e-brak won't disengage

[brian]

skip the drink , and jump to the heat.
5 minutes with a low flame and the pin was on the floor. buffed teh pivot on a wirewheel and the greased the wee out of it...G2G.
the bell crank housing is alum/white metal, so use some caution.

 

[Devils Paw 80]

results after wiping with a paper towel and did manage to get it off with a screw driver afterwards.

Oh and that stuff is not dirt.
View attachment 225840
View attachment 225841
now i'm going to soak the whole thing cause now I can't get the other pin out.
View attachment 225842

I do reuse the stuff alot

You mean the pin that appears to go through the rubber piece, right? That arm must be able to pivot, I would think. Everything else is working OK on mine now, except for this. I haven't looked at it in a couple days, but it seems that this pin wasn't visible on mine because it was covered by the gasket-or whatever it's called.

 

[DustyFJ]

Bell crank blues FJ-62

This was my fist time changing drum brakes, I took some pictures beforehand like I saw here on mud and had at it. While I was under there I hooked up the brake cable that had been unhooked when the PO started the soa. I had the same problem with the bell crank arm being totally seized up. I went and got a torch from homie depot and used heat to free up the pin. The first one worked fine. I cleaned the surfaces and put it back together no problem. But just as the pin was about to come out of the second housing, CRACK! I split the housing in two.

1. Did I apply heat incorrectly? Not evenly, too much?

2. Whats the best way to go about finding a replacement for such an odd ball part?

 

[DustyFJ]

It occured to me that I might be able to weld this up but a magnet doesnt stick to it. Is it aluminum? I dont have a tig, or any experience welding aluminum. Should I try to find a buddy who can weld it up?

 

[brian]

iirc it's a white metal. welding would likly not work.
best bet is hit the classifieds and find some one parting one out.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Could frozen bell cranks cause the e-brake to not engage as well? I just put new actuator cables in my drums along with new wheel cylinders and it still won't work.

LandCruiser1988, on your SOA rig, how did you mount the e-brake cable? I made an extention bracket but I just did it by feel. I didn't make it to any specific length.

 

[DustyFJ]

Could frozen bell cranks cause the e-brake to not engage as well?


how did you mount the e-brake cable? I made an extention bracket but I just did it by feel. I didn't make it to any specific length.

Yes, mine had seized up in the open position.


I havent solved this problem yet. I had a hard time finding pictures of solutions here on mud. post a pic of your set up, so I can get an idea what direction I need to go.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Yes, mine had seized up in the open position.


I havent solved this problem yet. I had a hard time finding pictures of solutions here on mud. post a pic of your set up, so I can get an idea what direction I need to go.

I'll post up a pic when I can take one, probably tomorrow. All it is is a plate that puts the bolt holes for the axle end bracket about 3" farther forward. I don't know if it'll work though because my e-brake still doesn't work.

I'll crawl underneath and take another look tomorrow when it's not storming outside.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

So here's what I did, but I don't know if it's right. I set it up so the bracket pulls forward on the brake cable, as shown. I thought that was right because it pulled on the cable forward to allow it to fully release. I also bent the axle bracket for the rotating part of the brake cable up so it was more level, but I also don't know if that's right. Also, I haven't cleaned out my adjusters, but I have operated them manually the last time I had my drums open. Just replaced the actuator cables with brand new Toyota ones so I'm at a loss as to why my e-brakes don't work. Any help?

 

[DustyFJ]

Also, I haven't cleaned out my adjusters, but I have operated them manually the last time I had my drums open.

By "adjusters" do you mean the wheel that spins in and out to move the shoes close to the drum? or the bell cramk arm behind the drum assembly?

Inside the drum thres an 8" or so piece of brake cable that goes from the bell crank to... I can rember where, but it sits in an akward little track. Maybe its missing damaged or bound up.

Thanks for the pic of the bracket you made. Ill have to fab somethiong similar.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

By "adjusters" do you mean the wheel that spins in and out to move the shoes close to the drum? or the bell cramk arm behind the drum assembly?

Inside the drum thres an 8" or so piece of brake cable that goes from the bell crank to... I can rember where, but it sits in an akward little track. Maybe its missing damaged or bound up.

Thanks for the pic of the bracket you made. Ill have to fab somethiong similar.

Adjusters are the ratcheting wheel that moves out to adjust the brake shoes closer to the drums, yes. By actuator cables I meant those 8" cables, I just replaced them and installed them correctly, I'm sure of it. The washers are in the grooves of the track and everything.

I've gotta dick with it some more. I don't know why but it doesn't work. I thought I've fixed everything. It's frustrating.