E-Locker and Asco hubs for my '78

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Great write up Eddy, I hope you have a great time at Downiville and up at Rubithon if you go.

Wish I could get mine to act decent right now. Oh well, thats what summer is for.
 
Excellent writeup :cool:



Standard caveat... U-Bolts should really never be re-used. Not only do they stretch, but the threads are generally designed to "cut" into the nut thus no need for lockwashers or nylocks in an OE setup. Doubt you'd have a problem, can't say I've heard of one... but it always comes to mind :D
 
cruiseroutfit said:
U-Bolts should really never be re-used. Not only do they stretch, but the threads are generally designed to "cut" into the nut thus no need for lockwashers or nylocks in an OE setup. Doubt you'd have a problem, can't say I've heard of one... but it always comes to mind :D
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I've heard that before too, and it does always come to mind. My setup is OE and it does have lock washers. I don't see anything special about the threads. I've always reused them, since I was a kid. They seem just like any other bolt to me. If some ME wants to chime in and explain why, I suppose I'd buy new ones for, at least, the front.

What you mention about the threads is also mentioned on the CCOT u-bolt page: Land Cruiser U - Bolts Hmmm...
 
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Skillet said:
Nice, Eddy. Hopefully, this setup won't leave you stranded on Little Panoche. :grinpimp:

Wish I could get up to Rubithon to see it perform.

Are you bringing the cat?
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I drove it about 60 miles yesterday. Seems ok, including the rear LockRite that I reinstalled again. That takes some getting used to.

We're not running the whole Rubicon. If we go, we'll go in the Cadillac Hill side on Saturday for the party. Maybe next year after some rock protection.
 
Looking great! Yep 40 hours seems about right for this messy job...

If you want flashing LED indicators you can order them from Allied Electronics. I use the flashing RED/Blue/Green units for my alarms and in some kits like the Clutch Interlock bypass kit to let me know it is engaged.

Flashing LED
 
Coolerman said:
If you want flashing LED indicators you can order them from Allied Electronics.
Flashing LED
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One of the ones I used is a 12v flasher with the integral resistor. It ws $2 at the local Fry's, but no waiting and no shipping. Good site.
 
MANUCHAO said:
Really nice clean work done on that axle...
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Too bad the locker motor interferes with the oil pan. :crybaby:

I lowered the bump stops 1/2" after the last minor incident, and survived some medium-duty rock crawling at deer valley at the FJ45 run.

Unfortunately the dunes were too tempting at Pismo and a little jump pushed the locker motor into the oil pan. It's got a crack in the pan and a leak now.

I'm trying to decide what to do. I know Poser is thinking, "I told you so." :sigh:

Do not attempt this conversion without a lift. 2" might be enough with the bump stops lowered by at least 1". 4" lift would be much more comfortable. Spring over would be the bees knees.

I've always wanted to keep my rig stock. If I ever went spring over, I'd want ARBs (and a sugar daddy). I'm kinda thinking of going back to stock and getting another rig for locking, crawling, bending, etc.
 
Bret said:
The cable conversion is a bit lower profile if it's an option. Great write up and the axle looks great.
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Yeah, cable lockers are the best, except for the price tag. I've seen them go from $2000-3500:frown:

Unobtanium to say the least. Next time I do a strech stationed in Japan, I'm going to bring back 2 or 3 pairs:D
 
Great job. My hardest aspect was putting together the relay box. I used dpdt relays on track in a homemade aluminum box mounted where the stock speaker went. I received much appreciated help from Foxfab on the wiring of the relay box. I only have one led to indicate locked state operated by a momentary toggle.
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If you plan on rock crawling, I'd like to advise you to be very careful of the actuator. I cracked mine and had a super hard time getting a replacement. I had a beefy actuator skid plate made by IPOR to avoid future mishaps.
 
Speaking of cable lockers, has anyone messed around with the Cable Locker Conversions that Downey has on their site? For $260-ish, not a bad option to replace the electric motor if it fails or just want a cable option and don't have $3k.:meh: I'm gonna see of Downey has some better pics than what they have on their site, maybe they are smaller than the electric actuator and won't beat the oil pan.

I might just buy them for s***s and giggles and see how they turn out:grinpimp:

http://www.downeyoff-road.com/ChassisComponents/Lockers.html
 
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Blue77FJ40 said:
Great job. My hardest aspect was putting together the relay box.
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I'm pretty good with ee-leck-tronix, so that wasn't a big deal for me. I put my little box just inside the apron by the washer fluid and overflow bottles. It has locking and unlocking leds on it in addition to the locked indicator. I like to keep the user-installed wiring to a minimum. There's just one stereo speaker wire going from there inside for both the switch and the indicator light.

Blue77FJ40 said:
If you plan on rock crawling, I'd like to advise you to be very careful of the actuator. I cracked mine and had a super hard time getting a replacement. I had a beefy actuator skid plate made by IPOR to avoid future mishaps.
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There are so many reasons why an ARB locker is a superior solution...
 
phrogg4evr said:
Speaking of cable lockers, has anyone messed around with the Cable Locker Conversions that Downey has on their site? For $260-ish, not a bad option to replace the electric motor if it fails or just want a cable option and don't have $3k.:meh:

http://www.downeyoff-road.com/ChassisComponents/Lockers.html
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Yes, I bought their kit a few years ago, didn't like the design and wound up trading new in the box even for a used actuator. The stock cable design is attached to a lever inside the cab that you pull into a locked position and release when done. The downey cable would have you push on a t-handle until locker engages, then the handle is twisted into the locked position on the cable until you untwist the handle to release it. Opposite of the stock operation.

Their design prodded me into dealing with the electrical operation. YMMV
 
Blue77FJ40 said:
Yes, I bought their kit a few years ago, didn't like the design and wound up trading new in the box even for a used actuator. The stock cable design is attached to a lever inside the cab that you pull into a locked position and release when done. The downey cable would have you push on a t-handle until locker engages, then the handle is twisted into the locked position on the cable until you untwist the handle to release it. Opposite of the stock operation.

Their design prodded me into dealing with the electrical operation. YMMV
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Thanks for the FYI. I had cable lockers on my 70 in Japan, and loved them to friggin death.

I think my electric actuators are still in pretty good shape and work with no hitches, sounds like Downey should reverse their design and it could rule:meh: Maybe I'll do it on the front end for pan clearance, and I won't use the front locker as much
 
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Fast Eddy said:
This recent discussion has me thinking I should take mine apart, learn how to unlock it with a tire iron or something, and carry a plate to cover the hole, just in case of trail damage.
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As a matter of fact, I have mine torn apart right now learning how they work, I'll post up a coupe pics for you:)

All you'd really have to do is remove the cover plate that your position indicator (3 12mm bolts) and that allows you to access where the fork attaches to the drive shaft out of the motor ( 1 10mm bolt). Once you loosen the bolt from the actuator shaft, you could move the fork and re-tighten the bolt where it's at and see if the fork and gear has moved enough to disengage the locker and you'd be temporarily back in business, at least to get off the trail.

DSC_0197.webp
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