E-Locker and Asco hubs for my '78
- Thread starter Fast Eddy
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- #5
Tools loaned from the Morgan Fletcher. Long-body Asco hubs from vtcruiser60. Long-spline chromo shaft from Mudrak. E-Locker 3rd from GovtMule in Alabama.
I never got a picture of the little plastic box with all the nuts and bolts in it. It was completely full. There are a lot of fasteners in a front end.
I never got a picture of the little plastic box with all the nuts and bolts in it. It was completely full. There are a lot of fasteners in a front end.
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- #8
Things are looking up from here. I still degreased and painted right up until the end though.
All the original hardware still has nice zinc plating. I did not lose a single bolt.
I kept track of which knuckle bearing went where and degreased them, but in the end I used new ones. The races had just a hint of a bump from always pointing forward.
All the original hardware still has nice zinc plating. I did not lose a single bolt.
I kept track of which knuckle bearing went where and degreased them, but in the end I used new ones. The races had just a hint of a bump from always pointing forward.
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- #9
This one bad rotor was like this when I bought it. I stuffed in a cheap set of Kragen pads and drove it for two years. Now I've got new Toyota rotors and semi-metallic pads, care of Cruiser Dan.
Apparently the Toyota springs were made by Mitsubishi. See the logos?
Apparently the Toyota springs were made by Mitsubishi. See the logos?
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- #11
The pics I saw on the net show a gasket with a more-rectangular cutout. They may have been for a minitruck conversion. This is the '80-series gasket. The original 3rd has two long studs. The conversion requires notching the housing and installing four longer studs.
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- #13
Springs sprayed with Rusto, position indicator that I broke 
, and the old and new shafts compared. Mudrak didn't think I'd ever break the shaft, so instead of buying a spare shaft, I bought a spare long birf.
, and the old and new shafts compared. Mudrak didn't think I'd ever break the shaft, so instead of buying a spare shaft, I bought a spare long birf.- Thread starter
- #14
I didn't take many pictures of it going back together. It was easier than the diagram makes it look. I put the top and bottom shims back where they came from and the tension came out perfect on both sides. As well, I followed the Toyota spec for torquing the wheel bearings and they came out perfect first time on both sides.
The diagram doesn't show any grease though...
The diagram doesn't show any grease though...
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TREs courtesy of Kurt at Cruiser Outfitters. They're on sale for $70.- Thread starter
- #16
I drove it to work today, but it's not completely done. Even though I eyeballed the flanges, I found out they're different, so I'm drilling the 1/4" steel laying on the ground with a hand drill. I've got one more to go.
The controller is done, but I need some connectors. It will be locking and unlocking tonight. I originally planned to have the in-cab light flash while locking and unlocking, but the bulb isn't enough to make the flasher flash, so I'm skipping that feature for now. The controller has leds for locking, unlocking and locked, as shown in the circuit, as well as a test switch you can use to lock at the controller under the hood. The big relay is for my driving lights. This was a clean place to put it and the two circuits share a fuse, hot power and ground for less owner-installed wiring.
Inside, I installed a 2nd hazard switch for lock and unlock. The "Fasten Belts" light comes on when it's locked.
That's it for now. We're going on a big trip tomorrow and I'll report back if it all works, or if I leave it on the side of the road somewhere.
The brakes kick ass for sure!
The controller is done, but I need some connectors. It will be locking and unlocking tonight. I originally planned to have the in-cab light flash while locking and unlocking, but the bulb isn't enough to make the flasher flash, so I'm skipping that feature for now. The controller has leds for locking, unlocking and locked, as shown in the circuit, as well as a test switch you can use to lock at the controller under the hood. The big relay is for my driving lights. This was a clean place to put it and the two circuits share a fuse, hot power and ground for less owner-installed wiring.
Inside, I installed a 2nd hazard switch for lock and unlock. The "Fasten Belts" light comes on when it's locked.
That's it for now. We're going on a big trip tomorrow and I'll report back if it all works, or if I leave it on the side of the road somewhere.
The brakes kick ass for sure!
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Nice work!
Yes, the mini-truck and 80-series FRONT e-locker have a different cutout for the actuator, it's more squared off.
You're not alone with busting that indicator switch, I've done the same thing. Very fragile part sticking out exposed of a very heavy diff, all it has to do is roll the wrong way and SNAP it's busted. I take them off ASAP now, don't reinstall till the diff is stuffed into the truck and can't roll around anymore. A new switch is about $60 IIRC.
Yes, the mini-truck and 80-series FRONT e-locker have a different cutout for the actuator, it's more squared off.
You're not alone with busting that indicator switch, I've done the same thing. Very fragile part sticking out exposed of a very heavy diff, all it has to do is roll the wrong way and SNAP it's busted. I take them off ASAP now, don't reinstall till the diff is stuffed into the truck and can't roll around anymore. A new switch is about $60 IIRC.
Looking good! I'll be starting something like that this fall and dreading it
Damn, dirty long body hub owner!
Damn, dirty long body hub owner!
yzftaco
Goofy-Goober
Nice work and write-up Ed!
Let us know how it works...
Cheers
Let us know how it works...
Cheers
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- #20
Mad props to The Toy Connection in Santa Clara for helping solve this issue. Thanks Jeff. If you're going to Rubithon, look for his badass '60s Yellow Toyota Stout with a flatbed, lockers and 37s...
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