Yes Sir, for your vehicle you'll want 1 & 2.
EGR delete. I know, I know… (2 Viewers)
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Yes Sir, for your vehicle you'll want 1 & 2.
Thank you, i have been in the market for nice keychains =]
- Thread starter
- #23
I second this. This is technically all you need to get to disable it. If you want to declutter your engine bay, buy keychains in addition.
Wits' End
Wits' End, Land Cruiser, 80 Series, LX450, 100 Series, Fire Extinguisher Mountabsolute-wits-end.com
1) Pull the EGR at the manifold and the head. Pull the EGR regulator.
2) Use the gaskets as patterns, trace around them with a sharpie on some 1/8" steel, I used steel for hot side and Aluminum for cold side.
Drill out the holes, cut the rest with a hacksaw. File off the burs.
3) Install the new block off plates with original gaskets and high-temp Permatex gasket maker.
4)Leave the temp sensor in the manifold, it's now a plug. Cut the temp sensor wire in a convenient location. Solder a 5K ohm resistor between the wires on the plug side. Back fill wire jacket with blue RTV to seal the resistor.
5) reroute and or plug EGR vacuum lines. See image above, red silicone line with BHCS installed
Step six... You're gonna need it. Might need a step six after steps one and three in all honesty.
Here endith the lesson.
I’ll be you’re huckleberry.
1995-1997 FZJ80 EGR Temp Sensor Test Plug Kit
EGR, EGR delete, 97 Land Cruiser EGR, Land Cruiser P0401, P0402huddexpo.com
Thank y’all for all of this info. Will begin purchases soon.I second this. This is technically all you need to get to disable it. If you want to declutter your engine bay, buy keychains in addition.
Wits' End
Wits' End, Land Cruiser, 80 Series, LX450, 100 Series, Fire Extinguisher Mount
Will the sensor show readiness with OBD check?
There is a factor oem part that plugs into the harness. I dont know where I got it. One of the local cruiser l parts guys knew what it was. Just a little oem cap with a built in resistor to avoid codes. Kind of cool. You use it instead of wiring in a resistor.
It was when Sam was working at Toyota South. He had some cool part numbers up his sleeve. He also had oem toyota Tocoma brake lines that bolted right up but were longer in all the right sports, extended oem quality brake lines that dont bind when lifted during articulation.
I could not get the rear plate installed right without a lot of work. It was super easy to do when the head was out being rebuilt. But I think it is hard to reach normaly with everything installed.
It was when Sam was working at Toyota South. He had some cool part numbers up his sleeve. He also had oem toyota Tocoma brake lines that bolted right up but were longer in all the right sports, extended oem quality brake lines that dont bind when lifted during articulation.
I could not get the rear plate installed right without a lot of work. It was super easy to do when the head was out being rebuilt. But I think it is hard to reach normaly with everything installed.
I'll chime in with another positive review for Hudd Expo.
Sorry to stray from the original intent of this post for an OBD2 truck, but I have have several questions pertaining to OBD1s. This seems like the best and most up to date thread going on the topic right now.
Does anyone have pictures of location and installation of block off keychains on a 93-94 OBD1? My impression is that since I have already removed the PAIR, there is only one port for the EGR that can be blocked off with a Model 01 Keychain.
How many vacuum caps are necessary for the job?
My CEL is currently on (Code 71). Will it go out after the EGR is out and vacuum lines are capped, or will I need to disconnect the battery as well? Looks like no resistor or other electrical modification is necessary for an OBD 1, correct?
Lastly, and this is a generic question to the job, how prone are the EGR bolts to rust? When I pulled the PAIR off the manifold, I broke a stud and when I was finally able to extract it, it was rusted down to the very last thread! Just want to know what I am in for. (Anyone know the part number or size of bolt/stud in advance in case I break one???)
Thank you all.
Does anyone have pictures of location and installation of block off keychains on a 93-94 OBD1? My impression is that since I have already removed the PAIR, there is only one port for the EGR that can be blocked off with a Model 01 Keychain.
How many vacuum caps are necessary for the job?
My CEL is currently on (Code 71). Will it go out after the EGR is out and vacuum lines are capped, or will I need to disconnect the battery as well? Looks like no resistor or other electrical modification is necessary for an OBD 1, correct?
Lastly, and this is a generic question to the job, how prone are the EGR bolts to rust? When I pulled the PAIR off the manifold, I broke a stud and when I was finally able to extract it, it was rusted down to the very last thread! Just want to know what I am in for. (Anyone know the part number or size of bolt/stud in advance in case I break one???)
