DuraTracs getting chewed by UCA

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No kidding! I'm reluctant to drive it at all, but luckily there is a pretty decent Indy Toyota shop a few miles away that does alignments. I'm really hoping that solves the problem...but wouldn't lifting the front via the torsion bars actually have the opposite effect on camber? Due to the arc of the suspension I would expect positive camber (tops further out) as opposed to negative camber like this...but I'm not anywhere close to even being terribly knowledgeable about this stuff.

Even after solving the clearance issue, what I'm really worried about is the integrity of the passenger side tire. I'm thinking that maybe it should be relegated to the spare tire location until I can afford to replace it. The groove isn't that deep but it still makes me a little nervous being a primary tire. I will probably pull it and have the crew at discount take a look at it.
 
Interesting! I've only seen, and have, the type on the right...with the recess.

Lots of little differences on our supposed "same" rigs...

There are two different manufacturers of the 16" wheels.
Disc Wheel & Wheel Cap 1 of 3.webp
Disc Wheel & Wheel Cap 1 of 3.webp
 
Have you checked for play in the front wheel bearings recently? My 315 cooper STT's never rubbed there and I've only just started using spacers with them and have OEM UCAs.

Interesting about the wheel recess difference, the ones I've been able to check in the UK in the last few weeks since I noticed this have all been the design on the left with no recess.
 
Have you checked for play in the front wheel bearings recently?

Nope, I sure haven't but I've been planning on doing a bearing repack and pulling the CVs while I'm at it to clean them up. The outers are leaking quite a bit. I suppose now would be as good a time as any to check for play and address any other problems with the front end.

Given the fact that so many others running 305s and 315s have no issues, something else is definitely amiss here. I'll keep everyone posted.
 
No kidding! I'm reluctant to drive it at all, but luckily there is a pretty decent Indy Toyota shop a few miles away that does alignments. I'm really hoping that solves the problem...but wouldn't lifting the front via the torsion bars actually have the opposite effect on camber? Due to the arc of the suspension I would expect positive camber (tops further out) as opposed to negative camber like this...but I'm not anywhere close to even being terribly knowledgeable about this stuff.

Even after solving the clearance issue, what I'm really worried about is the integrity of the passenger side tire. I'm thinking that maybe it should be relegated to the spare tire location until I can afford to replace it. The groove isn't that deep but it still makes me a little nervous being a primary tire. I will probably pull it and have the crew at discount take a look at it.


You'll get a little negative camber at full droop. I'm not sure where in its arc it starts going negative. Probably not your issue but something to check just the same.

Your symptom is the reason that drove me to 285mm width (on 35"). I ran the spacer adapters but for tight switchback trails I didn't like the scrub radius effect. But there's always going to be compromise...just need to figure out which one you can live with ;)
 
Even after solving the clearance issue, what I'm really worried about is the integrity of the passenger side tire. I'm thinking that maybe it should be relegated to the spare tire location until I can afford to replace it. The groove isn't that deep but it still makes me a little nervous being a primary tire.

That tire is toast. I wouldn't trust it for more than a tire swing at this point. Stick the new one on a credit card. A blow out will do a lot more damage than the couple hundred a new tire costs.
 
I would replace it. That does suck. Didn't you get into a accident on the passenger side? Any tire damage on the accident that may of transferred into the passenger suspension? I'm not sure why it would make a difference on the driver side though. I bet the DT is just a very wide 305.
 
I've got a full size spare so replacing it in the short term isn't an issue. I just need to figure out WTF happened and fix it before the new one goes on. And yes, I did get into an accident on the passenger side, but it was low speed and the fender absorbed most of the impact. I wonder if that really jacked something up that wasn't seen by the adjuster and/or body shop guys...
 
Well, the saga continues. Alignment done yesterday, had no effect on the situation.

Furthermore, I checked the other two tires a couple weeks back, and this issue apparently started as soon as the tires went on the truck. I've been through one rotation so far, so all four tires have a groove worn in them. I am more than a little upset at myself for not catching this sooner, but I really didn't expect this issue with a 305 tire since most people have no issues running them in other flavors. :doh: :mad:

Note to fellow mud members: you cannot run 305 duratracs without wheel spacers, which I am about to order.
 
