EDIC Controller build from scratch

[togril]

Hmm, Solid State.
What do you think the current (Amperage) should be?

I will be etching a new circuit bard soon, and I could go with trying those.
I have repaired the tracks on my old one - but have all the components sitting there waiting for a build...have been rather busy of late.

 

[freebornyota]

Amazing Bandit_guy! You have brought new hope to my relay woes. My edic relay just toasted out on me finally 2 weeks ago. After the nightmarish realization that a 24v pre-1980 relay was nearly impossible to come by, I found your thread.
Using Rockcrawler's awesome 12v relay write up, is there any way you could indicate what might be different in the 24v.

I would like to try and build my own, but I'm totally in the dark as to what I need to do so.

 

[Bandit_guy]

I don't know how good your French is but this is where the inspiration came to build my later modle relay.

http://www.serie4.fr/mecaniques/pdf/20101220091552.pdf

I didn't look too closely but I think aside of the from the coils the capacitors transistors and resistors should be the same.

What I did was use the old relay to map out the wiring diagram then figure out how to mount all the parts. If your old relay board is still in decent shape you could just mount new parts to the old board for an easier fix. The capacitors (the things that look like batteries), the coils or corroded parts of the board are the usual suspects.

Good luck with your build, I hope this helps

 

[No. 3]

This is great, another subscriber who may someday see if you are still willing to make an HJ60 version. Knock on wood mine is still okay.... Best,
Jeff

 

[Gengis]

The relays all look like SPDT ( single pole double throw) . I dont think you would replicate this in solid state. Not without a lot of redesign.
Hardly worth it. Spend the R&D time on waterproofing and heat management.

G

 

[freebornyota]

That clears a lot up for me Bandit. One of my relay coils is toast and the other one is not looking too great either. I'm going to try just replacing the coils and hoping the rest of my FCR is all good. My EDIC thanks you. Cheers!

 

[togril]

Excellent.
I've been keeping my subscription on this thread - STILL been to busy, but all my parts have arrived for the HJ (currently off the road at present).

I have 2 weeks coming up to dedicate to the God Mechanical.
One of the jobs is this EDIC rebuild. On a "new" (home etched) circuit board. The only thing I was unsure about was the relays.
I think I will have to make them "off the board".

What is recommended as a substitute - I got some 35amp horn relays, Single Pole Double Throw I believe, but didn't check the resistance. Any thoughts?

This is what I got: (mine is the 12volts system)
12v SDPT:
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=SY4046

Tog

 

[Bandit_guy]

Those relays are going to work fine. The 30 amp is the max current it can safely handle. You won't reach these limits. The one's I used are the sames as the one in post # 6 with the plastic shell removed and the leads cut up.

 

[togril]

Brilliant - I didn't think about taking out of the holder - and was wondering where you all got the exposed relays from.
Thanks.

 

[togril]

original main relay to stnadard new 5 pin

ok - to resurrect an old thread:

I have got the other 2 relays replaced and working (IG / ST).
Can anyone give me the pin out in "30, 85, 86, 87, 87a" for the main relay?
I just can't work it out from Bandit _Guys circuit diagram (previous page) .

I have new components on the board, but seriously can not get this last one.
Here is an image of the main relay from the top:

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Thanks in advance.
Tog

 

[Bandit_guy]

I'm not excatly sure what you are asking but this is how they main relay is set up.

 

[togril]

Brilliant. That's exactly what I was asking.
Thanks. Reused my original board and replaced the components. But kept getting this last relay wrong.
It feels good to have a wprking edic in a new box.
Thanks for your help.

 

[RedHeadedStepChild]

I'm resurrecting an old thread because...well, this thread is awesome.

But really, I'll be looking to build a new controller in the near future, and I'm wondering if anyone has any good solutions for waterproofing this setup and setting it up to handle the clanging and banging that comes with off-road driving.

 

[Bandit_guy]

I found a plastic box at the electronic shop with a cover that screws down with a rubber gasket to make the seal. Silicone and a grommet for the wires and mounted it to the side wall of the glove box. It's dry now and been working for the last two years without problems. It's original spot on the side panel is always getting wet and dirty. With enough wire you could put it anywhere that's going to stay clean. I'm very far away from home right now and I don't have a picture.

 

[hj 60]

My HJ sometimes stops after 5 seconds because it has low oil pressure when the engine is cold (worn engine or wrong sensor)
Idle is lower with cold engine (450 to 500 maybe) and warm engine is 650, rpm=pressure so i have to find out why cold idle is lower

The dash shows rising oil pressure but just a second to slow for the edic controller.
A bit more throttle solves the shut down but with cold engine I dont want to rev to much.

The cold engine shut down can be brutally fixed with an oil pressure switch with lower pressure (original seems to be 0.3 bar)
If there is a switch that would also switch off when the oil pressure is to high that would be nice to install and prevent a blown oil filter when the relief valve gets stuck, I dont think such a double switch exists.

The oil pressure switch opens when pressure is above specified bar, and closes (to ground?)
I dont know what the working oil pressure is supposed to be, but for the edic it seems to be above 0.3 bar, measured at idle 650 rpm.

Part Beru 0824331028 switches at 0,25-0,35 bar
Part NIPPARTS J5612008 switches at 0.4 bar
Part Herth buss J5612008 switches at 0.5 bar

But maybe you know how to adjust the 5 seconds delay to 6 seconds?
Did you find anything about how to check/adjust that time by a mechanic and what it should be exactly?

or does the FSM simply advised to replace the controller?
Thanks

 

[rustybucket]

Just my thoughts on the simplicity of the 3b. While I did suggest using solid state relays, It is important to note, that some day, some year, earth could be hit with a major X class solar flare. One on the scale and power of the Carrington Even DID pass by earth in 2012. Hardening these old land cruisers would be a very good idea. Any wire that is not shielded would cook any electronics, relays and so on. I think the bj60 has some form of sheet metal surrounding the minimal electronics. Any case point, it is something to think about. BTW do YOU have emergency food, water, fuel and supplies to survive long extended period of time? The solar storm of 2012 that almost sent us back to a post-apocalyptic Stone Age | ExtremeTech

 

[HDS]

Solid state eh ? I might try this on version 2.

Has this gone any further? I'd be happy to draw and post a PCB with a digikey parts list if anyone is interested.

 

[Diesel42]

Has this gone any further? I'd be happy to draw and post a PCB with a digikey parts list if anyone is interested.

I don't need one but that is a fine offer HDS. Great to see modern replacements for discontinued parts. Great community

 

[HDS]

I finished a PCB and ordered 10 boards with enough parts to populate them. I will try it out and report how it goes! Thanks for your feedback!

 

[Bandit_guy]

Pretty cool that this thread found new light. I never have had any issue with the controller since I built it and never went further. I'm interested to see what you make.