^ this reminds me of a saying in these parts: "let's do something ... even if its wrong".
E brakes full of oil? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter mmaakk
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Well considering my 6 year old is the one who pointed out to me that mommies rear wheel is covered in oil, I think it's prudent to fix it the right way. Apparently it has been leaking for quite some time. I do plan on keeping this vehicle for the long haul and slapping a turbo on it eventually.
When a guy like Spressomon takes the time to lay out his EXPERIENCE with this repair and patiently points out there is no quick fix one should just listen. It is not much different than replacing a water pump and re using a T belt with 85k on it. If the price tag on the repair scares you park it a while or do all the work yourself. It will only get more expensive driving on it. Last thing you want to add to this is an axle shaft because the failed bearing seized due to improper lubrication with gear oil.
It's depressing that Toyota changed from the maintenance friendly design of the 80 series to this nightmare. Has anyone priced a double rear axle bearing R&R at a dealership? Any chance that there will be FF conversion options in the foreseeable future?
Almost makes me wish I bought a pristine '97 instead of a 100 series.
Almost makes me wish I bought a pristine '97 instead of a 100 series.
Once the oil gets pas the seal the bearing must be replaced. I've been down this road too and while the bearing is very robust it's expensive to replace.
Would something like this be workable on the 100?
Full Float Housing Ends
The site lists full float conversions for 00-06 Tundra and custom sizes are available.
Would something like this be workable on the 100?
Full Float Housing Ends
The site lists full float conversions for 00-06 Tundra and custom sizes are available.
^ I spoke to Brian (Front Range/Diamond) last summer and for a complete rear FF axle system based on Dana 60 outers and with the 3rd it was $6k plus install. Basically the same FF '07+ Tundra system he is/has developed (but with 9-1/2" 3rd versus Tundra). I don't think ABS carried forward but I could be wrong on that point.
Subtract out the ARB locker/3rd and its still a chunk o'change. Personally I wouldn't, given my GVW and usage application, want to go through all the hassle and cost for Toyota outers (80-Series axle diameter). You'd save a couple bucks but why not just be done with it with D60 and larger axles.
FWIW the progression for North America, especially USA bound, Landcruisers is comfort, electronic-wizardry that disconnects the driver and extended service intervals. Under normal soccer mom type use the rear semi-float system is probably good for 300k miles and maybe the life of the rig. Ad nauseam: We are NOT Toyota's target audience
Subtract out the ARB locker/3rd and its still a chunk o'change. Personally I wouldn't, given my GVW and usage application, want to go through all the hassle and cost for Toyota outers (80-Series axle diameter). You'd save a couple bucks but why not just be done with it with D60 and larger axles.
FWIW the progression for North America, especially USA bound, Landcruisers is comfort, electronic-wizardry that disconnects the driver and extended service intervals. Under normal soccer mom type use the rear semi-float system is probably good for 300k miles and maybe the life of the rig. Ad nauseam: We are NOT Toyota's target audience
Probably looking at $600-$800 per side to have the SF axle rebuilt at a dealer assuming you remove the axle yourself and take it in. I think the last one I did was just under $700 complete. They give you a 1-year 12k mile warranty on the work ... which I had to exercise once (American Toyota, ABQ).
2001LC
SILVER Star
I'd add, a well maintained DD 100 series would be one to last a life time. Are lots of off road builds/use showing leaky rears diff axle seals?
Some off road builds experience rear axle leaking issues. I'm unsure if its pressure build up related (I went to 1/2" ID line and diff fitting with no flat runs; that solved some of my issues) and/or exceeding the capacity of the diff housing/SF system (guilty from a GVW and also former aggressive off road driving style).
All things Utah with big torsional loads on the rear axle almost always seem to result in leakage post trip. But the jury is still out what is the bona fide cause.
aggressive off road driving style). All things Utah with big torsional loads on the rear axle almost always seem to result in leakage post trip. But the jury is still out what is the bona fide cause.
2001LC
SILVER Star
1/2" breather tube reducing issue is certainly a big clue. Exceeding fluid cap. would certain too have consequences. Is it also common to run above 90W?
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2001LC
SILVER Star
Spacer, offset of wheels along with oversized tires would add force too bearings, no doubt.
Can you share with me what glue you used? I think i'll do that part the first time when I do this friday.
Not what you would come up with off the top of your head.
3902 3M Weatherstrip Adhesive (Black)
This stuff is really tough so hope I don't have to replace that seal again as will be fun to clean old seal out. Has held for a long time now.
Awesome, thanks. I need to apply this stuff at the time the shop is pressing in the new seal right?
Yes, they had it all apart, I put glue on bearing case flange and put seal in right away, do not wait for it to get tacky. This outer seal has rubber surface inside and out so did not need a press just a HF seal driver. Then they pressed everything together.
Got it now, thanks
RTH: I'm putting everything back together now. When i slide the axle into the rear diff and into the mouting plate should i expect the studs and nuts to pull the axle the rest of the way into the axle housing? Slides into the studs but lacks about 1/8" from butting up. Thanks!
Each time I reassembled my rear axles they went 'home' without issue or resistance and did not rely on tightening the mounting nuts to pull it 'home'. You could try 'walking' the axle in with the mounting nuts as long as you didn't apply too much torque ... otherwise there must be an issue.
Thanks spressomon. I walked it home with relative ease. Torqued all the bolts down and it looks good. Axle moves like i would expect. I suspect i might have not gotten the inner oil seal fully seated. Oh well it is seated fully now!
