EDIC acting up, tried everything, 2 days time left

[beejay42]

Reading this thread-
I don't think my 82' BJ42 3B has an EDIC?
I have to turn it off by pulling a thing on the dash- sort of like a choke- that connects to something on top of the injection pump- turning the key off- taking the key out of the ignition- does nothing...
didn't know what was happening the first time I got it started and had to stall it

 

[amaurer]

Reading this thread-
I don't think my 82' BJ42 3B has an EDIC?
I have to turn it off by pulling a thing on the dash- sort of like a choke- that connects to something on top of the injection pump- turning the key off- taking the key out of the ignition- does nothing...
didn't know what was happening the first time I got it started and had to stall it

Can you post a pic of your IP, the "thing on the dash" and the cable to the IP?

 

[beejay42]

Yeah sure- next round of photos-
its dark and cold now- I'm off to bed.

heres one I already have of the dash-
its a pull out and turn to release dial/knob- but the turning doesn't do anything (anymore?).
It just pulls out kills the engine and slowly (sticky cable) pulls itself back in (there is a spring somewhere in the mechanism on the IP) regardless of 'turning' or not.

 

[beejay42]

actually- heres another I have (EDITED)
of the cable- but can't see the actual mechanism-
it is below the air intake.

 

[beejay42]

really- I am going to bed- just after I go out at 2am in the cold and take some flash photos with my mobile and upload them
here it is

gnight.

 

[Tapage]

Nice manual EDIC setup ..

 

[amaurer]

thanks, very interesting!

 

[lostmarbles]

Nice manual EDIC setup ..

Hmmm. Ya reckon?

I like the look of the dash control but I think the rest of it looks pretty roughly installed.

Here's a picture of how an EDIC would control your injector pump Hans:



It pulls the lever right back into the "overinjection" position for starting (extra fuel) and then puts it in the "run" position for normal running.

When it's time to stop the engine it pushes the lever right forward.

And the mechansim has inbuilt springs in the operating arm to prevent excessive force being applied to the injector pump lever by the EDIC motor.

So, sorry to say, I reckon any manual system will fall way short of what a fully-functioning EDIC set-up achieves (in my opinion).



PS. But we all want different things in a vehicle. And you can get this vehicle to whatever standard you want. You're certainly in the right country to do that too. I believe sourcing parts for our vehicles is easier in Oz than ANYWHERE else in the world!
(Doing away with a "complicated" EDIC system and replacing it with a simple cable suits some people as you can see. It may suit you too for all I know? And I respect such "differences of opinion".)

 

[freebie]

Hi beejay
If your manual stop cable does not stay on the off position you should fix that!
If the motor is hot and the truck moves in gear enough to spin the motor it will start. In my opinon this is the main advantage of the edic relay, when I pull out my shutoff cable I make sure it stays out.

Cheers
Rob

 

[beejay42]

Thanks for all the info guys-

I wonder what else has been removed from my truck

Ideally I would like an EDIC- Turning off at the key is just the way I would like it- plus any other benefits it might have for starting etc.
Would it be hard to put one back on? Just a bolt on and connect the dots? or something requiring a little more mechanical/electrical finesse?

One concern with the current set up (aside from what Freebie just mentioned- which I will get on top of in the mean time) is- in what position is my injection pump normally in?
Do I even have a starting position anymore?
The way the cable is set up- the mechanism on the IP already goes back as far as it can (as you can see- slack in the cable)- you cannot push the the mechanism any further in the direction to where the EDIC would put it in 'overinjection'. Am I always running in over-injection? (it would appear not- as to pull the kill switch at all begins to choke off the engine instantly). Has this injection control been altered so that overinjection cannot be reached?
Would this lack of overinjection help explain my difficulty starting? (the re-soldered starter motor was turning the engine over, a little lazily, but not too badly- but it was very hard to get it to fire).

Cheers fellas.
One more part to the growing list of things to get.

