Durabak-ed my 80 this weekend
- Thread starter MaddBaggins
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MaddBaggins
Remember the KnightRider!
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- #42
Brentbba said:
Yep! first layer was elec tape, then 2 layers of masking tape on top of it. I pulled the first layer of masking tape at night while the stuff was still a little tacky. The next morning I did a little touch up then pulled the masking tape and elec tape as one. The elec tape did a good job peeling a nice line. You have to get close to notice any rough edge, but the lines are clean and straight.
The ACE I went to didn't have wire tape so I went for it without.
it is different
NorCalDoug said:Not picking on you...but why do so many people think this stuff is so heavy? It's essentially a millimeter or two (depending on how much you lather on of PLASTIC. It's not like you're coating the rig with lead weights...
sure, it's heavier than plain ol' paint...but how much? really, can it be all that heavy?
Somewhere on one of the durabak sites (there are two-one out of CO Durabakbedliner.com. one out of FL durabak.com), it lists the weight as 10lbs for a gallon. here....
http://www.durabakbedliner.com/productinfo.htm
I bet that's the wet weight too. Two gallons, 20lbs, evenly coated over the whole vehicle, is not going to cause a bit of problems.
Don't have to worry about the black being hot in the summer either, just get sand, or white, or grey.... I did blue.....
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MaddBaggins
Remember the KnightRider!
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- #45
Junk said:
Coming from you Junk, I'll take that as a compliment
with all this talk about a durabaked vehicle being really hot, what would be the difference between a black durabaked 80 and a black or dark green painted 80. is it the color that makes it hot or does the durabak actually insulated the car more? could be a benefit in northern climates. with cruisers and yours i enjoy seeing the different lines people are taking in lining their cars,looks good i like the tailgate being covered.
ryanjl
SILVER Star
Jerome3 said:
Even the "gloss" durabak isn't as glossy as paint, and with the rough textured version would reflect even less light.
Less light reflection (flatter coating) = greater heat.
I'd also venture to guess that the metal hood would conduct heat into the atmosphere better without the durabak, which may insulate the heat more.
96LX450 said:
Only real problem was with the tail lights. With them mounted in the body like that, and the body being coated in rubber - no good ground. Ran a couple of ground wires from the frame to the lights, no more problem. Wouldn't have been a problem with the stock tailights.
I sprayed mine, and if I had to do it over I might have rolled it. I also should have waited longer between coats, but I was paranoid about it setting up. See, since it cures with air, as soon as it's exposed to air it starts curring. The bad part about that is you can't use half a gallon today, and then come back and use the rest of the gallon tomorrow. You can get it in quarts, but 4 quarts is about $40 more than one gallon. I know, I have a couple of quarts on the way to do the ambulance doors.
If I was doing an 80 I would definately roll it, or it would take a lot more prep work. I oversprayed into my interrior a little bit, but all that means with the 40 is that I get to repaint the roll cage (which needed to be done anyway). It really gets everywhere spraying it. In your nose, hair, on the driveway, the garage door opener you left on top of the tarp covering the driveway, and don't even ask about the neighbors blue cat.
I'll do better next time. I figure my 3rd or 4th Durabaked vehicle will look really sweet. You can't key it, and if anyone door dings my truck, their door will be worse for the encounter.
One thing I wish I hadn't done was take as much time straightening out and smoothing the body. It covers up a multitude of sins - next time I'll leave the sins.
At some point I figure my LX will be Durabaked. It just makes so much sense for an off road vehicle. I can't see spending $800-$1500 on a good professional paint job on a rig I would scratch. I don't have the skills or equipment to paint it myself. I've seen other 40's professionally rhino lined. And I think if I added another coat with a roller, it'd be just as good, and about 1/4 or less of the cost.
shocker said:
On the plus side, flatter coating will radiate heat better.
In 100 degree days in Tulsa, my body was never hot to the touch.... I mean my cruisers body....
Curious... does this stuff also absorb radar and laser 
Walking Eagle said:
I agree, spraying it on is way more work. Unfortunately I already had my supplies before I arrived to this conclusion.
When I do the side of my rig, I will roll it on.
MaddBaggins
Remember the KnightRider!
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- #53
gbell210 said:Curious... does this stuff also absorb radar and laser
LOL! My rig is now in stealth mode
Cube Dweller
Moderator
I really like it. This thread has convinced me to do the bottom half of the runner. Color availability and suggestions for a black 4runner? I'm thinking some contrast would be nice.
Cube Dweller said:
Thats what my
said, "Why don't you paint it grey it would look much prettier, and you'll have a little contrast" I told her, black is fine I don't need no stinking contrast.
Pictures
Here are a couple of pics of Robin Hood's bed-lined 80. It was a blck truck that he covered in black bedliner (professional application)
Only a couple of these pics are of his 80, the first is from the back with the red lettering on the wind deflector, the second is a head-on view.
http://www.webglue.com/cfco/
Here are a couple of pics of Robin Hood's bed-lined 80. It was a blck truck that he covered in black bedliner (professional application)
Only a couple of these pics are of his 80, the first is from the back with the red lettering on the wind deflector, the second is a head-on view.
http://www.webglue.com/cfco/
Alvin: Sinch my Sutherland body damage, I'm keeping the LX450 and will keep improving it. I want to rip all the Lexus body panels off ASAP and line the exterior. Any advice/intructions on how to remove all the crap? I'd appreciate it.
jfz80
Cruisin’
diggin deep in the archives are we? heres another LX partially lined https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=158956
the prepwork is most the effort/time involved in the process.
heres another LX partially lined https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=158956the prepwork is most the effort/time involved in the process.
diggin deep in the archives are we?
the prepwork is most the effort/time involved in the process.
Cody's! Of course. I wonder why that didn't come on search for me. THANKS!
Everyone says that they regret "over prepping" because this stuff hides flaws so well, would ya'll just sand this down and roll over it with the Durabak?