Thank you all.
1) Pull the EGR at the manifold and the head. Pull the EGR regulator.
2) Use the gaskets as patterns, trace around them with a sharpie on some 1/8" steel, I used steel for hot side and Aluminum for cold side.
Drill out the holes, cut the rest with a hacksaw. File off the burs.
3) Install the new block off plates with original gaskets and high-temp Permatex gasket maker.
4)Leave the temp sensor in the manifold, it's now a plug. Cut the temp sensor wire in a convenient location. Solder a 5K ohm resistor between the wires on the plug side. Back fill wire jacket with blue RTV to seal the resistor.
5) reroute and or plug EGR vacuum lines. See image above, red silicone line with BHCS installed
Step six... You're gonna need it. Might need a step six after steps one and three in all honesty.
Here endith the lesson.
Great write up! On step one, when you say "EGR Regulator" are you talking about the EGR Vacuum Modulator from this diagram below, or is it something else?
Also, could one also remove the PAIR and EGR VSVs depicted in this diagram or are those too hard to get to/ attached to other critical elements?
Lastly, I wanted to confirm, I can skip step 4 on a '94 engine?
Thanks!
Yes, EGR Modulator.
I don't know how the PAIR system works. It will require someone more versed on the older engines to answer this.
LC4LIFE
Supporting Vendor
You do not need to disconnect anything and yes to both questions. For testing purposes only though.
pm sent!I’ll be you’re huckleberry.
1995-1997 FZJ80 EGR Temp Sensor Test Plug Kit
EGR, EGR delete, 97 Land Cruiser EGR, Land Cruiser P0401, P0402
So, let's say theoretically someone has the resistor plug in place and the egr code does not/ wont show anymore. Regardless of wether or not the egr system is still physically there, would that vehicle be able to pass a smog test? I know some inspectors might actually try to see physically but would the test be able to detect that I "deleted" my egr?
Hornd
SILVER Star
+1 Running the Hudd without Chk Engine Light (Headache Light).
Need to Add the Block Off Plates.
From my Observations the Head Gaskets Typically Fail on #6 Cylinder where the EGR Dumps...
LC4LIFE
Supporting Vendor
It all depends on the jurisdiction you are in. I know of dozens of rigs that have passed with my kit installed at the time of testing. It really comes down to what your jurisdiction requires for readiness and how your rig tests. NOX being high is usually the result of disabling EGR. Our trucks when running well, and tuned up rarely have an issue getting the numbers to pass emissions testing.
preeshiate it
BHCS?1) Pull the EGR at the manifold and the head. Pull the EGR regulator.
2) Use the gaskets as patterns, trace around them with a sharpie on some 1/8" steel, I used steel for hot side and Aluminum for cold side.
Drill out the holes, cut the rest with a hacksaw. File off the burs.
3) Install the new block off plates with original gaskets and high-temp Permatex gasket maker.
4)Leave the temp sensor in the manifold, it's now a plug. Cut the temp sensor wire in a convenient location. Solder a 5K ohm resistor between the wires on the plug side. Back fill wire jacket with blue RTV to seal the resistor.
5) reroute and or plug EGR vacuum lines. See image above, red silicone line with BHCS installed
Step six... You're gonna need it. Might need a step six after steps one and three in all honesty.
Here endith the lesson.
Hey gents, chasing a p0401 and p0420. Putting in a new magnaflow y pipe to chase the 0420. For the 0401, I've been flirting with deleting the EGR. Questions regarding that.
1. Is the Huddexpo plug mod all that is needed to disable the EGR and not throw codes? This leaves the system in place, and doesn't require any block off plates, caps?
2. Fully removing the EGR and adding the block off plates seems like a pretty good ordeal. Found a video where the guy ended up disassembling the plenum to access the rear portion of the EGR. (Motor still in the truck) Tips and tricks on that? Seems like a good time to clean/inspect the plenum and throttle body.
I'm still in the process of baselining my 96, so I'm beginning to lean towards pulling it all apart to check its condition.
3. If I go with the full EGR removal, need plates, plugs and the Huddexpo mod as well. Missing anything?
Thank you!
LC4LIFE
Supporting Vendor
1. yes
2. you only need to do this if you want all that stuff out of there, and you will need a swazall for the EGR pipe at the back of the head.
3. you will need gaskets for the plates.
wrap the harness while your up in there too.
