Durabak-ed my 80 this weekend

[sseaman]

looks like the rust needs to be sanded down to stop it spreading

 

[bosljeff]

Yeah, I was just going to get rid of those bubbles and sand the rust off down to the good stuff

 

[gray]

After you sand it, you need to stop the rust on the inside from coming back by using something like Rust Mort (SEM)sold at autobody supply stores, or Silver Bullet, POR-15, or even the Permatex rust convertor (NAPA) which you brush on. You will have holes underneath those bubbles for sure once you sand it down properly; so get ready to patch it; metal is best, but if you can't do that, bondo will work for awhile in a small hole if you are on a budget, once the rust is killed, inside and on the backside of the panel you can see. Any clean bare metal needs to have self-etching primer sprayed on it before your final coat IMO. The product your using may hide flaws, but it is not a replacement for metal. If you don't kill the rust, it will just continue to spread and then your Durabak will just fall off or push in.

 

[LostNtheWoods]

Would it be kinda heavy?

It's a 3 ton tank! I dont think it matters!

 

[MaddBaggins]

Needed to log in and revive this old thread. After 16 years in the Arizona sun, the Durabak really needs a touch up. I had to dig up my old thread to find out how much I used the first time so I can order the right amount. Looks like I should be able to lay down a good recoat with 1 gallon. The clear coat is shot after all these years but she still runs like a top and everything works. Some new Durabak, repaint the bumpers and buff the paint a little and she'll look alright.

 

[Brentbba]

I've recoated the durabak on my flares too.