 

[lostmarbles]

........Would it be hard to put one back on? Just a bolt on and connect the dots? or something requiring a little more mechanical/electrical finesse?.......

You'd need the EDIC, the EDIC relay, the connecting rod (between EDIC and injector pump) and a new injector pump "operating lever mechanism" (unless the old one can be salvaged) Hans. And then you'd need to re-install whatever connecting wiring the PO has removed.

I'm sure it wouldn't be straight forward (such jobs seldom are) but "where there's a Will there's a Way" as they say.

...One concern with the current set up (aside from what Freebie just mentioned- which I will get on top of in the mean time) is- in what position is my injection pump normally in?
Do I even have a starting position anymore?
The way the cable is set up- the mechanism on the IP already goes back as far as it can (as you can see- slack in the cable)- you cannot push the the mechanism any further in the direction to where the EDIC would put it in 'overinjection'. Am I always running in over-injection? (it would appear not- as to pull the kill switch at all begins to choke off the engine instantly). Has this injection control been altered so that overinjection cannot be reached?.....

I think your last sentence is probably correct. It looks like the "operating lever mechanism" may have been modified/butchered to prevent it going to "overinjection".

....Would this lack of overinjection help explain my difficulty starting? (the re-soldered starter motor was turning the engine over, a little lazily, but not too badly- but it was very hard to get it to fire). .....

Well I've read claims that our diesels will start OK in the run position - so who knows. But I doubt whether Toyota would have bothered with an "overinjection" position if it didn't aid with starting.

 

[beejay42]

Thanks Lostmarbles... I think
described pretty much as I suspected.
A bit of a headache. The mechanical aspect I would feel ok about (so long as the alterations to this mechanism do not go too deep), but Wiring/electrics/relays... are not my friend- especially with the wiring in this truck.
I might have to have a chat to my auto elec contact and see what he thinks.... maybe after he does my starter
(at least then I will know if it is going to start easier)
Fingers crossed I can get a road worthy cert with it in its current set up- and then look at doing this at a later date.
I've gotta get this thing on the road- and I don't have too much time to invest right now doing it.

 

[JoeCanadian]

this is a plan

Then install a start button

Turn key for ignition on, press button for start, pull handle for stop - no one would know how to steal it!

oh yeah, between the pull switch and button for the glowplugs and the fuel pump controle arm through the dash with an old red vidio game button to start the rig. now thats cool, and it is like a combination lock or a vidio game for the owner of the rig. hell a guy could even hook up the running light to the seatbelt warning switch so you would need to put the belt on to use the lights. FUN FUN FUN.
good luck

 

[freebie]

My 3B starts fine in the run position and has for over a year. It was fine in the winter and in the warm weather. If your 3B is tough to start its more likely the glow plugs are not working properly.
I just replaced mt tired old 3B with one in much better condition and it seems to start fine in the run position? so far, its only been started 3 or 4 times.
I agree there is a reason the over inject position is part of the system, I just have not had any problems starting mine ever.

Cheers

 

[lostmarbles]

Here's a couple of photos that may be of use when the time comes to refit the EDIC Hans. I'm always downloading and saving photos from MUD (in preparation for future work).

The photos apply to my B engine but I doubt your 3B would be much different.

Here's where they put the EDIC relay:



And here is a photo of the EDIC motor connected to the injector pump:

 

[beejay42]

Thanks for the photos Lostmarbles- I've looked around to try to find the EDIC relay- but it seems that has been removed too. Freebie- the PO has apparently just replaced all the glowplugs... Hopefully my difficulties have been from a slugging starter motor.

 

[FinHJ60]

Haven't been here for a while, sory about that.

If you find motor and relay, it isn't very hard to wire them up, I can get some photos and instuctions for you.

EDIT: Here a few 2H's haven't worked well running aftermarket glow plugs, original NipponDenso (ND) can be found from some parts stores.