We were doing a leak down test on a 47 Bell. Break time came and the newby plugs 150 psi shop air in to jug - well no one was holding the 4' cheater bar attached to the auxiliary drive. That bar put a heck of a dent in the hanger wall.
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For those of us who are extremely hardheaded and stubborn, installing a 4-speed in an early truck with the torque tube in place, the difficulty is compounded because the dang E-brake hub is so close to the torque tube. Even with the engine lowered in the back and shimmed in the front, it was a real battle. Ben: you made it look too easy.Click bait. There is no easy way to mate a 2F and a transmission. It's always a PIA, the hardest job on a LandCruiser, IMNSHO. I use a 4x4 from dash to tailgate and a lot of ratchet straps. Still not easy.
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Yeah, I normally just buy the tool. But I wanted to give it the old college try… next time it’ll be with a trans jack.Great video. Brings back painful memories.
My wife eventually got fed up after working the floor jack on a couple transmission installs.
I bought this a while back, I end up using it a couple times per year for various tasks. The micro height adjust is great.
Couldnt justify a nicer unit for how much I end up using it. Works on my 40 with 2.5" OME lift and 255/85R16s.
https://www.harborfreight.com/autom.../450-lb-low-lift-transmission-jack-61232.html
Oh I’m here for this wacky s***! That’s what I’m talking about brother!!!Click bait. There is no easy way to mate a 2F and a transmission. It's always a PIA, the hardest job on a LandCruiser, IMNSHO. I use a 4x4 from dash to tailgate and a lot of ratchet straps. Still not easy.
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There’s a lot of new FJ40 owners out there and it’s time for us seasoned pro mechanics to step up and start helping out. If you have a transmission and transfer case combo you want to install, and you don’t know how, follow along in this simple “how to” video and you too can complete this basic task.
With the Rubithon looming over me, I have to get more done before the end of June, which means I need to self motivate and get the H41 transmission and Orion transfer case installed. Luckily the weather lit a fire under my seat and we got the job done. For the most part.
It was helpful in our case to have some dowels to help line up the mounting holes. "if you can get a couple longer than stock(3-4"or so) Bell housing bolts from your local hardware or wherever and cut the heads off you'll have a sweet set of lineup dowels you can thread in the block by hand that can make aligning everything a little easier"I am at the 9:00 minute point now in this video, hoping any moment my trans will line up perfectly with the engine.
The trans face and the bellhousing face look perfectly parallel and it still won’t go in.
So frustrated.
Watching this makes me keep going.
Best line ever:
“Do you want me to lift or lower it.”
“I don’t know. Doesn’t matter”
You have to completely give up, before it goes in…I am at the 9:00 minute point now in this video, hoping any moment my trans will line up perfectly with the engine.
The trans face and the bellhousing face look perfectly parallel and it still won’t go in.
So frustrated.
Watching this makes me keep going.
Best line ever:
“Do you want me to lift or lower it.”
“I don’t know. Doesn’t matter”
Amen brother! I prayed over the car this morning.You have to completely give up, before it goes in…
I've experienced this as well with multiple clutch alignment tools for various makes of vehicle. I do what you do and manually center it to the middle of its travel in all directions.One thing I have noticed with clutch alignment tools that I now pay attention to. When I used old cutoff input shafts made of steel at the shop I worked at, I didn't have these problems. I started looking closer to see why.
I noticed that the plastic ones actually allow the clutch disc to drop down slightly before you tighten the clutch bolts. It seems to me the plastic flexes just enough to allow a slight misalignment. The weight of the clutch causes it sag Just enough to let you get it started but fight you the rest of the way.
I still use the plastic alignment tool because I've since retired and that's all I have now. No more access to expensive shop supplied tools. In MY personal opinion, It DOES help when I hold the end of the tool up and try to keep it as centered as I possibly can as I tighten the clutch mounting bolts.
I always use guide bolts and I always have a way to tilt and rotate the trans and raise or lower the back of the engine. And a way to rotate the crank or the trans so splines align. Once it lines up, it will slide in easy. NOT so if the disc slipped down even a little bit.
Oh, and I enjoy the hell out of your videos.
Scott in Az.
I switched to the H55F and split TC and retained the parking brake. I mounted mine to the bellhousing and the adapter on the block and put it all in at one time. But I had to cut the torque tube due to clearance. Debating on weather it will relocate it and weld back in.For those of us who are extremely hardheaded and stubborn, installing a 4-speed in an early truck with the torque tube in place, the difficulty is compounded because the dang E-brake hub is so close to the torque tube. Even with the engine lowered in the back and shimmed in the front, it was a real battle. Ben: you made it look too easy.
Outstanding buddy. Pray over everything. Doesn’t hurt.Amen brother! I prayed over the car this morning.
Found some studs that worked as guides. That was the ticket!
Note: I was stuck with exactly 1.5 inches to go. I thought the shaft had already engaged the clutch disc, but a little pressure on the back of trans while turning the fly wheel made it engage and move forward an inch. That left about 1/2 inch or less which was the pinion bearing. Could not push it in all the way, but it slowly moved in with some light gradual wrenching on the transmission to bellhousing bolts.
I was using zip ties on top to keep it from falling back as well.
My prayer was answered.
God is good.
Sorry to all of you with real problems.
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