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No need to match bulb resistance. You're trying to find s short somewhere, not a current blip that just barely exceeds 20-25 amps to blow the fuse. If you want to keep those bulb circuits complete for testing, use something huge like 10 megaohm.1 microamp or so of current draw won't affect your battery. That's how I'd tackle it if I decided that route.I have a theory I want to bounce around in this thread and see if it makes sense.
The two connections I talked about (pictured above) that are always live kinda make sense, now that I think about it. Those are tiny lights that are just always on. And if you open the cigarette lighter and it's dark you see the light otherwise no one notices. Keeping it always on just makes it simpler and for such a small thing over engineering doesn't make any sense.
So my theory is that I should try adding resistors in place of the blown lights and that should get all the circuitry to normal load. The only issue being my bulbs are blown and there is no reading on them about their wattage or resistance.
Question one, does this make any sense or am I getting a little too in my head with this?
Question two, can someone help me find the right resistors as a replacement for the bulbs?
Nice idea, I didn't even think about that, I have ordered a set of 100 20A fuses and will get the resistors etc and just keep them on hand for when the issue inevitably reappears. Maybe it doesn'tNo need to match bulb resistance. You're trying to find s short somewhere, not a current blip that just barely exceeds 20-25 amps to blow the fuse. If you want to keep those bulb circuits complete for testing, use something huge like 10 megaohm.1 microamp or so of current draw won't affect your battery. That's how I'd tackle it if I decided that route.