Ebrake off, Rear Tire Locked Up (1 Viewer)

[NeverGiveUpYota]

So when we tired to roll my truck for the roofers the rear passenger tire wouldn't roll. It just dragged. I wire brushed and lubed the bellcrank and pulled up and down on the handle. I've not jacked it up yet and pulled the tire off.
When I swapped the 35's for 31's yesterday the drums are ugfugly and mud crusted.
Any good suggestions to free up the inner ebrake assembly without taking the drum off? Beat the s*** out of it with a sand mallet or BFH?
I DO plan to rebuild all that but just not this weekend.
I'll add pix in a few from my phone.
Thank you all.
Felicity

 

[Cruiserdrew]

Lubing the bellcrank won't do anything since the problem is inside. Might be just rust and crud. It is possible to free the e-brake adjuster through that slot in the backing plate near the brake slave cylinder (its just under it) but it takes 2 tiny screw drivers and more patience than most people have. If you really can't free it, it will be hard to free the drum to take it all apart. If it's been sitting awhile, maybe the corrosion has bonded the shoe to the drum. Bet it will break the brake loose if you drive slowly.

Assuming you have all the new brake hardware, you can grind the heads off the retaining pins on the backing plate, pry it apart, and totally rebuild. You're going to have to do that any way, so no big deal. Once done, you're set for 10 years.

 

[micruz60]

Try hammering the bellcrank lever arm such to release it, I have had to do that before.

 

[FJACS]

Hammer first. Failing that stick it in 4lo and drive the truck a few feet....then replace the parts you just broke

 

[Prairie Swamp]

Back the star wheel way off as Drew recommended - then pound away.

 

[60Works]

If the shoes are worn to metal, they may have rust bonded to the drum.

Previous advice to hammer on the bellcrank might work. Failing that, the suggestion to use 4 low might break it loose, though without lockers it will just spin the other wheel. Dive into loosening the internals and hope they aren't seized as well.

If you can't free it, you'll pay hell to get the drum off. You're at the stage of; 'how to break as few as possible of the cheapest parts' to achieve your goal.

 

[60Works]

If you need to move the truck, just let that tire drag. A few yards won't ruin it.

Around the block will.

 

[bottombracket]

Felicity,

Jack the rear end up and take both wheels off. Take the other brake drum off so you can see the exact orientation of the star wheel adjuster and the release catch. Using two small flat head screwdrivers you can see where you’ll have to position them in the cutout on the back of the backing plate to hold up the catch and spin the star wheel. Practice loosening it with the drum off. It’s not as hard as it seems.

 

[morganism]

Everytime i use my ebrake, i have to release the handle, then walk to the back, sling my leg under by the exhaust, and give the cable a good stretch to release the hung up ebrake cable at the plastic connector up by the tranny.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Got under it w/ ebrake off and started smacking around the bell crank and the backing plate w/ a 2lb brass hammer and suddenly it let loose.
Luckily to my cat like reflexes and I was on my feet and pulled the lever before it went more than a foot.
Thanks tho for all the suggestions, especially @FJACS, personally I liked that one best.

 

[TLC Norway]

take off the tension on the star wheel as mentioned. it has helped me to have a light sitting on the u-bolt area shining into the hole, and i use a small service mirror to get it on the first try.

then you can thread two M8 bolts into the drum between the wheel lugs to help it out. screw them in alternating for about 2 inches, while banging the drum, and your drum is free. voila!