Note to fellow mud members: you cannot run 305 duratracs without wheel spacers, which I am about to order.

Is this the consensus then? Where are you getting your spacers from?

I will be considering tires soon and this issue of yours both puzzles and bothers me. Last thing i want is to spend 1400 on tires and find that i will need spacers or worse yet, they just won't fit.
 
I'm a bit surprised, given the attention to detail our local Discount Tire store normally exhibits on our vehicles, they didn't catch the interference issue. Especially given the non-stock size. As you mentioned maybe DT will have mercy on you and give you a one-time deal. We can only hope!
 
It's the consensus as far as I'm concerned. I'd like to hear from anyone else running the DT's in 305 70 16, just to confirm...but nothing else is damaged or otherwise grossly out of spec on my truck, and with so many others running 305's and even some 315s with no spacers required, I'm only left with the tire itself as the problem area.

I'm getting the spacers used from another member, but they are Slee 1" spacers. This is a temporary solution until the tires are replaced. I love the duratracs, but I also like running 305's. The size or the tire will have to change, not sure which yet. Thats a while down the road, as I can't afford to replace them right now.

And yes, it does suck. These tires are brand spankin new, still have the little nubs on the sidewalls. I feel like I tossed that money in the garbage can.
 
what about new UCAs as a permanent solution if you do not want to keep the wheel spacers on?
 
I think you will like the spacers as long as you put them on carefully to ensure that they are centered. I got all OCD installing mine and they have not thrown off the ride one bit. Slee's are the ones supplied by JT's (an what I have). They are a very well made product and the machining looks like it was done for NASA. I don't understand why spacers get a bad rap in the 100 section. Maybe people are referencing the cheaply made ones you can find on eBay.

As a side point, I installed mine purely out of functional need. Now that I look at the vehicle head-on, I notice that you can really see the difference in track width. It looks very cool having the outer edge of the tire aligned perfectly with the edge of the front bumper!
 
I don't understand why spacers get a bad rap in the 100 section.

It's not just the 100 section. Wheel spacers are illegal for use a lot of places. Most of the time what people use are just spacers that take up more space on the OEM lug, leaving fewer threads holding the wheel on. The ones that bolt to the studs and have their own studs are better, but there's still some risk if things aren't tightened properly or the spacers are poor quality.
 
It's not just the 100 section. Wheel spacers are illegal for use a lot of places. Most of the time what people use are just spacers that take up more space on the OEM lug, leaving fewer threads holding the wheel on. The ones that bolt to the studs and have their own studs are better, but there's still some risk if things aren't tightened properly or the spacers are poor quality.

Thanks Corey! I am new to most of this stuff but it appears that the 100 owners know where all the high-quality parts are. So for clarification, if we are purchasing spacers from Just Differentials or Slee, we are getting a product that addresses the commonly found and discussed negative properties of a typical wheel spacer? After all these have their own lugs, high grade hardware, self-centering lugs, high quality aluminum spacer material, and ultra tight tolerances.
 
Wheel spacers are not much different than most of the items we research, lay down our hard earned money, install and use. Very similar to recovery gear I'd want good quality components, exact/precise machining from a reputable supplier/mfg. Then I'd ensure I hold up my end of the dealio by installing them properly and regularly checking the mounting and wheel nut torque until I felt comfortable they stay consistently tight.

Some have argued wheel spacers can induce or accelerate wheel bearing wear. With 1"-1.5" wheel spacers on our rigs that theory has never been proven nor my experience from using same. With our 60mm offset wheels its IMHO not going to make much if any difference to our hub/wheel bearings.

The only negative I felt with the 1" wheel spacers I ran up front was from the additional track width and scrub radius effect on tight/narrow switch back trails where I wanted the minimum steering radius and accurate turning.

But they did lend more stability at highway speeds on my ~2.5" raised front end along with 1" more clearance for my then 315/75R16 GY MTR tires.
 
Does anyone know why wheel spacers for the 100 are about $90 more than those for a tacoma or an FJ which are 6x5.5? Is it supply/demand? I don't see many manufacturers making these for the 100. Also, when installing these spacers, pfran noted about making sure the spacer was centered... Are these spacers not hub-centric? Is that why? Do they not line up centered?
 

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