch...ran like poo immediately after install like it did when the first version "failed), and then still after converting back.
I know what you are describing, it's the re-learning when you pull the EFI fuse out where it runs poorly for the first 10-15 miles, but that's usually just a rougher/low idle (but not missfiring that I have) and sluggish performance for a bit until it re-learns the running habits.
I'm pulling the intake off today and hoping that I'll find a wire in the harness that has issues near the EGR pipe...I'm guessing that when I was tugging on the wire to install the bypass plug again, that I upset the harness enough that it started with the same issues again. Mine has been insulated by the P.O., but that doesn't make it immune to the heat that it took beforehand. I'll post up with results! That said, I'm pulling the injectors for a good cleaning and re-doing all of the vacuum lines & fuel filter while I'm in there.
Did you ever confirm that the first time you install this plug that it was the plug that actually failed after 10-months of use? Anyone else see this?First time that I installed, I ran it for about 4-5 months and it made a 400 mile trip and half of a wheeling weekend before it started acting up. After a couple of weeks of diagnostics, I found my issue at the EGR temp sensor plug and re-set back to OEM specs (assuming a faulty bypass plug)...all was good in the world again. Now 10 months later, I wanted to re-install, so I ordered a new kit to start from scratch...ran like poo immediately after install like it did when the first version "failed), and then still after converting back.
I know what you are describing, it's the re-learning when you pull the EFI fuse out where it runs poorly for the first 10-15 miles, but that's usually just a rougher/low idle (but not missfiring that I have) and sluggish performance for a bit until it re-learns the running habits.
I'm pulling the intake off today and hoping that I'll find a wire in the harness that has issues near the EGR pipe...I'm guessing that when I was tugging on the wire to install the bypass plug again, that I upset the harness enough that it started with the same issues again. Mine has been insulated by the P.O., but that doesn't make it immune to the heat that it took beforehand. I'll post up with results! That said, I'm pulling the injectors for a good cleaning and re-doing all of the vacuum lines & fuel filter while I'm in there.