EDIC Cold Start Fail

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Joined
Oct 12, 2015
Threads
3
Messages
12
Location
Salt Lake City, UT, United States
1986 HJ60 2H.

She turns over and starts in the cold (15-20F), although rough, but starts first time. I replaced my superglow system last year but this winter she's been having an issue which seems related to the EDIC.

After starting, she'll idle for a few seconds, then there's a couple clicks on the passenger side where her relays are, and instantly dies, no matter how much fuel I try and give it. This happens over and over until she finally warms up. Then no problem.

Things I've noticed:
1. It's clockwork. I hear the clicks and then she dies. As she gets warmer, I can sometimes catch her by hitting the gas and keep her from shutting down.
2. If I hold her above 2k rpm (which feels so brutal when she's still cold) I can usually keep her idling and that's because her batteries are holding a charge around 24-26v. When I let go of the gas, the charge drops to about 20v and that's when the relay clicks and it shuts down.
3. When she's warm, her batteries will hold that 24v+ charge and then the problem seems to stop.

What I'm wondering is - if the relay doesn't get enough voltage, will it shut down? Is it a bad ground? Or perhaps the entire relay itself is just going bad? This is only happening when temps are below 35F.

Curious on thoughts, thanks!
 
Post what you find after checking the position of the EDIC arm before & after it dies. Sounds like a bad ground/connection to me.
 
Definitely could be a bad connection. oil pressure would likely happen warm rather than cold but your oil filter could be draining back. Also A bad oil pressure switch/connection or failing ignition switch.
20v seems normal when the glow plugs are still on and that shouldn’t be to low to cause the relay to drop out.

This from.
Some info saved
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Yellow back wire goes from the edic to the oil pressure switch (not sender) I would start there. with out this wire the edic will shut the motor down to protect it from starving for oil.
 
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Definitely could be a bad connection or low oil pressure, bad oil pressure switch/connection or failing ignition switch.

This from.
Some info saved
View attachment 1598481

Yellow back wire goes from the edic to the oil pressure switch (not sender) I would start there. with out this wire the edic will shut the motor down to protect it from starving for oil.

That was my other thought - something as basic as bad oil. The battery charge could just be a coincidence and it's actually the oil pressure that's causing the on and off?
 
Yes unfortunately keeping the idle up will increase the alternator output and will help overcome a bad connection. Also will bring you oil pressure up quicker if your filter has drained back.

Some checks to do.

What is your oil pressure gauge saying?
Does your oil filter point up at the sky or down at the ground? If up, try before first start cold in the morning spin the oil filter partially off and see if it pukes oil everywhere.

Your first start does your starter run slow and seem like it’s having difficulty turning the motor over? If so redo the battery connections and motor/frame grounds.
 
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Thanks for all the help everyone, I'm still very much learning :)

So I think it's definitely something with the oil pressure/sensor. When I start her, the oil pressure gauge is reading almost 0. The entire time it reads zero is when the click click happens and the engine dies. Then it jumped up to it's normal level and that's when the engine is able to idle without cutting out. I checked the oil and it's low plus she has 15w40 in her right now which I'm sure isn't helping in 10-20F outside temps. I'm going to give her a change and fill her up with 5w40 and see if that makes the difference. If not, then is it safe to say the oil pressure sensor is going bad?
 
Yeah change the oil and filter. I have heard some guys run 10w30 when it’s frozen out but don’t know enough to recommend doing that. I run 15w40 here all year but it only freezes here for a couple week a year.
 
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Post your findings because my bj60 does the exact same thing. Not all the time though. Im pretty sure the fuel control relay is shutting the engine off due to low oil pressure. There must be a 3-5 second timer that shuts the engine down due to no oil pressure. My truck starts reading oil pressure at about that same 3-5 seconds. Thats why sometimes it shuts down and sometime it doesn't.
 
On the 3b the oil filter houseing can be switched out for one that orientates the oil filter down so the oil dosent drain back. Also moves the filter further away from your turbo! That way you don’t have to fill the oil filter with oil on a cold start before you get pressure.
 
If you park nose downhill the pressure will be fine to start.
When you start the engine after 5 seconds the oil pressure switch can make the EDIC move and stop your engine if there is not enough oil pressure (below 0,3 Bar)

I have replaced the oil pressure relieve valve and now using a lower pressure cut out switch.

The sensor makes contact to ground when oil pressure is to low.
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I have more info here, to much to copy - EDIC manual, oil pressure switch, relief valve - hj60.freeforums.org

The oil pressure sensor cut open:
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The cold weather might be using more amps to start, so you are seeing more issues with the electrical on start up more in the cold.
My first go to item it taking the battery connection off and cleaning them extremely well. do not use a dielectric grease on them. it makes ot hard to flow and creates ressstance. The grease can be put on after the connection is made as a cover. not inside.
Try the battery connection first as a rule. It honestly might not seem like a source of thr issues but it very well could be.
 
If you dont own a battery post and clamp cleaning tool, I would invest in one. use it yearly.
 
If you dont own a battery post and clamp cleaning tool, I would invest in one. use it yearly.

Dielectric grease on the battery terminals is a good idea too.
 
I dont like dielecltric on connections of any kind. It creates resistance. Its an insulating compound. it can go over the finished connection but should never be on it. It should be clean and bare. Putting it over seals the connection.
Dielectric grease on the battery terminals is a good idea too.
 

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