EDIC acting up, tried everything, 2 days time left (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Apr 26, 2005
Threads
2
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78
Location
Finland
EDIC relay is rattling and rapping. Problem comes and goes.

Month ago EDIC was on constantly, the chicken thing. Fixed bad connectors between EDIC motor and relay, problem was fixed.

I've used search, and tried everything I can think of.

All grounds have been gone through. Also aal related connections, I think.

Switched EDIC relay, EDIC motor and ignition relay from working parts vehicle, no help.

And I have 2 days left for annual inspection of vehicle.

Help me, please.
 
Run a wire from the edic body(under the mount). And all the way up to the negative post on one battery. Give it a good ground. See of that helps.

During my fix up on my BJ60 I was having edic goofinees caused by bad battery posts. They were dirty and not tight. I also replaced the battery ground cables with bigger ones. Now the edic makes no extra noise.
 
Take your EDIC relay box apart and have a close look at the circuit board and related connections. I have found broken connections and corrosion on the PCB before.

Also, check your EDIC motor grounds, the fusible links at the battery etc....
 
I took my edic entirely off and . then i drilled a small hole in the firewall and a small hole in the dash. i fed a stiff steel wire/ bar through the dash through the firewall and welded the wire to the end of the ball joint at the injection pump. i can push and pull the injection lever from inside the cab just like an old diesel tractor. later i put rubber grommets around the bar/ wire to keep it from rattling. now i never worry about anything! when i shut it off its me pulling the actuall rack, and not that silly edic mess. my fix took less than an hour and it wont ever break. just make sure the rod is free and puts no stress on the pump arm. good lucK! this mod does take some goofing around but its worth it.
 
Yeah, I know, but I don't want to go that route. If I start it up by a key, I want to stop it by that key too.
 
Yeah, I know, but I don't want to go that route. If I start it up by a key, I want to stop it by that key too.

Then install a start button :D

Turn key for ignition on, press button for start, pull handle for stop - no one would know how to steal it!
 
Then install a start button :D

Turn key for ignition on, press button for start, pull handle for stop - no one would know how to steal it!
And neither will the valet, airporter, etc.....

I like it working properly with a key too.
 
Don't forget to check if the ground of the engine to the chassis/frame is good. My HJ60 had the 'funky edic problem' for lack of a good ground from engine to frame.
j
 
Always after some deep river crossing ( aka water inside Tencha ) my EDIC start with the same sh**t .. so I take apart .. dry it well and aply some contact cleaner. Clean it well and after ( alow dry ) aply some marine fluid .. it take and care it pretty well until the next river cross.
 
Problem might be solved, took the wire harness ground off from the body behind the glove box and run a jumper cable from there to intake manifold next to the EDIC. Not a single tick anymore driving around my driveway.

Might be, because it has come and gone for a few days before, so I'm going to put an extra ground wire between those two points and give it a test.

And, I remembered wrong, the annual inspection is due february 16, not january.
 
Sorry for being an idiot but what is an EDIC??

Stands for "electronic diesel injection control" and it's a relay box combined with a motor that turns the injection pump on and off.... it does a few other things too, but that's the basics of it.
 
It turns fuel injection to overinjection position for starting, normal position for running and shuts fuel off when you turn the key to stop engine. It also shuts fuel, if you lose oil pressure, handy when tilting your vehicle, designed for preventing engine from starting to run reverse.
 
It also shuts fuel, if you lose oil pressure, handy when tilting your vehicle, designed for preventing engine from starting to run reverse.

Though the engine will run in reverse for a short while... which is quite interesting when it does happen! :popcorn: :steer:
 
Yes, there is a delay for oil pressure to build up when starting cold. One guy reversed his bj40 once, said it was interesting when snorkel turned to chimney.
 
Hey does anyone on here happen to have any functional relays kicking around they may be interested in parting with?
 
Hey does anyone on here happen to have any functional relays kicking around they may be interested in parting with?

Hi,

Post a photo of it so I know which one as I have a box full of these relays up at the beach house. I am there this weekend, converted my FJ40 into HJ40 (2H Diesel). They are a common part here in Australia.

Robert
 
OK, the extra ground wire I put on yesterday was OK for yesterday, today going to work, click clack and stall. :censor: deattach EDIC relay and disengage EDIC arm, go to work.

On my lunch break I opened the original EDIC motor (I had every related part, tool and manual with me), there was some grease on the sliding surfaces, cleaned, reassembled and back to work.

After work, when reversing out of company's garage, EDIC shut engine off. clickety clack. :censor:

Tonight I was measuring voltages and grounds from open EDIC relay, there seemed to be something wrong with the oil pressure switch. I wondered, "this was one of the first things to check" and took wire off from the oil pressure switch. Still some voltage flashes on the multimeter screen when relay rattles, I shut down engine and measured 25 ohms resistance from oil press wire to body ground when the wire wasn't attached to the switch.

So the problem was a grounding wire grounded.:mad::crybaby:
 
And this whole thing was my own fault. When I installed Webasto heater 3 years ago, I had routed the Webasto exhaust too close to the harness under the heater, between inner fender, firewall, frame and heater. It was a place where you cannot see from engine bay or under the vehicle. heat from the exhaust had melted three wires.
 
And this whole thing was my own fault. When I installed Webasto heater 3 years ago, I had routed the Webasto exhaust too close to the harness under the heater, between inner fender, firewall, frame and heater. It was a place where you cannot see from engine bay or under the vehicle. heat from the exhaust had melted three wires.

Hey - You fixed it and learnt a lot in the process so it was all worthwhile.

It's much better that you did the work yourself (rather than leaving it to an autoelectrician). Now you're much better prepared to tackle the next electrical fault that rears its ugly head!

:cheers:
 

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